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    starter motor

    Technically Speaking on page 42 of July issue magazine referred to the 'dreaded Stag click' when nothing happens when turning the key. I have the same problem - the solenoid clicks in and out but thats all, no cranking. Appears this is not uncommon, anyone know the cause?

    #2
    Welcome to the forum. Don't be shy, you can introduce yourself...................

    The Stag 'click' can be one of several things, or a combination of more than one.
    • Poor battery terminal connections - remove, clean and tighten.
    • Poor connection at the multi-connector down near the starter motor - separate, clean and re-connect
    • Poor connections at the starter itself - remove, clean and replace
    • Worn starter solenoid - connection being made, but not strong enough to turn starter - replace
    • Worn starter motor - replace
    • Worn ignition switch - replace


    There are kits available to introduce a relay into the system. These sometimes work on their own, but I believe they are only masking an underlying problem and should only be fitted once the problem has been resolved to prevent future overloading of the ignition switch.
    Dave
    1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by DJT View Post
      Welcome to the forum. Don't be shy, you can introduce yourself...................

      The Stag 'click' can be one of several things, or a combination of more than one.
      • Poor battery terminal connections - remove, clean and tighten.
      • Poor connection at the multi-connector down near the starter motor - separate, clean and re-connect
      • Poor connections at the starter itself - remove, clean and replace
      • Worn starter solenoid - connection being made, but not strong enough to turn starter - replace
      • Worn starter motor - replace
      • Worn ignition switch - replace


      There are kits available to introduce a relay into the system. These sometimes work on their own, but I believe they are only masking an underlying problem and should only be fitted once the problem has been resolved to prevent future overloading of the ignition switch.
      Dave I think that plug just does the OD,and reverse light .The multi plug which stopped my starter working at ND was by the steering column.Cleaned it and all was good again.

      Cheers Steve
      Last edited by Stagdad; 20 August 2012, 18:05.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Stagdad View Post
        Dave I think that plug just does the OD,and reverse light .The multi plug which stopped my starter working at ND was by the steering column.Cleaned it and all was good again.

        Cheers Steve
        Steve, the red/white wire goes through it. There is a loop on the MOD cars, but it is 'cut' and the inhibitor switch is linked in for autos.

        IMG_0036.jpg

        This the 'gearbox' side of the plug for a MOD car. The red/white loop is clealy visible. On an auto this is effectively cut and fed to two of the connections on the inhibitor switch (the other two are for the reversing lights)
        Last edited by DJT; 20 August 2012, 19:11.
        Dave
        1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

        Comment


          #5
          Right Dave, so there are 2 plugs to check for bad connections.

          Cheers Steve

          Comment


            #6
            Dave. Many thanks for your advice. Could be a poor connection but, after several attempts of turning the key, the motor will generally crank with plenty of power. Will take your advice anyway.
            Have had the Stag now for 23 years, 1973 Mk 1/2 manual, white. Suppose the motor does not owe me anything.
            Cheers Tony (sapphire)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by DJT View Post
              Steve, the red/white wire goes through it. There is a loop on the MOD cars, but it is 'cut' and the inhibitor switch is linked in for autos.

              [ATTACH=CONFIG]17286[/ATTACH]

              This the 'gearbox' side of the plug for a MOD car. The red/white loop is clealy visible. On an auto this is effectively cut and fed to two of the connections on the inhibitor switch (the other two are for the reversing lights)
              So on a MOD car it may be worth joining the loop before it gets to the plug and do away with a joint that could give trouble.
              Cheers Steve

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Stagdad View Post
                So on a MOD car it may be worth joining the loop before it gets to the plug and do away with a joint that could give trouble.
                Cheers Steve
                I always reckoned so - this is one of many jobs on my 'to do' list

                Cheers

                Julian

                Comment


                  #9
                  I had caught the "click" myself and tried everything, relay mod, contacts, heat shields, new battery... You allow more and more clicks and then one day the car never starts anymore (been there, done that). The cure is: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISA...E:L:OC:FR:3160
                  No more troubles, I had one on my E-type and it never let me down. One day you'll be in the traffic jams at night in summer with rain, electric fans and lights working and you'll be very happy to have a light power hungry starter.
                  Cheers
                  Tony

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks Tony. Might go there when I have exhausted the cheaper alternatives.

                    Comment

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