new fuel pump in

[Don McLean]

New thread, same issue! Got the new SU Fuel Pump (electronic) today (after Rimmers sent a bag of washers instead on first try) and already have it fitted. Turning engine over and this time it's coughing but still not quite kicking into life. I know the carbs will take time to fill up (remember its a Holley carb), but how much time? Things were getting encouraging just as the battery all but died. Currently charging but can't wait to try again! Don

[AlanD]

keep at it Don,

you will get there

Alan

[Don McLean]

OK, tried again, turning the engine over for long periods. Occasional coughing but nothing else, and looks like dry plugs. At my wits end guys! I feel like I've got a perfectly healthy car that just wont start. I'm in Scotland.....and it's sunny! I don't have much time!

[Seaking]

Don just picked up on this thread do you have petrol comimg out of pipe at carbs?? do you have a blocked filter crushed pipe air lock in tank??? is timimg set corectly ? plug leads in right order

[Don McLean]

Petrol at carbs, plugs in right order. timing was correct before this problem (fuel pump) arose. What about the Holley carburetor float chambers? Do I need to prime them or something. When I look throught he throttle flap the two chambers below are wet with petrol, but the other two are not!

[Don McLean]

Hold on that thought, I've found a useful Holley Carb video on youtube, and have confirmed that the float chamber level is set correctly.

[V Mad]

Switch on igntion, check fuel pump is ticking, then stops within 10 to 15 secs. This means carb is full with fuel and should start. If pump keeps going the carb may be flooding. It is correct that the two secondary throttle valves are dry; these only operate at speed.

Note: when you pump the throttle, the Holley squirts fuel into the primary inlets; pump too much and you may flood it. Do not pump when engine is warm or it will not start.

The Holley has a test hole in each float chamber; remove plug and fuel should only just dribble out. Level is adjustable.

[Don McLean]

Thanks V Mad! The pump does just as you suggest. And carb is full at the right level since I checked the sight hole. I've been trying to start without pumping since the garage is warm.

[Seaking]

Don do you have electronic ignition? have a good spark on each plug? as sounds like carb is ok have you checked coil to see if its failing. balast resistor are you getting correct voltage when cranking over?

[wilf]

Thanks V Mad! The pump does just as you suggest. And carb is full at the right level since I checked the sight hole. I've been trying to start without pumping since the garage is warm.

Then pump it some! If it has no choke then 3 or 4 pumps before starting is the usual way to get them running. Do a check and make sure fuel is squirting out of the pump jets each time you pump the pedal.

[Firept]

Don.
Sounds like the ballast switch on the starter motor may have failed this shorts out the ballast cable / resistor when starting and puts full voltage to the coil.
When you let go the key is that when it coughs? If yes then get a short jumper cable and run from the positive of the battery to the lucar terminal on the coil opposite side to the distributor (usually marked either "+" or "SW")and try again just dont leave in place when the engine is running, If this cures it it could be the cable or the contacts inside the starter solenoid.

Paul.

[Don McLean]

Then pump it some! If it has no choke then 3 or 4 pumps before starting is the usual way to get them running. Do a check and make sure fuel is squirting out of the pump jets each time you pump the pedal.

I have been pumping the pedal on occassions too, makes no difference. Could be coming round full circle to coil. Remember I replaced it with 12v incorrectly then went back to original when it began to look like a fuel problem.

[Don McLean]

Don.
Sounds like the ballast switch on the starter motor may have failed this shorts out the ballast cable / resistor when starting and puts full voltage to the coil.
When you let go the key is that when it coughs? If yes then get a short jumper cable and run from the positive of the battery to the lucar terminal on the coil opposite side to the distributor (usually marked either "+" or "SW")and try again just dont leave in place when the engine is running, If this cures it it could be the cable or the contacts inside the starter solenoid.

Paul.

Thanks Paul, but coughing is while engine turns over. I've just checked the original 6V coil for resistance (trying to climb the learning curve!) and I'm getting 3.4 ohms on the primary, and 9000 on secondary. Trying hard to find intended resistance of coil since it's unlabeled, but assuming that it should be 1.3-1.5 ohms on primary if its a Lucas 15 C6 or 15 P6. Would this suggest the coil is a dud!
Don

[Firept]

Don.
From memory I think it should either be 1.4 ohms ish to 2.4 ohms depending if its a 6v or 12v coil (ballast - non ballast) is it a standard Lucas coil?
While the engine is cranking are you still getting 12V at the + , SW terminal? (should drop to 6V when the engine is running ).


Paul.

[Don McLean]

Don.
From memory I think it should either be 1.4 ohms ish to 2.4 ohms depending if its a 6v or 12v coil (ballast - non ballast) is it a standard Lucas coil?
While the engine is cranking are you still getting 12V at the + , SW terminal? (should drop to 6V when the engine is running ).


Paul.

Paul
Again with the learning curve, am I measuring the voltage across the positive and negative coil terminals?
Don