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Does anyone have a spare starter motor?

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    Does anyone have a spare starter motor?

    The MM is having starting issues again if it's not been used for a week or so and is in some ways it's similar to the trouble when I first had it. That time after renewing coil (twice) condensor, dizzy cap, points, ballast resistor, plugs all to no avail it turned out to be a dodgy starter motor which, when rebuilt, cured the issue.

    Once it starts and is used, it seems to be ok the rest of the day and next day, but due to time of year and committments, it then a week / 10 days before next use. First spin of the key it catches and runs for about a second then dies and doesn't want to know after that. The fuel pump is quite new and the plugs and points have been changed again.

    I can't really think the starter has gone faulty again but, rather than sent it off to be reconditioned or buy another and find that's not the issue having spend £150 in the process, I wondered if anyone had a spare that they know works fine and wouldn't mind lending to me for a couple of weeks to see what happens?

    #2
    If it is firing ok while the starter motor is spinning but dies when the key is released then you have a loom fault in the supply to the ignition. I had this on a Dolomite years ago, and never did find the source of the problem, but got round it by taking a feed directly from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor. This is probably the easiest solution to the problem
    Neil
    Neil
    TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

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      #3
      I'm with Neil on this one - chances of this being starter are miniscule, but a wiring or ignition switch fault very likely

      Comment


        #4
        Hi piscean 57. If you can't procure a stag starter motor a triumph 2000 starter motor will fit and work. I know because I ordered new brushes for my stag starter motor from Rimmer bros and they wouldn't fit. I returned them they did the exchange and kindly informed me my starter was a triumph 2000 one. I didn't know that and we've owned the car since 1990.

        Cheers George stag1.

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          #5
          Thanks George. As I said,i can't see it being the starter 'per se', but it's got be some sort of electrical fault closely related to it as the symptoms are so similar to before. It's getting fuel and when cranking sounds like it is only making the effort to fire every 3rd or 4th spin.

          Someone came over with a multi-meter tonight and he said it was getting 8v not 12v at the coil and then 4v when it should have 6v. I am going to get it trailered to the garage

          Comment


            #6
            ian

            i bet its your ignition switch at fault,but i do have a starter you can try

            dave

            Comment


              #7
              It would be worth putting a multi meter across the ignition switch before taking it to a garage. It should be 12V in and 12V out, any significant drop here will be your problem. I don't know if the Stag ones are the same as the TR, but I was able to seperate the back by prising back the metal crimps. The insides are mainly a copper ring that bridges the terminals when the key is turned. This had gone green and furry and a clean up cured the problem
              If it is not the switch it is most likely one of the multi pin plugs. I had this problem on the Stag powered estate recently and couldn't fix the plug, so had to remove the dodgy pins from the plug and connect them via a screwed connector block
              Neil
              Neil
              TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

              Comment


                #8
                Save your money on a trailer and hot wire it. If you temporarily wire 12v direct to the coil (assuming its not a ballast coil) it should start. For safety reasons dont leave it like that though.

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                  #9
                  Cheers guys.

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                    #10
                    If it is like my Stag and still running an original loom to the starter check the junction feed below the washer bottle where 4 positive wires are tapped off the positive supply feed (fusebox, alternator in addition to a few places come off this). I managed to just save mine by feeding solder into it (I have since acquired a spare wiring loom), but it did take out a number of issues for me (main one being how the car would decide whether to run or not).

                    Another thing, I would be wary of the condition of reconditioned parts. Some literally seem to be repainted and have the label reconditioned stuck onto them.

                    Comment

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