Electric window mechanism

[paulbell6]

Just back in from the garage and have a problem with my passenger window. I have re built the assembly in the door and managed to get the window lift mechanism fitted, but when I apply power the motor struggles to lift and stops about half way up, although it responds to a little help and gets to the top. Previously, before the lifter was fitted the window ran up and down the frame very easily. I assumed that the coil spring was there to give help to the motor during the lift, therefore when I re assembled the lifter I ensured that the lever was at the top before i replaced the spring, which duly coiled up as the window went down.
Does any one have experience of re building this mechanism?

Many thanks

Paul

[Bob Heritage]

Try some silicone spray in the runners.

[Firept]

Paul
1st Make sure the window frame is not twisted.
2nd iI you have replaced the window channel rubbers are they fully home, on a previous thread some time end of last year I think there was a good guide to fitting them its more than just sliding in the new rubber!! have a search and see what comes up.
Last point is that the cables feeding the motor to quite honest are not big enough for the current the motor can pull. the volt drop is quite high, they work but could do better(sounds like my school report).

Paul.

[Robin Searle]

Hi Paul,
Have rebuilt both door windows,new rubbers etc etc.but had a problem with the fairly new/rebuilt motor straining and window seems as not to stick.I was interested in your comment back in Feb.2012 about the wire sizes being too light for the current that it draws.When the motor is on my lap connected to the feeder wires the motor works AOK, both up and down from the switch,but with no load.Are you suggesting that I remove the two wires from the top of the motor and re-connect heavier ones??

Robin Searle over the pond in Canada

[Firept]

Robin.
In a word yes!.
If you connect up you motor and the with a volt meter across the connectors as close to the motor as possible you will find that the voltage instead of being 12 volt it will be around 6 or 7 measured with motor on load but not stalled. Now if you can get a bigger supply and return wire to and from the motor you should find the voltage will improve. Most modern car wire now comes thin walled and it gives a higher cross sectional area for the same outer diameter of cable so will handle higher currents and therefore less loss across the cable. (http://www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php?cPath=89 )

The other point is to make sure you check the rubber seals and that they are fully home in the window channels see the link to Duncan's post where he has fitted them correctly http://www.stag.org.uk/forum/showthr...indow+channels

All the best
Paul.

[Nambo]

Another possible fault is the scissor pivot hole, this can become oval which will prevent the window coming all the way down.

[Robin Searle]

Thanks to both of you,I took the motor casing off and what did I discover?? the rebuilt motor, that was done by the people who rebuild them for Rimmers,found that the wires that connect to the brushes would be better connected had they used spit,as soldering job was c**p,no use of flux was evident.So British problem,needed a British fix,I used two screw connectors available on a strip,not sold in NA but picked some up in Barbados, and each one was small enough to tuck up in the corner. I replaced both wires, to and from the motor,with heavier ones and screwing each side down made a 100% connection.First time trying it did not work period,but correctly guessed that one of the brushes had moved forward and down,so raided my wife's sewing box and using thread around the brush wires to pull them back,slipped the bottom back on,then pulled the threads out and bingo it worked fist time I connected up.
As it appears to be a two person job putting window and frame back in,decided that I could make it that much easier by wrapping masking tape around front and rear end,top to bottom and back,over top of frame and under bottom of motor arm track, now should work without trying to hold on to window and frame separately, but at the same time.

Will also use some 3 in 1 silicone spray in the channels,as well as another tip,leave nuts and bolts a tad slack to let it seat in,then tighten and test all the way around.

Thanks again.The car will now be ready for the largest British Car Day show in all of North America here in Toronto,where we have over 1200 cars every year for the past 27 years,on the field from all British makes,a fitting tribute to all those union leaders from the 60's 70's and 80's!!!!

[Robin Searle]

Hi Paul,
Where can I obtain a new set of brushes for the Stag window motor,as mine appear 60% worn??

Thanks
Robin

[Firept]

Robin.
Not sure but a search around may throw up something, long shot but they may be the same as the wiper motor brushes Lucas prince of darkness often used the same parts.
If you have the size then look at this site http://store.eurtonelectric.com/automotive.aspx they are in Santa Fe.

or on the bay :- http://stores.ebay.co.uk/tankard03/_..._sid=119673246 he may be worth an email.

Paul.