Rover V8 engined Stag cooling.

[atc40]

Fitted a Rover V8 efi engine to my Stag when I restored it 10 years ago, and although it is fine when moving as soon as it stops the temperature starts to climb. This ruins the pleasure of driving it for me and I watch the temperature gauge more than when it had the original Stag V8 in it! As I only use it in sunny weather = more cars on the road= more queues, hence the low mileage of 4000 in 10 years. I need to do something about it. Thought about fitting a Rover V8 radiator in but when compared to the size of the Stag radiator would mean too much cutting around of the bodywork. Are there any Rover V8 engined Stag owners out there that can suggest a suitable radiator, without too much panel work required? How have you overcome this problem? My Stag is fitted with an electric water pump and 14" Kenlowe but minus the engine driven fan. I would love to have a Stag that would idle all day and not overheat (Along with every Stag owner I suspect) like all modern cars nowadays. Any suggestions please?

[iani]

Is a 14" Kenlowe large enough as a sole fan for this engine size? I'd have thought you'd be best having the engine fan fitted and use the Kenlowe as a secondary.

Ian

[deanoed]

Is a 14" Kenlowe large enough as a sole fan for this engine size? I'd have thought you'd be best having the engine fan fitted and use the Kenlowe as a secondary.

Ian

I had the same when I had a rv8 a new rad cured it

[flying farmer]

The Rover V8 will not take any more cooling at idle than a Stag V8, the fact it cools ok when moving suggests that the rad is ok, likewise the electric water pump. This rather narrows it down to an airflow problem which suggests fan problems
I have a 14 inch two speed kenlowe fitted to my TV8 engined stag which has to idle at 1000 rpm due to the fast road cams (produces a lot more heat than normal) and no engine driven fan and it cools fine on the low speed on all but the hottest days when the second speed will cut in intermittently.
I did try an ebay cheapy 16 inch fan first, which was rapidly consigned to the back of the shed as useless
Make sure the fan shroud is tight against the radiator core or it will just stir the air rather than force it through the rad.
My radiator also had a three quarter inch gap down the sides next to the mounting panel which lets lots of superheated air back round to the front of the radiator. I blocked this with some rubber boot/hatchback sealing strip from the local scrappies.
If the original air duct over the top of the rad has been removed, block the hole with something for the same reason
Finally, if yours is the old flap type of injection try richening the idle mixture (allen key in the air flow meter) as this drops combustion temperatures at idle and will help keep down the temperature of the exhaust manifolds
Neil

[jakesmig]

When I changed from a 3.5RV8 to a 3.9RV8 and I fitted an alloy radiator bought on ebay, made in China, which was listed for an MG RV8 and it keeps the engine cool eonough, but as neil says the stag radiator should be good enough for the job, was in mine with the 3.5RV8 in. Ive got a single speed electric fan in mine, no engine fan.
You could also try advancing the ignition a couple of degrees, a retarded ignition causes additional heat build up in the valves & head, which reduces naturally when the ignition advances with increased throttle.
The MG Rv8 radiator is about 70 mm narrower than the stag rad so you have to make that up if you go down that route.
John.