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    Warning light cluster multimedia upgrade

    Weak self-cancelling and a near inaudible relay are well documented features of Stag’s (and probably other cars of the time) signalling indicators. For me this has contributed to the potentially hazardous situation of driving through a junction whilst signalling an unintended manoeuvre. Typically this happens soon after the Stag emerges from hibernation in the Spring before I re-familiarise with the ‘70s controls once again.
    However this year I set about some modifications to hopefully reduce or even eliminate this particular risk. The first part of the multi-media upgrade was the installation of piezo sounders on the right and left indicator circuits by soldering units on the back of the warning cluster (see pictures). These could have been wired-in elsewhere in the loom but attaching to the warning cluster was convenient and brings the sound output up close to the driving position. The sound is loud but not a particularly pleasant note. I toned them down by attaching small blocks of polystyrene to each piezo but it’s still a bit of a squawk and I will be looking for suitable devices with more pleasing sound in the future.
    A supplementary measure was using ultra bright LEDs to replace all the miniature filament bulbs (except the ignition warning as I have a suspicion that current flows via the bulb to activate the alternator fields. Or is this not true with the Stag alternator designs? Can someone confirm?)
    LED Illumination is significantly brighter and I would expect thousands of hours life expectancy and improved reliability due to hard wiring versus dodgy screw-in bulb contacts. The light output is more directional and perhaps does not illuminate the segments quite as uniformly as filaments. A minor downside is the loss of the brake circuit warning light check at ignition switch on. There are simple work-arounds although I’m not too bothered by the loss of this function.
    I can now report after a summer of driving that there have been no known incidences of ‘inadvertent indicating’ since these modifications, the sound output is unmistakable even at speed with the hood down. Hope this is of interest to someone.

    Pictures show new LEDs & piezos, LED illuminated, standard filament illuminated for comparison.
    Attached Files

    #2
    Gosh, that looks really neat! Any chance of posting details of the LED's, resistors and whatever else you used? Are the any traps like warning lights which illuminate by grounding or by getting currrent regarding which way round the LED's go?

    Drew
    The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

    Comment


      #3
      This is so neat, well done and inspiring. As Drew has asked, any information, links to suppliers etc would be very much appreciated

      Andrew
      Yellow Rules OK

      Comment


        #4
        nice job there. Two thoughts for improvement come to mind:

        Using coloured instead of white LEDs should improve brightness and illumination even further.
        Save one piezo beeper by attaching the piezo directly to the flasher relay.

        Regarding parts: those LEDs are quite common parts now, in germany Conrad, ELV or Reichelt stock them. The usual high-brightness 5mm types are desigend rto run at 70mA so you would need a 220 ohms resistor in series at 14.8V

        Comment


          #5
          Are those 470 ohms resistors you are using? It's a bit difficult to see in the pictures. That'll give around 20mA in the LEDs then. Certainly, modern high intensity LEDs can give vastly improved light outout, but perhaps with a limited beamwidth.

          A nice neat idea. MES LEDs are available, I wonder if LES ones are. That's the bulb type in the warning light cluster. I think.

          Of course, 1 piezo sounder could be used with a couple of diodes! I wonder if the whole lot could be fitted inside the cluster with the sound coming through a hole in the middle? I have a 'few' spare clusters. Maybe I'll have a look!

          Alternator question. You are right, the current through the ignition warning lamp is used to 'start' the alternator. If the lamp is 2.2W then that's about 180mA. Who's to say if 20 or 70 mA would be enough? Could easily be.

          You also made a comment about the brake warning light. If that was changed to an LED also, then it should then work as orginally intended - again with reduced light output!

          Cheers,
          Mike.
          Mine since 1987. Finished a 20+ year rebuild in 2012. One of many Triumphs and a 1949 LandRover!

          Comment


            #6
            Some further information on components and construction.

            470 ohm pack 50 £0.99
            20 x White LED 5mm - Ultra Bright(13000mcd) £1.69

            both off EBay, probably more than one supplier will stock these items. I note that equivalent "wide beam" LEDs are also available which might illuminate the segments more uniformly.

            Cut off the original lamp screw-in bases to leave a copper stub to solder the LED legs to. Check the +/- polarity of each lamp as the LEDs will only function wired correctly.

            Comment


              #7
              Excelent idea.
              2 points It may be worth trying "warm white" LED's as these are more the colour of tungsten lamps (3200degK) and may give a better illumination could be worth a try and also very lightly "frost" the end of the LED as this is where the focus point of the light is and at 1,300mcd that should be more than enough.
              I have but not yet got round to fitting the sounder from a Ford for the lights on warning which gives the nice "bong-bong" type sound which is a bit more harmonious than the piezo sounders, I know on our trucks at work where the older ones are fitted with the piezo sounders they often have bluetack or some other form of silencing material stuffed in them as it dries you crazy keep beeping.
              Great job

              Paul.

              Comment


                #8
                I had the same problem and used a sounder on the indicators. Yes noisy but it did the job. I repositioned the warning cluster into a home made pod that sat on the central speaker point so warning lights can be easily seen. The existing cable reaches the pod so no extra wiring is required. The pictures show my MK 1 version. I never did get round to the MK 2 version that would have incorporated a GPS attachment. Sorry about the quality of picture.
                Peter, CuparPB060048.jpgPB060051.jpg

                Comment


                  #9
                  You could have run the car low on fuel before taking that picture Peter so that we could have seen ALL the lights illuminated

                  Seriously though, a good idea and certainly no missing it.

                  Cheers

                  Julian

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jleyton View Post
                    You could have run the car low on fuel before taking that picture Peter so that we could have seen ALL the lights illuminated

                    Seriously though, a good idea and certainly no missing it.

                    Cheers
                    Julian

                    That was in the days when I could afford to keep the tank topped up with petrol.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      One for the "How to" section?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Mike Stevens View Post
                        Are those 470 ohms resistors you are using? It's a bit difficult to see in the pictures. That'll give around 20mA in the LEDs then. Certainly, modern high intensity LEDs can give vastly improved light outout, but perhaps with a limited beamwidth.

                        A nice neat idea. MES LEDs are available, I wonder if LES ones are. That's the bulb type in the warning light cluster. I think.

                        Of course, 1 piezo sounder could be used with a couple of diodes! I wonder if the whole lot could be fitted inside the cluster with the sound coming through a hole in the middle? I have a 'few' spare clusters. Maybe I'll have a look!

                        Alternator question. You are right, the current through the ignition warning lamp is used to 'start' the alternator. If the lamp is 2.2W then that's about 180mA. Who's to say if 20 or 70 mA would be enough? Could easily be.

                        You also made a comment about the brake warning light. If that was changed to an LED also, then it should then work as orginally intended - again with reduced light output!

                        Cheers,
                        Mike.
                        You have to be careful with the brake warning lamp as on some versions of the car the warning lamp is wired in series with the oil pressure warning lamp. changing the brake warning lamp to an led will prevent the oil warning lamp from working. I dont understand why Triumph in their wisdom wired some cars this way as the oil pressure warning lamp and oil pressure switch will only ever see 6 volts, Ive changed my oil pressure lamp to 6v and it is as bright as the other lamps. It wouldnt be a big issue to change the wiring arrangement but I would like to know the reasoning behind it, surley they werent trying to save on a short length of cable!!
                        Last edited by Dave M; 25 September 2012, 13:43.
                        sigpic

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Wiring the brake failure warning and oil pressure lights in series causes the former to glow at ignition on (engine not running, no oil pressure) as a means to verify the circuit and bulb are working at every start up. A genuine brake system failure allows the warning light to earth via the PDWA and 12v flows through the bulb causing it to illuminate brightly.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ah that explains it, seems obvious now many thanks for the info. My low level switch on my header tank is connected in parallel with the PDWA switch so in theory that circuit is tested as well (well the lamp is). If the brake warning light illuminates brightly when the engine is running this means I either have a brake fault or low level in the header tank, either of which its a case of stopping the car and checking the fault.
                            sigpic

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Dave. Easy to find out which it is ....if it doesn't stop!.
                              Paul.

                              Comment

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