Front Hub assembly question

[Nigeyboy]

Hi

Today, I have assembled one side of my front suspension / hub / caliper around the vertical link. I encountered a small challenge when trying to tighten the stub axle to the vertical link to the recommended 65 lbf ft torque setting: the new nyloc for this application turned the whole stub axle in the nice new bearings once the nylon part of the nyloc was reached. This meant there was way too much end float at the other end of the hub (road side of syub axle) and resulted in the hole for the split pin actually protruding from the top of the castellated nut.

Can anyone advise my how to stighten the stub axle to the vertical link to both get more of the stub axle pulling through and to achieve the required torque setting?

Also, I had a similar problem with the nyloc on the top of the new damper once I had assembled the springs / damper / etc. together, as this just span the damper strut - so any ideas here gratefully received

Thanks
Nigel

[73stagman]

Hi

Today, I have assembled one side of my front suspension / hub / caliper around the vertical link. I encountered a small challenge when trying to tighten the stub axle to the vertical link to the recommended 65 lbf ft torque setting: the new nyloc for this application turned the whole stub axle in the nice new bearings once the nylon part of the nyloc was reached. This meant there was way too much end float at the other end of the hub (road side of syub axle) and resulted in the hole for the split pin actually protruding from the top of the castellated nut.

Can anyone advise my how to stighten the stub axle to the vertical link to both get more of the stub axle pulling through and to achieve the required torque setting?

Also, I had a similar problem with the nyloc on the top of the new damper once I had assembled the springs / damper / etc. together, as this just span the damper strut - so any ideas here gratefully received

Thanks
Nigel

The damper issue has been talked about before here. There were a number of suggestions.... You can use two nuts instead of the lock nut (there was a reason why that might not suit but I cant remember.. not enough thread perhaps.) You can use a pair of soft jaw grips on the damper rod... other than that I cant help with this one.
With the stub axle... you either need to press the taper into the vertical link with a vertical press and suitable tooling or you can try to pull it in with a plain nut first... torque it over tight to ensure the sub axle is pulled in properly. Then remove the plain nut then fit the nyloc nut.

[GDPR]

Or you can zip it up with an air wrench to seat the taper then torque from there. I've found air wrenches due to the hammer action overcome the nylon quite easily - if you haven't got one, the bloke down your local tyre emporium will do it for you - just tell him not to go too tight

[elvimto]

Nigel,
I have a tool made by vice grip it looks like mole grips only it has a chain on it, you wrap the chain around the spindle where it will not harm any assembly clamp it and then you can torque it up. I would still as been said use a plain nut to pull up the spindle then install the nylock nut.

cheers Stuart