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Not Stag - Mercedes CLK issue - any ideas?

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    Not Stag - Mercedes CLK issue - any ideas?

    I have a CLK 270 CDI - 2004. 82k miles - 5 speed auto

    Have had a problem for sometime with a rear braking judder type noise and feeling coming through the body of the car (rather than the steering wheel) when I perfom firm (as against light or hard) breaking from about 40/60 mph (below and above that there is no issue) particular when coming down a slope to stop at a junction.

    This has got worse recently - and indeed is now quite alarming with more vibration and noise like I'm running over rumble strips on the road, and it has also just started to do it when braking on long sweeping bends - particularly to the right). However the car does still stop quickly enough. I did notice that it got worse after being laft for a week at the airport (with the parking brake applied - I never normally use it)

    The rear tyres are to MB spec (size) and don't appear to be warped, tho they are quite low on tread, but legal. Rear pads quite new, and the discs don't have any markings or scoring on them. Front tyres and pads are new.

    So I took it into kwikfit to get a look underneath (for free), they found that both rear springs were broken - at the last turn at the bottom - so I replaced them. They checked the braking performance and found brake pressure on the rear wheels to be constant and balanced. So the discs aren't warped, and I know the pads have plenty of life in them. They also checked all the rear suspension mounts / prop shaft and could find nothing wrong. the symtoms continue.

    So any ideas what it can be. I wondered about an ABS fault (a wheel sensor?), but surely that would have shown up in the brake test? I have no dash fault warnings at all.

    The mechanic suggested that it could need to have gearbox/torque convertor fluid and filter replacing (he said due at around 80k miles) - I don't understand his reasoning - I have no problems with the gearbox - it changes smoothly and there seems to be no slipping - but I am doubtful about fluid (not the place to start in cost terms alone).

    #2
    As a mechanic/technician sorry but a can offer little adice and would need to inspect car to diagnose fault, to far away though!

    The bit of advice i would offer, if you get no other, is to have the car inspected by proper garage with decent mechanic/technician's. These fast-fit centres staff are only "fitters" (most of them) even some adverts admit it,
    "you cant get better than a K...F.. fitter". I agree the free check-overs can be handy, RANT OVER, steve

    Comment


      #3
      Can't help Alistair, I just wanted to express my jealousy ! Martin.

      Comment


        #4
        usually a disk/pad change would be the first step with this - often caused by uneven pad wear or poor quality pads

        The mechanic you have spoken to has offered good advise regarding the ATF - Although originally 'sealed for life' MB changed their schedule and now recommend an ATF change - i think somewhere around 60/70K - it is a lengthier process than you expect which requires the new fluid pumped in as the old is pumped out, any independent MB spanner-man will be familiar with whats needed (but it won't affect your braking judder)

        ....... Andy

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          #5
          Hi Alistair,

          Having done 400,000 miles in automatic mercs I have come across this problem myself.
          The road springs need to be inspected for breakage quite often.(dont use mercedes springs...they break the quickest in my experience, 3mths in one case)
          Change ATF and filter in the transmission every 50,000 or less. Drain the convertor each time. Use fluids from mercedes or equivalent (not generic types)

          The braking problem is often caused by our driving styles (see below).


          Fit new pads and disks all round.(particular attention to cleaning mating faces is required, often not attended to)
          Check disc runouts after fitting.
          Alternatively, consider on car grinding to achieve runouts. http://www.skimmydiscs.co.uk/
          Lubricate caliper pistons behind the rubber dust shields with brake grease.
          Ensure caliper pistons are moving freely.
          If applicable, the calipers sliding pins / bushes should be inspected / replaced / lubricated with silicone grease.
          The above will normally fix braking judder unless abs is faulty.

          To ensure it doesn't reoccur:-
          Always put the car into neutral or park with the 'hand'/secondary-brake on when stationary.....especially after braking (nearly always) AND release the main brake asap.

          If the last point is not followed the discs will distort again.

          Keeping the main brake on after braking, helps to distort the discs due to differing cooling rates when the pads are in stationary contact on a hot disc.

          Mercedes have issued statements regarding this over the years.

          Regards
          Julian

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