Holley Floats

[Goldstar]

After an hour or two in the garage this afternoon, I've now concluded that the float in the front bowl of my Holley is not shutting off the fuel supply at all whih is the cause of my rich running. When I lifted the nut off on top of the bowl the float adjustment was already screwed most of the way in and the fuel kept pouring out of the sight hole on the side so no more adjustment available-probably bottomed out by PO.

Th question is has anyone changed the floats on a Holley or is it possible to just adjust the tab that is supposed to shut off the valve? I've had a look on YouTube for some videos and the initial process of removing the bowl looks easy but I haven't found any video on changing the float. Any advice gratefully received. Hope Real Steel are open tomorrow.

Thanks

Paul

[V Mad]

Most likely there is some grit that has interfered with the float valve. You might be able to dislodge it without taking off the bowl. Try shutting off fuel supply with engine running, then restart as normal.

[flying farmer]

Most likely there is some grit that has interfered with the float valve. You might be able to dislodge it without taking off the bowl. Try shutting off fuel supply with engine running, then restart as normal.

This happened to me several times when I had a holley fitted, and doing this shifted it every time
Neil

[Goldstar]

Next instalment.

Did the empty the bowl test (3 times) with no change. I then took the front bowl off and bench set the float to shut off the needle at level, checked the float floated (it did) and checked that when the float was up that it shut off (it did). Then did the same at the rear float with similar results.

The front bowl shut off needle did seem a little sticky when the float pressure was removed but it did still drop to open unaided and the fuel pressure would overcome that. I did notice that the spring in the front bowl float assembly was different to the rear one and seemed weaker but I'm not sure if that is significant. I'll take that needle an seat out to see if i can clean it otherwise I'll get a new one for the front bowl when Realsteel open on Tuesday to see if that solves the problem.

Next step is to swap the fuel pump (desperation) but I'm a bit at a loss as to why it all seems to work as advertised but over fuels. The plugs are dry but very black so I have cleaned them up at least!

Paul

[norstag]

Happened to me a few times usually at traffic lights, and then would not restart. I took the needle valve out, blew through it acouple of times and it was always OK when refitted. I carried a spanner for the locknut in the dash pocket so it was handy.Try a new inline filter , may be a bit of rust or crud getting thro.I changed to a four barrel weber, no trouble since.
Alan

[4x4]

Happened to me quite a few times - the needle valve seems not to seal.
Have replaced them a number of times, though whether this is any more effective than simply cleaning I have no idea!!

[Goldstar]

Happened to me quite a few times - the needle valve seems not to seal.
Have replaced them a number of times, though whether this is any more effective than simply cleaning I have no idea!!

Hi Adrian, I'm going to whip the valve out after lunch and see if I can sort it.

Paul

[ChasR]

One thing I have seen recommended on the Rods 'n' Sods forums is to only use genuine Holley spares to rectify them.

Regarding your fuel bowls how long a period do you leave your ignition on for when they are filling up? It is only meant to be a couple of seconds if the floats are empty so as to prevent the needles in the floats from seating incorrectly.

[Goldstar]

Hi Chas, the needle is obviously not seating. The fuel doesn't stop flowing into the bowl as it should when the float gets to the point where it is supposed to be shut. When i tried to set the floats the fuel kept pouring out of the sight plug. Even when the bowl is obviously full i.e. just after ignition off, the fuel pump is going and going, it never shuts off. The plugs are blacker than the ace off spades and i can only assume the fuel is pumping into the chambers as i don't see an overflow (and there's no fulel on the garage floor).

Whoever set it up last knew there was a problem as the idle mixture screws are only out half a turn rather than the one and a half (plus or minus) that they should befor correct operation. When I open them to one and a half the engine runs lumper than school custard-back to half a turn open and it runs fine.

I'll run over to RealSteel on Tuesday and get a couple of OE valves and, hopefully some advice on set up.

Cheers

Paul