drip again

[deanoed]

hello everyone spotted an oil patch under my stag today this is after changing the crankseal 3 times already thought id cracked it this time but wont be changing it again so im going to keep on driving her.its not a lot but annoying its had a new crank with a speedy sleeve fitted new sump gasket so its got to be crankcase pressure?drives perfectly though

[keeny]

Have you checked all breather pipes and have you done a compression check or a cylinder leakage test to try and assess bore wear,it may help you find the source of your problem
Keeny

[deanoed]

hello keeny breathers all ok .compression down on a couple and they vary done 100.000 so not done to bad still drives spot on so will keep her going for a while

[DaveB]

Hi Dean,
I have had a few drips from the back of the engine for some time; traced it to the half moon seals at the back of the cam covers.
cheers
Dave

[GDPR]

What carbs are you running? Non standard carbs don't usually provide a negative crankcase pressure for the breathers needed to minimise oil leaks on a high mileage engine.....

[deanoed]

Hello Russ it's a standard setup only drips once switched off

[SAP]

Hi What compression readings are you getting - just out of interest what reading should you expect to see ?! thanks

[deanoed]

hello the compression ratios when i did them 200 miles ago are...(1. dry 121.. wet 175.)(.3 dry 110..wet 180.)(.5 dry.90..wet 150.)(.7 dry.115..wet..180)(..2. dry 115..wet 130)(..4..dry 115..wet 160)(..6 dry 120..wet 160(..8 dry 100..wet 175) all done with throttle closed would be very interested to know what russ thinks thanks dean

[GDPR]

They seem a bit on the low side dry - I like to see 140 as a start point..... a jump.of over 20 when wet says the cylinders are tired, and would be likely to huff a bit of blow by into the crankcase when the beans are administered...

I would say live with the drip, and keep an eye on your oil usage.

[deanoed]

They seem a bit on the low side dry - I like to see 140 as a start point..... a jump.of over 20 when wet says the cylinders are tired, and would be likely to huff a bit of blow by into the crankcase when the beans are administered...

I would say live with the drip, and keep an eye on your oil usage.

thanks russ exactly what me and ian thought it drives perfectly doesnt burn any oil i know its going to need a complete rebuild in the future so gives me time to save up for it

[nib]

Hi Dean
My car leaked out the rear crank o/s,when the gearbox was changed for a recon it got changed and still it leaked,so me and my mate took the gearbox off,checked the r/c/o/s against the new one we were about to put in and it was identical, no wear or signs of where the oil was leaking but what we did was make sure we put loads of gasket sealant where the sump and horseshoe meet as my mate reckon it looked like it was coming from there,so far so good and that was 3 years ago.
Mark

[milothedog]

They seem a bit on the low side dry - I like to see 140 as a start point..... a jump.of over 20 when wet says the cylinders are tired, and would be likely to huff a bit of blow by into the crankcase when the beans are administered...

I would say live with the drip, and keep an eye on your oil usage.

Hi Russ,

Just to get the full picture, this is a real conundrum. I fitted the new crank with Dean as a bottom end rebuild to get the oil pressure up again, new chains etc as well. The crank supplied has a speedy sleeve fitted. as Dean has stated this is the 3rd seal now and it's done the same as the 1st i.e. after a couple of hundred miles starts to weep.

I have checked all the obvious stuff and there is nothing amiss regards the breather system, there is no crank case pressure you can detect and the engine pulls like train and no sign of smoke on the road, I know this from chasing him at 90 on the A3 I have suggested to Dean about rigging my Sun vacuum gauge to try and see whats going on when your driving although it's not been tried yet.

Sumps been off and resealed and checked with a straight edge and refitted with the extra thick gasket, seal refitted very carefully covered in rubber lube, Spring still in place etc and the crank bolts sealed, Dean even smeared sealant around the back edge of the sleeve in case it was finding it's way under it. I'm inclined to agree with the engine not having the negative pressure it needs but I've seen worse that don't leak, the compression's are probably a bit higher than stated as he done them throttle closed. The only other thing I can think of is that although the sleeve seal face appears and feels ok it's very slightly abrasive causing the premature failures. (been using them for years now at work on Axles and G/Box input & Output shafts without a problem but there is always a first time I suppose)

Any thoughts

Ian

[SAP]

hello the compression ratios when i did them 200 miles ago are...(1. dry 121.. wet 175.)(.3 dry 110..wet 180.)(.5 dry.90..wet 150.)(.7 dry.115..wet..180)(..2. dry 115..wet 130)(..4..dry 115..wet 160)(..6 dry 120..wet 160(..8 dry 100..wet 175) all done with throttle closed would be very interested to know what russ thinks thanks dean

Thanks very much
Steve

[GDPR]

Just noticed you did these with throttle closed.... they should be done with the throttle wide open - like my eyes should have been when I first read the post and replied....