modern fuse board on eBay

[Dieter H. Marschall]

Hello everybody,

Have you already seen this: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Triumph-Stag-...item5649e963fb

This looks like the solution to many problems. What do you think of the price?

Kind regards,
Dieter.

[wb50]

I wonder how easy or hard would it be to make your own, seems a little pricey to me though

[singapore stag]

Hello everybody,

Have you already seen this: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Triumph-Stag-...item5649e963fb

This looks like the solution to many problems. What do you think of the price?

Kind regards,
Dieter.

Looks good, price is not too bad considering the effort.

I remember MJ Heathcote doing a really good homemade one, check this thread out..

http://www.stag.org.uk/forum/showthread.php?12796-Modern-fuse-board-for-the-Stag&highlight=fuse+board

Sukh.

[tonypy1]

Looks the basis of a very good idea but I really don't like the look of those cheapo insulated crimp connectors if I was doing the job myself they would all be proper non-insulated type terminals that with insulating shrouds with more durable crimp connections made cup with the correct tool. I can't understand how someone would go to the trouble of doing that but not have the proper tools and materials to see the job through.

[dasadrew]

Looks like a right bodge to me. If you're going to be content with the limitations of commercial fuseboxes in that they only have two spade terminals per fuse as opposed to the Stag's 4 per fuse, then you might as well just buy a box like this

http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1272

I'm going to try and work out a Stag direct replacement like MJHeathcote using connected fuseholders like this

http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1265

but the problem is, as said, that they only have two spades per fuse.

[jbuckl]

Hello everybody,

Have you already seen this: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Triumph-Stag-...item5649e963fb

This looks like the solution to many problems. What do you think of the price? Kind regards,
Dieter.

crimps are lowest quality

need to fix the Irish economy somehow

[okistag]

Hi all,

I would like to reply to the above comments just to clear up some points raised. I want to make it clear, I am not pluging anything on the forum but seeing it has come on to it I feel I must say something.

So here it goes. I have owned my Stag the past 12 years and always have had one or another issue with electrics, could not get a new fuseboard and I tried.
For the past 5 years the issue just became worse and then 6 months ago I just didnt want to use my Stag and she sat in the garage.
I nearly lost my Stag due to wires started to melt at the rear of the fuse box which I just saw smelt in time. Repaired these wires, then I had starting issues, turning over and no spark!! knock fuse box and she would start, I just lost confidence in it.
I am not a person who would be into the electricial side of things, but a good friend who is more than quailified and another Triumph man, said he would have a look at it for me, he went off with my manuals and he came up with this unit. There was one thing I wanted to keep the engine bay fairly original. (Crazy with a holley in there) I know. Anyway he came up with this super unit, I suggested he put it on ebay as there must be others out there with the same problem..

Unless one wants to carry out a complete rewire which would challenge most enthusiasts, this Stag fuseboard and loom is a retrofit kit specifically designed to use the existing Stags fuseboards double spade connections at the rear and to retain existing wiring in place.Therefore there is no need to use blade fuseboards with double spade connections. The loom wiring uses proper crimped insulated spade terminals using the correct crimping tool and additional heat shrink insulation where required. Don't forget that existing Stag spade terminals are also of the crimped variety, not soldered. However, if a customer prefers soldered terminals instead of crimped, they can be accommodated subject to interest at an extra cost (to be advised on ebay if asked).

[okistag]

I wonder how easy or hard would it be to make your own, seems a little pricey to me though

It would not be hard to make your own if your handy with wiring, its more the time where the cost comes into it.

[mjheathcote]

Looks good, price is not too bad considering the effort.

I remember MJ Heathcote doing a really good homemade one, check this thread out..

http://www.stag.org.uk/forum/showthread.php?12796-Modern-fuse-board-for-the-Stag&highlight=fuse+board

Sukh.

Blimey is it really a year ago since I did that, doesn't time fly!
cheers
Mike

[tonypy1]

As I said in my previous post it's a good idea in principle and don't want to p*** on your mate's chips but there's crimped connectors and there's crimped connectors. It's nothing to do with soldering, as you stated the Stag has crimped connectors all over but they are the proper non-insulated type that require a special tool to crimp, an insualting shroud is dropped over the wire before fitting, then the terminal is crimped in two places - on to the insulation and on to the conducting wire strands. This method helps eliminate metal fatigue and work hardening due to vibrations (at the point were the wire strands exit from the insulation) that the pre-insulated crimp connectors are more prone to. It is possible to crimp the pre-insulated connectors twice to try and reduce this problem however the quality of the oval crimp with the basic flattening tool and the overall durability of the terminal is not as good as with the non-insualted type.

You can see the difference between the two types of connector here:

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/teminals_menu.php

However, despite mentioning this (in response to a "what do you think about this" question) I'm sure your Stag is now much better than it was with a knackered fuse box. Here's another approach albeit for a TR6 but I'm not sure I'd be happy with the screw clamp connectors either, it's always better for the live side to have some sort of insulating shroud so I think this would be a better solution if it was using spade connectors:

http://www.classic-technologies.com/fuse-box.php

http://www.74tr6.com/fusepanel.htm

[martin]

Well Tony, if that doesn't call for the skills of a professional sparks then nothing does ! Martin.

[DJT]

Tony,
If the correct crimping tool is used, as stated in the post above, then these type of connectors are completely acceptable. In fact they meet the stringent requirements for electrical connections in the offshore oil industry.

Dave

[okistag]

As I said in my previous post it's a good idea in principle and don't want to p*** on your mate's chips but there's crimped connectors and there's crimped connectors. It's nothing to do with soldering, as you stated the Stag has crimped connectors all over but they are the proper non-insulated type that require a special tool to crimp, an insualting shroud is dropped over the wire before fitting, then the terminal is crimped in two places - on to the insulation and on to the conducting wire strands. This method helps eliminate metal fatigue and work hardening due to vibrations (at the point were the wire strands exit from the insulation) that the pre-insulated crimp connectors are more prone to. It is possible to crimp the pre-insulated connectors twice to try and reduce this problem however the quality of the oval crimp with the basic flattening tool and the overall durability of the terminal is not as good as with the non-insualted type.

You can see the difference between the two types of connector here:

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/teminals_menu.php

However, despite mentioning this (in response to a "what do you think about this" question) I'm sure your Stag is now much better than it was with a knackered fuse box. Here's another approach albeit for a TR6 but I'm not sure I'd be happy with the screw clamp connectors either, it's always better for the live side to have some sort of insulating shroud so I think this would be a better solution if it was using spade connectors:

http://www.classic-technologies.com/fuse-box.php

http://www.74tr6.com/fusepanel.htm

Hi
Thank you for your input.. its great to get others views on issues like these.
Very curious, while so many other parts are so freely available out there for the Stag why not the fuseboard ? Its the only thing that I couldnt get for years..


As to above,
I hear what you are saying and to use the "non-insulated type that require a special tool to crimp, an insualting shroud is dropped over the wire before fitting, then the terminal is crimped in two places" is not a problem to use them over the ones in the photo if one so wished.

I just thought it was a big issue, and this was the answer for me.. I then suggested offering it to others with the same issue as I had, and he said I would need to covered for my time, which is understandable.
This unit is made to a very high standard, we did not use cheapo connectors they are thick and heavy compared to so many out there and I guess the connectors are ones personal choice which he can catered for of course.
Personally I am delighted with it, at last everything works as it should... oh i would like to add the fellow who made this unit is more than quailified in the electricial world.

[singapore stag]

Well it's miles better then the old fuse box...How long and what is involved with fitting this unit?....

Sukh.

[okistag]

Well it's miles better then the old fuse box...How long and what is involved with fitting this unit?....

Sukh.

Hi Sukh

Well it depends on how flexible you are.. as to time to fit it. e.g Dash left in place or not. Personally we removed the dash board from the Stag its also better to have it out to fit the mounting brackets for the new fuse board.
Removal of the dash was about half an hour or less, then its to remove the connections at the rear of the fuseboard one by one and connect the the new corrosponding wire/connection (piggyback connector) to that connection at the rear of the old fuse board then connect the original wire that you took off the fuseboard to the new piggyback connector.
All this is a slow process and I recommend taking ones time. In the kit will be a mounting bracket to fit under the dash again taking ones time. Refitting the dash.
In short we spent about 5 hours in total in the garage fitting it. But we also spent alot of time to decide where to fit the unit, for personal health issues I wanted easy access but I didnt want it to be seen either!! We are busy looking at making up a bracket so it can swing down when needed personal choice..