Winter-ising my Stag

[Al_Stag]

Hi guys,

My stag was not bought as a "fine-weather" car and as such I intend to use it over winter (it's not a daily driver, though, that's my motorbike). Having ridden day-in day-out through snow and -12 degrees last year from Andover -> Oxford which isn't much fun I'm going to take salvation in the form of four-wheels on the odd day that it's particularly treacherous.

To that end, given the amount of salt and corrosive crap on the road along with the much colder weather, what are the things I should be doing now to prepare for winter useage?

Currently my list is:

1. Check underseal is solid everywhere underneath the car
2. Make sure all gaiters are zip-tied in place, present and not-cracked and all joints underneath said gaters are greased
3. Make sure I have stocks of FS-365 as used for the motorbike.... or will this damage the chrome? ATF-50 is the other stuff I'm looking at ... previously didnt' buy it for the motorbike as the lacquer has already bubbled off the fork legs but thinking I might for the stag

One last question: I've seen a "Kenlowe warm start" recommended - what does this do? Is it needed? As a linked aside, do the carbs suffer from 'carb icing' at all or is that only an issue with 'exposed' motorbike carbs?

Cheers,

Al.

[jleyton]

First of all, I would definitely fill every single crevice and box section and nook and cranny with lots of cavity wax. I use Bilt Hamber's Dynax S50 which is brilliant.

If you haven't done so already, I would also thoroughly flush the cooling system and refill with good quality anti-freeze I do a 33% mix.

I've never heard of carb icing on Stags but I guess many people don't use theirs much when it's cold.

As for thed Kenlowe warm start, I think this is essentially a mains powered water heater that simply warms the coolant up before starting. Seems like a reasonable idea (most engine wear occurs on a cold engine) but I think they are pretty expensive. You'll find the Stag warms up pretty quickly anyway (much warmer than a bike )

Good on you for using it through the winter, but do look after the old girl

Cheers

Julian

[Stevetubbyturbo]

Never winterised a stag but did my Morris 1000

I cleaned all the underside and then waxoyled.

Covered all chrome in Vasoline

Checked anti freeze was at a suitable strength (should be in stag all year round, but think everyone knows that now thanks to the great advice on here)

Check heater works and warm air gets to the screen

Check window wash has screenwash of suitable strength to prevent freezing

Check wiper blades clear screen

My dad had a warm start on his rover 800 basically it warms the coolent before you start the car therefore making cold starting easier.

Hope this helps

Steve

[dasadrew]

Smear lubricant (Vaseline or similar) on the contact surfaces between door, boot and window rubbers and metal to stop them freezing to one another then tearing the rubber as you prise them apart. Standard practice here in Southern Bavaria!

[martin]

Hi Al, firstly, good for you, there aren't enough of us ! My old girl fired up first time after the Welsh AGM, at -18F, they really don't mind the cold. Hot Start is expensive but I can't see any reason why not, but don't drive off with it still connected, lots have believe it or not. I totally agree with Julian about the Dynax, everywhere ! Including bumpers and wheels, they'll quickly look horrible 'cos you can't wash them, but it does preserve them, and it's easy enough to get off once the salt has gone. One last point, don't forget the old girl's rear wheel drive and has about 150 bhp. Enjoy ! Martin.

[404ROD]

Be careful of underseal. It depends on how long it has been on the car. Eventually it dries up and dampness/condensation gets between it and the bodywork and you end up with rust which you cannot see. When I purchased my car back in 1984 one of the first things I did was to remove the underseal, and what a messy job that was. The underside of my car is now in the same colour as the rest and is of stone chip paint. I can now check the underside and see what is going on and take any necessary steps to prevent any rust getting hold.

Rod

[Andy Rundell]

I can confirm that they are fine to use all-year round, good advice from others...... one thing I do is have an electric fan heater sitting on the back seat, plug in when I get home in the evening (but not switch on at the wall), 10 mins before I leave the following morning I switch it on (from inside the house). Warms up the inside of the car, helps with de-icing, both of which come in handy when it is -15 at 6.30 in the morning.

I stick a couple of bags of sand in the boot in the snow, helps for some extra grip.

........... Andy

[Firept]

Al.
All of the above, agree with Andy the fan heater set to come on 15mins before you leave is a good idea, I use one on my daily in the winter to clear all the frost off of the glass.
If you want a Kenlowe warm start I may still have one but it will be 20 years old at least they are wonderful it brings the engine almost up to working temperature send me a PM. but you do need to remember that its connected before you drive off!!
Remember to make sure all of the locks and the locking mechanism are also well lubricated as they tend to get water in them and freeze so you cant get the key in dont forget the boot lock, remember "hot keys"? ( 160642952673 )

I was thinking of fitting a "damp chaser" to mine these are made for Pianos and organs where they suffer from damp in churches etc and are low power 15 to 20 Watt tubular heaters but just enough to keep the ambient temperature up may be worth a thought.

Paul.

[Al_Stag]

Hi guys, thanks for all the tips! Not checked back for a little while. It's going to be compounded by storing it outside as, unfortunately, we're garage-less (for the mean time, anyway, mr planning officer). Paul, thanks very much for the offer of the warmstart I'll have a chat with SWMBO as we're fairly tight when it comes to space.

Julian, you mention putting the Dynax on the bumpers and wheels - is that literally as in smearing it on the front and rear? I was going to use the ACF-50 for the outside paint and chrome-work (hey it's used for aeroplanes so it's gotta be good), but I feel it's probably a bit late in the year to strip and re-underseal the underneath? It doesn't look too bad last time I was under there. I'm busy trying to fill what holes I can, too, but haven't dared remove the sill protectors yet. In terms of parking it on concrete/pebbles I've been reading that moisture from the ground likes to rise up and play havoc - how much of an issue has this been found to be? I'll also invest in a new car cover I think (one that's actually waterproof!)

I know that exacerbating the rust is fairly inevitable and that'll I'll probably have cause to learn MIG welding in the new year, but unfortunately my hand's rather forced.

Cheers,

Al.

[Al_Stag]

Also, is there any benefit in running with the hardtop as opposed to the soft-top? I have both, but the hard-top has seen better days (on the most recent removal the headlining is holding the drivers-side "anchor" mechansim...

[Andy Rundell]

Many like to fit the hardtop for the extra visibility, heated rear window and change to coupe-character...... Personally I have stuck with the soft-top for full winter use...... But each to their own

......... Andy

[martin]

Hi Al, your biggest enemy, after the salt, is condensation, so any wax sprayed into cavities is a good thing. Boot lid, bonnet and sills suffer most but all is vulnerable, this is getting to sound dramatic but I don't mean it too. Car cover is a great idea, but do remember to take it off at least once a week to give the old girl an airing. A very thin spray coat of Dynax is all you'll need for bumpers and wheels. I'd be inclined to use the hard top if you get snow, it can get quite heavy ! Martin.