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petrol tank. -
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I have an old petrol tank that is part of my on-going restoration, it has been unused for twenty years but was stored with a couple of gallons of petrol in it for about ten years. I recently cleaned the outside of it and it did seem to be in good order. My question is, does any one have an idea whether or not it will usable? Perhaps there are magical things on the market that can be poured into it to give it a coating that will make it usable. I really don't have a clue, but I bet one of you clever chaps out there will have the answer. I suppose I am just trying to avoid the expense of a new tank - that is if they are available. Tank you very much in anticipation
hi paul ,FROSTS do a tank sealant as do others that pours into the tank then is sloshed about to cover internaly all surfaces .others have used this to good result .stagdad (steve) has done this with his tank ,although he had a novel way of cleaning it first .he may be along to explain .meanwhile google frosts restoration and see what they offer.
steve
Beautiful early mk1 white tv8 mod? MGB GT and now looking for another V8
Hi Paul
The answer is yes there are several petrol different tank sealers, from what I understand you just pour them in....Frost's have it listed on there website.
My only concern is when the E10 fuel comes into use how it will react, reports seem to suggest that it reacts/melts sealers and other products.
Roger
1974 ZF Gearbox, Minilite Wheels, Electric Water Pump, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Central Locking & Window Closing
Details of the Frosts sealer can be found here (it's available in different sizes). It claims to be OK for use with alcohol additives according to their blurb. They have a technical article on restoring fuel tanks here.
Hi Paul, just a quick word of advice, the FBHVC are in the process of testing the E 10 addatives, the results will be out shortly, well worth the short wait. When unleaded was forced on us, they ran tests on lead substitutes, and came up with a definitive list of the products that passed, a lot were not even submitted for testing, including a couple of big names. I really would hang on mate, if you install anything dodgy, it will gum up the entire system and be a nightmare to clean. Martin.
As long as the tank is spotlessly clean inside and not full of holes you should be fine.
I put a new tank in mine last year and just bunged it in and filled it up. I was going to buy the POR 15 tank sealer to 'future proof' the tank against Ethanol, but I didn't get around to it! I would say it is a sensible solution, but I wouldn't loose sleep over it. Just keep an eye on the condition of any pipes and rubber bits and replace them if they start showing signs of decay.
As long as the tank is spotlessly clean inside and not full of holes you should be fine.
I put a new tank in mine last year and just bunged it in and filled it up. I was going to buy the POR 15 tank sealer to 'future proof' the tank against Ethanol, but I didn't get around to it! I would say it is a sensible solution, but I wouldn't loose sleep over it. Just keep an eye on the condition of any pipes and rubber bits and replace them if they start showing signs of decay.
Rgds
Dave
I'm with Dave here, if the tank looks sound, i.e. no pepper pot holing, then fit as is, any crud inside can be dealt with by a simple filter between the tank and the pump, the washable glass one is a good option. The potential problem here, is sealant dissolving into the fuel then gumming up somewhere further down the line, if you can manage without, that's definitely the way to go. Later, when the FBHVC results are out, you can always think again. Martin.
I would think that it is almost inevitable that your tank has internal corrosion.
Having a filter between it and the pump (cleanable or or throw away as they are less than £5) will let you keep an eye on it and replace / clean out as necessary - you may be doing it more regularly than you imagine.
However even with a filter, if the tank has a lot of muck some WILL get through so expect some carb issues.
Last edited by Guest; 24 January 2012, 23:58.
Reason: Spelling!
I would think that it is almost inevitable that your tank has internal corrosion.
Having a filter between it and the pump (cleanable or or throw away as they are less than £5) will let you keep an eye on it and replace / clean out as necessary - you may be doing it more regularly than you imagine.
However even with a filter, if the tank has a lot of muck some WILL get through so expect some carb issues.
The pre-pump filter, prevents crud from blocking the pump valves, the paper filter under the bonnet, hopefully not one of the cheap ones, will gather any bits that might effect the needle valves. Worth noting, if the filter starts to discolour, i.e. orange to brown, change it, irrespective of the mileage. At all costs, avoid the cheap ones, the paper breaks up and blocks itself, and the needle valves. Once again, you get what you pay for. Martin.
The pre-pump filter, prevents crud from blocking the pump valves, the paper filter under the bonnet, hopefully not one of the cheap ones, will gather any bits that might effect the needle valves. Worth noting, if the filter starts to discolour, i.e. orange to brown, change it, irrespective of the mileage. At all costs, avoid the cheap ones, the paper breaks up and blocks itself, and the needle valves. Once again, you get what you pay for. Martin.
You all probably remember that my car was stationary for 8-9 years before I bought it and I have found to my cost that the tank, which looks spotless externally, if full of flaking rust and muck internally. "To my cost" is because, after using if for about 5k miles so far and replacing filters twice, I have a blockage somewhere in the carb as we speak. so know that even good filters won't stop it all. I also have a new petrol tank and that's going into the car this week so , hopefully, the problem once sorted wont return.
Hiya, good luck with the tank change, hope it solves any probs. However, a nine year lay up is a bit extreme. One solution to that particular problem, is to remove the pickup pipe, and the fuel gauge sender, pour a packet of ball bearings into it, then shake like hell for as long as you can manage, pour them out then flush, it's astonishing how much muck comes out. Martin.
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