Hi Guys. Story is this, car laid up last October, attempted restart 2 weeks ago. Turned over fine (battery maintainer used) but wouldn't fire at all. Took plug out, dry but good spark. Took off carbs, removed float chambers and blew out viton tipped needle valves. Back together and bingo, two or three turns and away it went. Ran fine. Left it to stand for a week, took ages to start again, but eventually did. Ran ok. Another week and MOT booked, again, took ages to start from cold but once going ran fine, stopped and started fine, Passed mot, no problems. 2 days later (today) wouldn't start. Plenty of fuel in filter, pump ticking and good pressure at carb inlets. Plug out, dry but good spark. Carbs off, same procedure as before ( float bowls were full) needle valves out and back in, refitted carbs and bingo...2 or 3 turns and away it went. However, this time it was running rougher with an erratic tickover and a flat spot at low revs when making it pull and very difficult to start from warm. After 30 mins standing wouldn't start at all. Any suggestions please? Diaphragms?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
HELP....None starter!
Collapse
X
-
Have you put any fresh petrol in since the initial restart two weeks ago?
Modern petrol has a very limited shelf-life and the first journey I tend to make when waking the cars from their winter slumber is straight to the petrol station for a tankful of Mr Shell's finest V-Power.
Regards
PeterBereft of a Triumph of any description.
-
same here for the last 2 start ups after the winter layup,it would seem some stags don't like being ignored for so long!! only got mine going by similar methods to yours and ended up pouring petrol down the carb throats to keep it running until it sorted itself out, if I tried to increase the revs it would stop again.I would certainly try new petrol and flush it through to make sure the needle valves aren't gummed up. I've had enough of this ball ache every spring and plan to run her up over winter as never had any probs when I used to do this. let us know how you go on with it.
regards.pete.c
Comment
-
Guest
What about that Easy Start stuff? Never used it but am thinking of buying a can as I have a similar issue withthe MM it seems.
Comment
-
Originally posted by piscean57 View PostWhat about that Easy Start stuff? Never used it but am thinking of buying a can as I have a similar issue withthe MM it seems.
DaveLast edited by DJT; 22 April 2012, 19:13.Dave
1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.
Comment
-
Hi Guys. I put in a gallon of fresh from the pump before the first start attempt, then as soon as running drove around and filled up with 97 octane. I don't think it's a fuel quality problem as the plugs are bone dry, even after a few mins of intermittent cranking with the chokes on. There is a small pool of fuel sitting in the inlet manifold though when I get the carbs off. The carbs were rebuilt by a well advertised supplier in Bradford 12 months ago, but I've still had to change the always sticking needle valves for viton tipped, which seemed to improve things. I'm a bit stuck now! Thanks Mel
Comment
-
Guest
-
Hi Mel, I had a similar problem. It started OK but was difficult to start when hot. After reading the forum I topped up the dashpots, then while running I pulled the inertia switch and let the engine run dry. Problem solved. Just done 100 miles today with no starting problems. Don't ask me why this should solve it but it did.
Peter, Cupar
Comment
-
Originally posted by piscean57 View PostWhat about that Easy Start stuff? Never used it but am thinking of buying a can as I have a similar issue withthe MM it seems.
Have used it on an old Cortina engine where my friend was over generous with it, car started but on trying it again a week later there was a bang, the easy start had dried out the oil on the valve stems, which had rusted. The bang was the camshaft breaking.
John.
Comment
Comment