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    Old Engineers Tricks

    In one of the threads currently running, a member raised a call for a compendium of tips and solutions that would help members work their way out of some insurmountable mechanical problem they were facing.

    We have cars that are getting on a bit and some components which have gone past their useful service life just don't want to be dislodged. The 'book' method doesn't help any more as the component has become too stubborn with age and alternate methods have to be used to effect the repair. I'm thinking, for instance, about removal of seized cylinder head studs, water pump bushes, ball joints, rubber bushes, caliper pistons, macpherson struts removal, seized nut/bolt in aluminium and so on. This isn't about the uninstalling and re-installing of components which in themselves are tricky, but tips on how to deal with the part that simply won't disassemble or is really difficult to reassemble. By the nature of this subject, all sorts of practices never envisaged by the workshop manual etc. will be required, so we'd have to bear in mind that suggestions would be best limited to 'Old Engineers Tricks' lest there is much danger and the ugly liability monster rears its head in our midst.

    Some subject areas can be answered by simply appending the URL which points to the relevant article amongst our postings, but others may require a description of something you have done which has solved an otherwise insurmountable problem (an old engineers trick) which serves a purpose on the Stag very well.

    If there is enough content, it could be a valuable help to an enthusiast who hasn't met a particular problem before and desperately needs some 'ready reference' pointers and tips that he can try before opening a thread. If you're willing to contribute to this thread, I'm happy to cobble responses into a submission for the 'How To' section, probably indexed alphabetically by the main component. Even an URL that points to a suitable subject will do, but I'll edit the 'chaff' out.

    To set the ball rolling, I'll have a go at the Ball Joint Removal subject I suggested above, as they can be pretty stubborn so-and-so's. Any other takers?

    With best wishes,
    Duncan, Skye



    #2
    For stubborn ball joints, I use a three finger taper breaker, wind it down tight, then whack the single finger, between the pressure and the shock they invariably co-operate

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Duncan Skye View Post
      To set the ball rolling, I'll have a go at the Ball Joint Removal subject I suggested above, as they can be pretty stubborn so-and-so's. Any other takers?

      With best wishes,
      Duncan, Skye


      Agreed often a 'Google' can come up with some priceless tips. However give you a tip, don't google 'Bush Removal' !!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by martin View Post
        For stubborn ball joints, I use a three finger taper breaker, wind it down tight, then whack the single finger, between the pressure and the shock they invariably co-operate
        Thanks Martin, that's a good start to kick it all off with. I might add a bit to that as well, mentioning the web site for replaceable rubber gaiters because I've managed to damage them with the prongs before now.

        Thanks again,
        Duncan

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by alan_thomas View Post
          Agreed often a 'Google' can come up with some priceless tips. However give you a tip, don't google 'Bush Removal' !!
          Brilliant! Have you been reading the thread 'Can you guess what it is?'

          Duncan.

          Comment


            #6
            Hi duncan, as I said in another thread i'll back this all the way,limiteg stag knowledge but would hope my experiences would help

            steve

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by SUTTY1 View Post
              Hi duncan, as I said in another thread i'll back this all the way,limiteg stag knowledge but would hope my experiences would help

              steve
              Thanks Steve,

              I've responded to you on the other thread on the water pump, but I'll wait and see if there's any suggestions coming forward from the membership before doing a trawl through the postings.

              With best wishes,
              Duncan

              Comment


                #8
                I've found over the past 40 years that my worst enemies have been lack of time and brute force.

                I know not everyone has the luxury of running an old car as a second vehicle, but if a joint is stuck - typically our old ball joint friend - I wind up an extractor as far as it goes, soak it in PlusGas or any other fluid, and leave it. Find something else that needs doing, every few hours go back and tighten up the tool a notch. One time you'll hear an almighty BANG!, and the thing will have separated without any banging, mashing the threads or whatever. Cups of tea seem to accelerate the process and make the wait more enjoyable!

                The second antidote to brute force is a bit more "elaborate". Only recently have I discovered Impact Wrenches. If you have a compressor, get one of these! Completely rusted suspension bolts whose heads would shear off if you so much as wave a breaker bar at them, will undo as if they had only been fitted last week when the vibration of an impact driver does its stuff. It also removes front pulley bolts which have defied all efforts to stop the engine/car rotating or other areas where it is difficult to stop the assembly you want to hold from turning. You don't need a giant compressor - a small one will do, but just needs you to pause while it "reloads". Certainly one of the best purchases I've ever made.

                Here's a tip where you can save money. If you have a stud corroded in or the bolt head has snapped off, DON'T bother buying one of those left-hand thread stud extractor "drills". In 30 years (I stopped believing in this fairy 10 years ago) I've never had a stud move with one of these things. Furthermore, they snap off like fresh carrots and leave a metal core in the stud which can only be drilled out with a steel compound which uses material from the centre of a meteorite and hasn't been invented yet.
                The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

                Comment


                  #9
                  Many thanks, Drew. I'll lift that and include it in the first draft.

                  Duncan.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    wave an oxy acetylene gas-axe in front of it (unlit) sometimes frightens the siezed item into submission.

                    For very stubborn offenders light it.

                    Only the very worst need to be actually warmed into cooperation!

                    Gave up fighting with siezed stuff a long time ago. Buy new bolts and nuts.....just cut the old ones off if they are remotely stuck they wont be worth reusing anyway.

                    Drews comments about ezi outs made me laugh & they are spot on!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by jbuckl View Post
                      wave an oxy acetylene gas-axe in front of it (unlit) sometimes frightens the siezed item into submission.

                      For very stubborn offenders light it.

                      Only the very worst need to be actually warmed into cooperation!

                      Gave up fighting with siezed stuff a long time ago. Buy new bolts and nuts.....just cut the old ones off if they are remotely stuck they wont be worth reusing anyway.

                      Drews comments about ezi outs made me laugh & they are spot on!
                      Dear Jbuckl,

                      Many thanks, I'll write your meaning into the text.

                      Duncan

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Whilst an apprentice in engineering i was working alongside mechanics and often helped out if workload became low , most used to shift those troublesome joints with a favourite hammer on the side of the offending ball joint or any tappered joint together with a spliter of a very long bar to create the release , it used to make me cringe but i guess when time is money and a customer screaming for his car back the choices are few ! Btw it did work every time but i am still with Drew on this one
                        Regards edd

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by edd View Post
                          Whilst an apprentice in engineering i was working alongside mechanics and often helped out if workload became low , most used to shift those troublesome joints with a favourite hammer on the side of the offending ball joint or any tappered joint together with a spliter of a very long bar to create the release , it used to make me cringe but i guess when time is money and a customer screaming for his car back the choices are few ! Btw it did work every time but i am still with Drew on this one
                          Regards edd
                          Thanks, Edd. I know exactly what you are saying and have used the hammer method quite a few times in the past, always with success. Now that separators have come along and made the job easier, I've added some pictures of those to the article so that all known methods are shown also.

                          I'm just about finished the article on seized nuts & bolts, studs and sheared studs, so will be adding other topics where techniques have been developed to help remove something stubborn.

                          I have been thinking along the lines of removal of old rubber suspension bushes because they often need some 'creativity' to help them out - I know that from when I faced up to my trailing arm bushes. I've noticed there's an article on that in this months' Practical Classics, but if anyone has any stag-related tips that I could include on that subject, I'd be happy to receive them.

                          With best wishes and many thanks,
                          Duncan

                          Comment


                            #14
                            *works but be careful*

                            To undo Pulley bolt:-

                            remove radiator;

                            remove the king lead & or sparking plugs;

                            fit an combination 15/16" spanner to the bolt; rest the open end of the 15/16" spanner on the left side of the radiator support panel & a wooden protector (or an axle stand if the panel is rotten)

                            flick the ignition key.

                            has been known to work 1st time!
                            Last edited by jbuckl; 21 February 2012, 12:13.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by jbuckl View Post
                              *works but be careful*

                              To undo Pulley bolt:-

                              remove radiator;

                              remove the king lead & or sparking plugs;

                              fit an combination 15/16" spanner to the bolt; rest the open end of the 15/16" spanner on the left side of the radiator support panel & a wooden protector (or an axle stand if the panel is rotten)

                              flick the ignition key.

                              has been known to work 1st time!



                              Sorry mate, can't agree, as you say, "works, but be careful" it really is quite dangerous. The simplest and safest way, is to obviously remove the rad, then grip the crank snout behind the pulleys with a Stilson and undo the bolt with socket and a long bar, or even a torque wrench in reverse. Martin.

                              Comment

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