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**Arbman Al** · 28 May 2012, 10:55

Some good info here:

http://www.stag.org.uk/forum/showthread.php?13093-Sump-removal&highlight=Sump

**Norfolk Blue** · 28 May 2012, 11:11

Al. Thanks for the response and link to the earlier posting which i had read previously. As you said it has some good info but unfortunately i am still slightly uncertain. I really need a few more specifics as i have not removed the front crossmember before. If you or anyone else can help it would be great.

Tim

**NickA** · 28 May 2012, 11:49

From memory you need to unbolt the steering rack from the cross member and also the lower suspension arms. That should allow the cross member enough freedom to be pushed forwards.

**Norfolk Blue** · 28 May 2012, 12:59

Nick. Thanks for the response but i am still confused. In a previous thread you said the following "You need to remove the front crossmember or at least push it forwards otherwise the sump catches on it. Don't need to remove the steering rack you leave unbolted from the cross member, ". If i leave the steering rack bolted to the crossmember what happens when i unbolt the front member and move it forward a couple of inches. Why do i need to unbolt the lowere suspension arms? Is that because unless i do the crossmember cannot move forward? I think that might be the case but i am uncertain. What is not clear is how much movement i need. It doesnt look to me that i need much movement but i dont know if there is problem with the oil pick up for example.

Tim

**martin** · 28 May 2012, 15:19

I've never done this, but aren't you supposed to remove the strut top nuts, brake flexi's, the anti-roll bar and the drag struts, so that the whole assembly will drop ? Martin.

**Norfolk Blue** · 28 May 2012, 15:37

Martin. I have just found the relevant section in the Stag Repair Opeartions Manual. In it says disconnect anti roll bar, disconnect radius rods from lower wishbone, disconnect lower wishbone from cross member, disconnect rack and allow it to drop slightly, unclip brake pipe, remove crossmember, remove sump. From reading a previous posting i had the impression i could avoid some of this but as i said i am far from clear on exactly what i can get away with. What happens if for example i leave the rack bolted to the crossmember but undo the crossmember and allow it to drop a few inches? Will this work or does that cause other problems?

Tim

**NickA** · 28 May 2012, 16:14

Originally posted by Norfolk Blue View Post

Nick. Thanks for the response but i am still confused. In a previous thread you said the following "You need to remove the front crossmember or at least push it forwards otherwise the sump catches on it. Don't need to remove the steering rack you leave unbolted from the cross member, ". If i leave the steering rack bolted to the crossmember what happens when i unbolt the front member and move it forward a couple of inches. Why do i need to unbolt the lowere suspension arms? Is that because unless i do the crossmember cannot move forward? I think that might be the case but i am uncertain. What is not clear is how much movement i need. It doesnt look to me that i need much movement but i dont know if there is problem with the oil pick up for example.

Tim

Sorry my original post was wrong; The cross member won't move forward enough if the rack is still attacked to it. Same applies to the lower suspension arm.s

**martin** · 28 May 2012, 16:50

Of course you could just undo every bolt in sight till it all falls off

None of this is difficult, just a bit tedious, the only real issue of concern is the weight,, preferably do it with a friend to hand - just in case. Good luck, not that you'll need it.

Martin.

**Norfolk Blue** · 28 May 2012, 17:14

Nick. Thanks for clarifying things. I think i am going to do it as the manual says and take the cross member out as it will make bolting the sump back up a lot easier.

Martin. Having spent the last 6 weeks working on the engine; head overhaul, external water pump, header tank etc i am desparate to get it fired up again. Sorting the sump out and rewiring the alternator (moved) are pretty much the last jobs, or at least i think they are! I was just trying to cut some corners but that never works! So its back to crawling under the car. Thanks for the weight warning. No friends about this evening but i will take it steady and support the weight as i go.

Tim

**davidf** · 28 May 2012, 17:24

It is a long time since I did this, but I think I just released the steering column from the rack, and the inner ends of the lower wishbone from the cross member. The cross member then can't fall, as the track rods hold it, but I seem to remember it did move far enough down and forward to allow the sump out.

Forgive me if this is duff info, but the last few times I have done any serious engine work, I have lifted the whole lot out.

**martin** · 28 May 2012, 17:36

Sadly these old girls were built when parts were dear, but labour was cheap (relatively). Sometimes difficult to cut corners, but well worth trying to find out.

Martin.

**WealdenManinKent** · 28 May 2012, 20:06

Hello Tim
I just did this job last winter and I work on the basis of not removing more than I need to

I used axel stands and jacked car right up as far as I could, see attached piccy.
Undo from the cross member the NS & OS suspension arms, dont need to remove but just lever off from the cross member!
Undo the steering rack from cross member and push towards the front of car (dont need to remove).
Undo the 8x fixing nut & bolts from cross member to chassies rail and slide off to drivers side and put to one side (unclip the brake pipe from the cross member b4 doing this).
Then removal of the sump is possible, although the rear NS sump to block nut & bolt is a basxxxd to get to

Refitting in reverse, I used the paper gasket with minimal smearing of blue sealent and have no leaks or problems at all.
Reason to do the work for me was to replace big end and main bearing shells, replace oil pump so restoring full oil pressure.
Some have dropped the whole suspension and steering rack off during this process, which allows a total refurb but I didnt.
IMG_1587.jpg

**Norfolk Blue** · 28 May 2012, 20:33

Wealden Man. Thanks for the excellent instructions. I have just had to pack in for the evening but have made reasonable progress. Everything is undone (other than a couple of bolts holding the sump up) but as i could not get the suspension arms undone at the crossmember end i have undone them at the wheel end. I think its going to be ok. Tomorrow should be just about wiggling and removing the sump before cleaning and reversing the process.

Thanks Tim

**WealdenManinKent** · 28 May 2012, 20:40

Also beware, when I removed my sump I found years of thick sludge in the bottom of the sump pan, I think last time it was off was 1992 lol

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