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    engine block drains

    Hello Duncan, Here goes with the pictures only 5 per post so it will take a couple Ian A
    DSCF3130sm.JPGDSCF3124sm.JPGDSCF3131sm.JPGDSCF3125.jpg.
    DSCF3132.jpg

    #2
    Engine block drains part2

    Hello, This will prohably seem very disjointed but I will answer any questions. Cheers Ian A
    DSCF3133sm.JPGDSCF3129sm.JPGDSCF3126sm.JPGDSCF3128sm.JPGDSCF3127sm.JPG

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      #3
      Engine block drains part3

      DSCF3135sm.JPGDSCF3139sm.JPG

      I decided there must be an easier way to access the block drains. The heads are off for an oil leak and renew th valve giudes and make a S/Steel exhaust manifold.
      The LHS I screwed an adaptor in to take 1/2" SS tube to run forward passing just under the engine mount and supported there with a Polyuethane bushed tube attached to the forward side of the mount. The pipe carried forward to a valve and an elbow. This end may not be the final configuration as it will have to fit with the exhaust. That was the easy one.
      The RHS much more difficult due to P/steer. Oil cooler pipes, Steeering shaft and oil temp sender. I screwed a nipple and elbow into the block and found it looking straight at the engine mount. (Damm or words to that effect). I supported the block and removed the complete mount and drilled and welded a tube into it ti let the drain pass through it. It is supported by another polyuethane bush that is slipped into the the engine mount tube and secured to the top bolt into the block. Again the drain carries forward with a valve and elbow and may not be final as above.
      Cheers Ian A

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        #4
        I couldn't figure out those pics, but then read the other 2 posts and it all became clear. When I removed my drain plugs a few months ago, one was clear (ish) and the other was gunged up and I had to clear it with a piece of wire. That might not be so easy with your new arrangement, but I suppose you could connect up a high pressure hose to your new fittings and give it all a good backwards squirt.

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          #5
          i cant say as i found this a hard job ever to undo two plugs and drain .this is a pretty set up but a lot of work and i fear by fitting straight to the block the aperture is now reduced in size which will make it difficult to pass anything of size that can be found to block this area.in the first instance when draining ive often found these ports to be blocked with crud requiring a good poking to clear.but as mentioned you could give it a reverse flush.
          do you think linking these two ports to a common drain valve in a loop which would mean water could circulate from one side to other continuously until draining was required would help,might stop them silting up at this point.
          Beautiful early mk1 white tv8 mod? MGB GT and now looking for another V8

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            #6
            The idea is that it now appears to be all clear and with a twice a year flush it should remain so
            Cheers Ian A

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              #7
              Twice a year?!
              1974 TV8 Manual O/D in aerosilver

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                #8
                I have found since clearing the drain holes on my first full coolant flush on my current stag six years ago they have always been clear and the flush is done by me every two years.
                Mark

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hi guys, It will get flushed at least once yearly when the antifreeze is changed.
                  Cheers Ian A

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                    #10
                    Hello Ian,

                    Many thanks for posting these piccies - they're going to be very useful.

                    P.M. Sent.

                    With best wishes,
                    Duncan, Skye

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