Can new relays replace old ones for the electric windows

[Stimpy]

I'm REALLY getting unhappy with this blooming project I'm *trying* to do (have a light for drive). Somehow every problem in the world is descending on me - and it's soul destroying.

Ok cut the violins.

I have separate issues that all point to something. Probably.

First of all:

I rewired the puddle light to a dedicate supply. I did this by cutting 2 of the cables of the 4 cable 'box' thing. (Obv i did this via a tester screwdriver etc)
So I now have nice clean cable in the door while the other end is choc blocked to the original wires.

The above is all fine - no probs

Here comes the issues.

There are now two cables left (remember - the other 2 went to the lights)
These cables are obviously for the electric window.

Q1: What does each cable do? Is one for up and one for down? Is one live and the other earth (not sure how that would work!!)

So I trundled down to halfords and got a pair of 5 blade relays.

No matter how much I try I can't get anything to work on the electric window department with the new relays!
Even if I take a straight live and touch the (spare out-of-door) cable there's no movement from the windows. So any reason why? It's sort of ruining my plans and also getting on my nerves.

The other window does not work either btw (its the old relay - hence my reasons for new independent relays).

I'm going to try to upload some pictures of one of relay but excuse me if they come up as rubbish as my DIY stuff!

[Stimpy]

Ok - I can't insert the files. And I'm an IT specialist. So that's bloody annoying!
It might be because this system is not 'Mac friendly'.
So to get around the issue, and if you have an answer to share, then please ask for them.
FYI My email is

Steve
dot
Humphreys
@
dragonsys
dot
org
dot
uk


I've done it that way to prevent 'email bots/harvesters. I get enough about loans, Viagra, books I don't want, things to make rich etc as it is!

Thanks in advance

Steve

Ooh - forgot to mention in my earlier posts "GOD SAVE THE QUEEN

[KOY 23]

The motor has 2 wires. Connect one to +12v and the other to earth and the window will go up or down. Reverse the connections and the window direction will also reverse.

John.

[GTJones]

The relay is only used to switch +ve current to the switches when the ignition is switched on - the window switches act as double pole switches, these reverse the polarity going to the windows, check if you have 12v going to the relay from the ignition and that when the ignition is switched on it feeds the thermal cut out (Test Both sides to ensure it is working).
This is the feed from 87 (Ignition Relay) to 91 (Thermal cut out).

If you have 12V this far take the switch out of the console and test pins No 8 & 1 for 12v as you can see the earth is switched along with the +ve this then reverses the polarity to the motor.

Hope that helps

Gary

Window layout.JPG

[brian0443]

Steve, the thermal cut outs are very sensitive, so if your window glass is a tight fit they may well trip out before you see any movement. Push against the glass in the direction you hope to move it as you press the switch. You might be as lucky as I have just been.
Brian

[GTJones]

As Brian mentions the thermal relay is sensative so worth spraying silicone into the window channels to help the glass move easily.

Any easy check is to use a direct connection from a jump start pack onto the two wires, just switch them over (+ve & -Ve) to make the window go up or down.

Gary

[Stimpy]

The motor has 2 wires. Connect one to +12v and the other to earth and the window will go up or down. Reverse the connections and the window direction will also reverse.

John.

Spot on! I never knew that so one step forward (towards relay time!)

[Stimpy]

The relay is only used to switch +ve current to the switches when the ignition is switched on - the window switches act as double pole switches, these reverse the polarity going to the windows, check if you have 12v going to the relay from the ignition and that when the ignition is switched on it feeds the thermal cut out (Test Both sides to ensure it is working).
This is the feed from 87 (Ignition Relay) to 91 (Thermal cut out).

If you have 12V this far take the switch out of the console and test pins No 8 & 1 for 12v as you can see the earth is switched along with the +ve this then reverses the polarity to the motor.

Hope that helps

Gary

[ATTACH=CONFIG]16176[/ATTACH]

woah! that diagram is beyond me however the writing gives me more clues -TA

[Stimpy]

Steve, the thermal cut outs are very sensitive, so if your window glass is a tight fit they may well trip out before you see any movement. Push against the glass in the direction you hope to move it as you press the switch. You might be as lucky as I have just been.

Brian

There will br no pressure on the therm thing but thanks for making me aware

[Stimpy]

Ok - I've been working on this for many hours (on Saturday I saw the sun rise when I got out!) I reckon 10 hours total.

So today (about an hour ago) I wired up 2 relays copying a web idea i found. So many sparks later I got to a point where the window went down - through the pair of relays - but not via a switch. But its a step forward and then.......
Then the phone rang - her honda broke down and I have to pick up junior. Right at the time I was getting somewhere!

Jeesh

So - all the tools and bits and pieces (a mountain about 3 foot high) shoved into the footwell. Badness.

But - of course - I will always put my son first

Annoying though these blood 'new' cars - irony really - picking up the boy in a 40 year old car while the 4 year old car doesn't start.
If it wasn't my wife I would snigger!

[GTJones]

Hi Stimpy

Not sure why you are trying to put relays into the circuit? as the Window lift switch acts as a relay? sounds to me that your window switches do not work so before you go to all the trouble i would check the switches.

I presume you have connected the motor wires, one to +ve the other to Earth (-ve)? if the window does not move just switch the wires over then it should move, switch the wires again and it should go in the opposite direction.

If this is K your switches are at fault or they are not wired correctly, they are No 92 & 94 in the diagram and if you look next to the pins you will see a number, make sure they are connected up as per the diagram.

Gary

[Stimpy]

Well I'm fed up now! t's time to call in........THE ELECTRICIANS!!!!

[Stimpy]

I left it with my local car hi fi place, I wish I could remember the name so I could "big them up" but I just go there for my car hifi needs. They used to be called sound gallery but then bought themselves out anyhow the point is ....
They took it off me at around 9.30 am - they worked on it until 7pm then on the next day got a call at 3pm.

I went to get it - trembling at what the price could be - and .... £315

In my books that's not bad at all. There were several issues (including some very bad and dangerous wiring - not me!)
So I am happy with that. I still have one problem that I forgot at the time which is flash-main beam- which does not work hence my other thread

[Goldstar]

I still have one problem that I forgot at the time which is flash-main beam- which does not work hence my other thread

Good to get it fixed. I'm sure you have checked the fuse but my main beam flash wasn't working when I got the car - fuse blown, that or poor contacts at the fuse box sound quite common on that circuit.

good luck

Paul

[Stimpy]

Good to get it fixed. I'm sure you have checked the fuse but my main beam flash wasn't working when I got the car - fuse blown, that or poor contacts at the fuse box sound quite common on that circuit.

good luck

Paul

That seams to be the issue that solved others same problem - thanks for the ideas I'll try them out

According to the chap at the car hifi place where it was fixed he said the old glass fuses can be broken even if they look ok. The reason being that the metal strand inside can expand and detach from the end - so it looks right but intact its damaged. One of the reasons that changed the car fuse industry