Timing chain tension

[paulbell6]

Hi all, just stumbled across an old thread regarding timing chain tension. It states, i think, that the gap on the tensioner body should be set at 140 thou, that is a 40 thou feeler gauge inserted between The fixed body and the moving tensioner whilst fitted with a shim that stops the unit from automatically operating.
I did mine at the weekend and followed the ROM which I am sure only mentioned the 40 thou feeler gauge being used to set the gap, I am off to the garage shortly to have a good read up, but I would love to get your opinions on the matter, many heads being better than one and all that!

Thanks

Paul

[Ian Durrant]

Someone with either more recent experience than me or a handy copy of the ROM will be along shortly I am sure, but from memory you use a spacer behind the tensioner (new tensioners are supplied with a plastic spacer) and then the feeler gauge goes between the chain and one of the guides. if you only used a .040" feeler gauge then I think you need to start again on that job.

[Ian Durrant]

found my ROM (thought it was in the garage)

You are right the ROM does just state a 40 thou (1mm) feeler gauge. The haynes manual (which is in my garage) is the one that I think mentions a 1mm spacer and a feller gauge between the chain and the curved guide. I have always used the haynes method and i don't lever the adjusting guide, just firm finger pressure while I do the bolts up

[flying farmer]

I think the most important thing is to make sure the oil spray hole in the tensioner is clear of the tensioner body, as it is behind the tensioner head pointing down at the chain.
Many years ago I watched an engine rebuild at the National day, and the guy doing the rebuilding said a 40 thou feeler gauge setting was all that was needed, but at that time I think the rolon tensioners had the oil feed hole in the middle of the rubber pad so all that was needed was to ensure a little free play in the tensioner.
Try doing that with the later type and the spray hole will be blocked and the chain will get very little lubrication.
From what I remember of the last rebuild I did, the plastic spacer was fat enough to ensure the hole remained clear.
Neil

[jbuckl]

Years ago some tensioners I bought came with a fitting tool made in red plastic.
They appear to be about 2mm thick & after removal you press the tensioner back to give it the pre tensioned slipper position....seems to work well, giving an non- running tension on the safe / slack side....never gave any heavy wear issues yet, or undue noise.

tensioners set on the slightly tight side can give rise to problems / early wear though.

[paulbell6]

Morning all, posted this thread last night forgetting I was due to go out for the evening, so sorry for that. My new tensioners came with pre fitted red plastic spacers which must be around 2mm. I think this evening I will remove one of them and check out the oil hole that Neil has mentioned and then after that adjust the tension in a way that ensures oil will get where it needs to. At the same time I will check the maximum usable travel of the tensioner, in that way I will be able to keep a check on the tensioners and their usable life before they need to be changed.

Thank you

Paul

[paulbell6]

Just back from the garage having dismantled the chain tensioners again. From what I can see there are no oil feed holes whatsoever that supply oil to the tensioners. I looked at the new ones that I have which are Rolon and I compared them to the old ones which are Renolds. The only difference being that the Renolds ones have a small hole in the centre of the black "nylon" piece that bears onto the chain. Looking into the carrier sections again there are no holes to feed oil. At the moment I am assuming that the design is correct and that the oil must be splash fed via the flinger mounted on the crank. Has anyone else come across this conundrum? And should I press on regardless?

Thanks

Paul