Carb Removal

[Guest]

Thanks for advice, will have another go today.

Peter, Ebay won't let me see the spanner pic - something about restrictions in my area. Don't understand why.

Johny, I can't get a spanner anywhere near that angle to get a grip on it. The best I can do is about 45° and if I apply force at that angle, I will surely round it. Looks as if mine might be screwed well in, or slighly different.

Dave, this I will do.

First step today is to borrow my neighbour's long nosed Mole Grips.

Why do designers make our lives so difficult?

[Bob Heritage]

Don, Just use a thin walled 7/16" ring spanner and go in from the front of the carbs.

[Guest]

Ok, removed the RH daspot cover and was able to, get a grip on it with an 11mm open ender. Came off no problem. I'm learning fast - don't want to do this as may times as Moraystag though! The "specialist" garage that worked on the LH carb just before I bought the car splattered oodles of back silicone sealer all over the big O ring. There were big blobs of it all over the place and I fished bits out of the manifold. With a new O ring, I am assuming additional sealer is not necessary.

I am assuming that this garage replaced the LH needle valve as there is a brand new gasket on this float chamber. The floats are set at over 20mm, which I assume is not good. I will reset them. The needle valve is marked "200" and has an aluminium washer on it. The new ones from JP are marked "175" and I don't see any washer in the service kit that fits the valve. Anyone know what the numbering difference means and should this aluminium washer be there at all? If not, that could explain the high float settings.

I would appreciate some advice before I start putting this lot back together again.

There is no problem with the RH carb, so I'm thinking of leaving well enough alone there - or should I change its needle valve whilst I am at it?

[martin]

It would be good practice to change both, but as you say, if it ain't busted, don't . . . . The needle valve numbering refers to the diameter of the carb throat, Triumph 2000 = CD150, Stag = CD175, don't know what a CD200 is but it's wrong, it'll let too much fuel through. If the ali washer is smooth and not damaged, use it again. The floats being at 20 mm means the level will be too low. Definitely no sealant on your new O ring, sounds like the car's been to Bodger & Leggit. Martin.

[ChasR]

The other thing to bear in mind is that sometimes people will for whatever reason bodge a vacuum takeoff into position making it near impossible to take the dashpot cover off. In my case I resorted to what Princejohnny did (removing it with a tight fitting spanner).

The needle valve numbering could possibly be one of the HRS additions?

[Guest]

Sorry to be a pain,

But these are photos of the RH floats. the LH's were fitted the same way:

P1000855.jpg P1000858.jpg

Looking at the ROM, these floats are a slightly different shape, so much so that I thought they were upside down:

P1000856.jpg

Now I have confused myself and don't know which way up is correct. I suspect the RH ones are correct, in which case I have just installed the LH ones incorrectly.

Help!

[Guest]

Sorry chaps - I have just had a good look and can answer my own question. The photos above are correct, so I have just re-installed the LH floats.

The RH needle valve was different to the LH one and does not have any number stamped on it! I have replaced it and hope all will be well.

The RH float pin was not located properly in its grooves.

As you can see, i'm working on the kitchen table again. Wifey is moaning a bit, but i told her that it's only a wiff of petrol now and agin, so no big deal. Anyway, the barn is a bit nippy today.