list of jobs resulting from the MOT

[Rubce]

Well, Ursula failed her MOT today. Suppose I had it coming as last year she sailed through.

Track rods ends require replacing. Feel confident doing this job as I had to do it on my very first car (1978 Opel)

Front Lower suspension ball joints require replacing. Would you recommend changing the bushes in the drag arms struts and tracking arms at the same time?:shock:

Welding required at various points on the outriggers.I am not confident to do the welding myself but am happy to do the prep work i,e remove carpets, remove the underseal etc.

The last one is a bit odd. :shock:They have warned me that both the rear drive shafts are loose on the flanges of the differrential with the setscrewsloose:shock:Any suggestions? Can I simply renew the setscrews and tighten upor does it mean a replacement diff?

Off on holiday tomorrow (not in the Stag!) so plenty ofopportunity to read the ROM and Haynes!!!!

Regards

Bruce

[John]

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Track rods ends require replacing. Feel confident doing this job as I had to do it on my very first car (1978 Opel)

Easy job, though you'll want to get the tracking done afterward.

Front Lower suspension ball joints require replacing. Would you recommend changing the bushes in the drag arms struts and tracking arms at the same time?:shock:

Utter pain in the a#%e. I'd recommend letting someone else do these balljoints. See
http://stagownersclub.mywowbb.com/forum1/1840.html Given the relative cheapness, I'd go for some new bushes since you'll almost certainly have to remove the arms anyway.

Welding required at various points on the outriggers. I am not confident to do the welding myself but am happy to do the prep work i,e remove carpets, remove the underseal etc.

Welding really isn't that difficult, though upside-down is a little more of a challenge.

The last one is a bit odd. :shock:They have warned me that both the rear drive shafts are loose on the flanges of the differrential with the setscrews loose:shock: Any suggestions? Can I simply renew the setscrews and tighten up or does it mean a replacement diff?

This sound's like a job for 8 new set screws and nyloc nuts to me. I think a new diff would be overkill!

[mad cyclist]

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i would just tighten the nuts on the diff flanges!

i'm with you on the welding Heart surgery is easy if you know what your doing!!

didn't fail on wiper blades though...huurah to the forum!!

rgds Nick

[John]

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i would just tighten the nuts on the diff flanges!

..but why were they loose? If the locking nuts aren't locking, it will happen again and drive shaft flayling around at 80 could get expensive.

[Marco Polo]

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One of the drive shafts was loose on my car too! The frightening thing was I'd owned the car 2 years before I noticed it and the car had been through the equivalent of 2 MOTs as well.

I would recommend changing the bolts and the nuts. Also checking the the others while I was crawling around underneath.

The unexplained occasional clunking noise disappeared afterwards too!

regards,

Raoul

[stustag]

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My half shafts get greased every year and have new bolts and nyloc nuts fitted everytime, I have so far never had a problem with them coming loose.

The nyloc nut is only good for one use so must be replaced everytime without fail!:shock:

Stuart

[Rubce]

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The attached photo shows them as setscrews (GHF120) but you guys are taking about nyloc nuts and bolts. I am puzzled:shock:

Regards

Bruce

[Marco Polo]

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Bruce, I thought you were referring to the bolts 107960, for yours I would renew the spring washers, and retorque the bolts.

regards,

Raoul

[John]

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Exactly - I was talking 109760 too.

[Rubce]

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Chaps

Having restudied the diagram I am now not sure which ones the MOT tester was referring to. Probably worth replacing GHF332, GHF120, TN3209 and 107960 as if one end is loose it has probably affected the other end as well.

Stustag mentioned regreasing the half shafts. Is it worth me doing that at the same time? What is involved?

Thanks for all your help.

Regards

Bruce

[stustag]

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Hi Bruce

This is a fairly simple but messy job.

Jack the car up and place axle stands under the cross member, loosen the four inner nuts and bolts on 107960.(You will need to loosen the handbrake for each bolt!)

Remove the wire or tie tags holding the bellow on.

Slide the spline apart and clean with parifin or similar the grease using Graphite grease if you can get it ot similar ask motor facator when purchasing.

Re assembly with new tie tags and new nyloc nuts!

Takes about 2 hours with practice!

Stuart

[NickA]

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Rubce wrote:

Front Lower suspension ball joints require replacing. Would you recommend changing the bushes in the drag arms struts and tracking arms at the same time?:shock:

I've just done mine, not a difficult job; you just need a length of pipe big enough to go over the ball jointand a sturdy vice to press it in with. If the bushes haven't been replaced for a while then I'd do them at the same time as you'll have the track control arm off anyway. Same applies to the drag strut bushes and maybe the anti roll bar end links.

Much bigger discussion is whether to fit rubber or poly as replacement. If you don't fancy doing it I think Chris Witor offers exchange arms. I imagine the other suppliers do as well.

[mad cyclist]

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John wrote:

i would just tighten the nuts on the diff flanges!

..but why were they loose? If the locking nuts aren't locking, it will happen again and drive shaft flayling around at 80 could get expensive.

hi john

were they tighted correctly in the first place,? but you are making me think they would be best replaced but at least by tightening it would possibly eliminate one of the potential causes.

rgds Nick