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    Petrol Filters.

    In light of some of the recent posts, I thought I'd add my two P worth. I decided some while ago, after finding crud in the SU pump valves, to fit a washable glass filter between the tank and the pump, about twice a year, it gets enough junk in it to be worth cleaning. I've had no subsequent trouble with the pump, apart from that one dying of old age, and being replaced by an SU electronic one. Also, I now change the engine petrol filter when it starts to change from orange to brown, this happens very gradually, so needs watching. A bit of a ramble, for which I apologise, but I think it's worth saying. Martin.

    #2
    Originally posted by martin View Post
    In light of some of the recent posts, I thought I'd add my two P worth. I decided some while ago, after finding crud in the SU pump valves, to fit a washable glass filter between the tank and the pump, about twice a year, it gets enough junk in it to be worth cleaning. I've had no subsequent trouble with the pump, apart from that one dying of old age, and being replaced by an SU electronic one. Also, I now change the engine petrol filter when it starts to change from orange to brown, this happens very gradually, so needs watching. A bit of a ramble, for which I apologise, but I think it's worth saying. Martin.
    Good advice Martin,just like to add best to avoid running low on fuel when it drags all the c**p up.
    Mark

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by martin View Post
      In light of some of the recent posts, I thought I'd add my two P worth. I decided some while ago, after finding crud in the SU pump valves, to fit a washable glass filter between the tank and the pump, about twice a year, it gets enough junk in it to be worth cleaning. I've had no subsequent trouble with the pump, apart from that one dying of old age, and being replaced by an SU electronic one. Also, I now change the engine petrol filter when it starts to change from orange to brown, this happens very gradually, so needs watching. A bit of a ramble, for which I apologise, but I think it's worth saying. Martin.
      Martin,
      If you are regularly getting that much crud in your filter why don't you remove the tank and wash it out to remove all the accumulated crap. That way you "cure" the problem rather than treating the symptoms. As you know its a straight forward job on the Stag. Also if you are getting that much crud it may pay you to get some modern tank sealant applied at the same time as the tank is obviously deteriorating. I have used it on several cars in the past and it has helped preserve the tank and stop further degradation and despite many "hearsay" stories to the contrary never caused any other problems - just use a pukka one from Frost or similar that is suitable for modern fuels with 10% ethanol. With modern fuels and generally clean fuel from filling stations there is no reason for any crud to be in the tank at all. I recently scrapped a 150,000 mile car with a plastic tank. I cut the tank in half (curiosity) and was astounded at how spotless it was inside, no trace of "crud" at all.

      My 2p worth

      Roger
      Now Stagless but have numerous car projects
      So many cars, so little time!

      Comment


        #4
        Twice a year doesn't mean it's blocked, just worth cleaning, it's a precaution to protect the pump. I may need a tank before too long, but I'll continue with this practice. All tanks rust, except ally which I can't afford, and the ethanol issue will make it worse. Sadly, the FBHVC research didn't go far enough, and I don't trust any of the tank additives, the prospect of bits of the lining being sucked into the fuel system doesn't bear thinking about ! The filter cost £8 and took five minutes to fit, what's the issue ? As for a plastic tank being clean, is anybody surprised ? Martin.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by martin View Post
          Twice a year doesn't mean it's blocked, just worth cleaning, it's a precaution to protect the pump. I may need a tank before too long, but I'll continue with this practice. All tanks rust, except ally which I can't afford, and the ethanol issue will make it worse. Sadly, the FBHVC research didn't go far enough, and I don't trust any of the tank additives, the prospect of bits of the lining being sucked into the fuel system doesn't bear thinking about ! The filter cost £8 and took five minutes to fit, what's the issue ? As for a plastic tank being clean, is anybody surprised ? Martin.
          No Issue Martin its just that personally I like to sort out the problem at source rather than have ongoing maintenance. I agree in this case its only five minutes and a few quid a couple of times a year to maintain the filters. My point on the plastic tank was to say the crud comes from the tank itself and not an external source so it can be prevented & my point regarding the sealant was that it actually stops the corrosion (well slows it down) and stops the crud developing in the first place and in the process extends the life of the tank. Back in the 1980's I ran a 1955 Standard 8 with a very rusty tank. I removed it, cleaned it and sealed it and never had a fuel problem after that - and I did around 100,000 miles (yes 100k) over the next 8 years and it was fitted with twin SU's and I'd never heard of fuel filters then! Did manage to burn out a couple of exhaust valves though when running it on the infamous Shell Formula 2000 reduced lead fuel! There were fuel problems with older cars 20 odd years ago!

          Roger
          Now Stagless but have numerous car projects
          So many cars, so little time!

          Comment


            #6
            You did 100K in a Standard 8 ? bloody hell, I'm impressed. 45 years ago, Granny had a Standard 10, the only advantage was the boot lid, it was just as slow. Martin.

            Comment


              #7
              A pre-pump filter is a very good idea and one that I have used for many years.

              And as for a Standard 8 - my very first car! It was one year older than I was, cost me £28.50, bought it because it was cheaper for me and three mates to get to a pop festival than the train fares. Covered many thousands of miles in it for a year, whereupon the nice MOT man pointed out that he couldn't actually find a chassis or floorpan to MOT! I had noticed that my feet got wet when I drove through puddles.........those were the days.
              Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by martin View Post
                You did 100K in a Standard 8 ? bloody hell, I'm impressed. 45 years ago, Granny had a Standard 10, the only advantage was the boot lid, it was just as slow. Martin.
                I did stick a "10" engine in it (948CC), skim the head, add twin SU's, different cam etc, diff from a Spitfire, larger drums from a Herald estate. Would do 90MPH down the M4. I even used to tow a trailer with it. Only down side was the big ends used to last about 20,000 miles before starting to knock. I had a spare short block and could swap out the engine, change over the head etc. over a weekend, in those days couldn't afford to be with out a car! I've still got it but its very sad and neglected - its on the list of cars to restore (again).

                Roger
                Now Stagless but have numerous car projects
                So many cars, so little time!

                Comment

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