Heater.

[Staghound]

I took my Stag heater apart a while back,inevitably I can't remember what goes where......Do any of you fine chaps know where I can locate a drawing showing an exploded view??

Thanks Andrew.

[SaskStag]

Not a fine chap , but here are some photos of the innards and the untampered version. Couldn't find a diagram either. The heater matrix is out in the 'exploded ' view.

DSC_0109.jpg Heater assembly.jpg DSC_0104.jpg DSC_0102.jpg

Tanya

[jleyton]

In his 'Bavarian Stag' thread, Drew had loads of heater pics when he completely dismantled his. Should be worth a search.

Only trouble is that everything Drew does is so damned good that it makes me jealous

Cheers

Julian

[martin]

That third photograph is superb, showing the cables, rods and heater valve as it does, I may print and keep !
All of those would be worth putting in the tech section. Martin,

[edd]

Whilst at the nec show I picked up a rimmers catalogue. It has a virtual breakdown of nearly every part of the car together with a part reference number. I will still price compare parts over the different suppliers but I have to say rimmers book is a excellent help to rebuild showing every nut bolt and washer. I'm sure they would post a copy if asked.
Edd

[dasadrew]

All of my heater pics are here:

http://s221.photobucket.com/albums/d...cpZZ1QQtppZZ24


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Additionally, my Heater Disassembly Notes (might help)

Stag Heater Disassembly

1Remove the cable of the LH vertical slide lever (OFF - FRESH)


2 x green cable clips
1 x P-Clip fixed with Philips screw
1 x cable attachment clevis pin.

2Remove the cable of the RH vertical slide lever (OFF - SCREEN - CAR)


2 x green cable clips
1 x P-Clip fixed with Philips screw
1 x cable attachment clevis pin.

3Remove the cable of the Top horizontal slide lever (COLD - HOT)


2 x green cable clips
1 x cable attachment clevis pin.

4Remove the slide lever assembly


pull off foam block
remove 2 Philips screws which have their heads under the foam block

5Remove the square central air outlet duct


4 x tiny Philips screws.

6Remove the Air Intake Panel


8 x tiny Philips screws, then the panel can be slid out and removed

6. Side plates

Remove the star washers (3 on LH side plate, 1 on RH side plate) retaining the flap operating shafts

Remove the rubber bung on the LH side plate

7Remove LH Side plate


2 x mini Philips screws on the plate surface
7 x mini Philips screws on the circumference flange (1 is well hidden under an air flap hinge shaft)
2 x normal Philips screws on the straight sections of the flange

Pull off sideplate noting that there is body sealer and sticky tape which have to be overcome.

8Remove RH Side plate


Noting the position of the levers, remove the cranks from the end of the flap spindle shafts

1 x mini Philips screw on the plate surface
7 x mini Philips screws on the circumference flange (1 is well hidden under an air flap hinge shaft)
2 x normal Philips screws on the straight sections of the flange

Pull off sideplate noting that there is body sealer and sticky tape which have to be overcome. Manoeuvre sideplate past the heater matrix pipes.

9Heater Matrix and air regulation flaps.


The heater matrix can now be carefully removed..
The air regulation flaps can be removed. Note their position and orientation.

10Motor assembly


Remove the 6 mini Philips screws (2 per side) and remove the motor assembly

11Motor cowling

Remove the 18 mini Philips screws securing the cowling to the motor end plates

(4 rows of 4 screws, one row of 2 screws)

12Motor vanes


Remove the plastic ventilator vane wheels from the motor spindles. Note the position of the vane wheels and their direction of rotation. It should be possible by twisting one vane wheel against the other to gradually withdraw it from the spindle. Then grip the spindle with a suitable wrench and remove the second vane wheel by twisting and withdrawing. It should not be necessary to release the metal clips which grip the spindle centre hub.

The motor end plates now are free to be removed.

If the plates are going to be refurbished, then it is now time to drill out the two rivets holding the resistor to one of the end plates.

[jleyton]

Typical of Drew - scant attention to detail

Only kidding, of course. It's just because I'm jealous

Cheers

Julian

[SaskStag]

Wish my hubby had made detailed notes like that! He was on heater duty and complained the whole way through, and then lost two cable grips which had to be ordered! I did replace the worn and brittle bits of foam and had the blower unit checked over by a specialist while the assemby was out. I still have the old matrix, at first I thought it was rusted out, but when hubby removed it, we found it was made of copper! Seemed a shame to put the new boring steel one in!!
Tanya

[milothedog]

Are you sure it's made of Steel and not Aluminum or other Alloy

Ian.

[SaskStag]

Probably aluminium, its grey anyway....... (notice I spell aluminium correctly....and grey!!)
T

[milothedog]

Probably aluminium, its grey anyway....... (notice I spell aluminium correctly....and grey!!)
T

Must be my "Spill Chucker" on the laptop not working properly

I asked because I wondered if someone was producing an alternative modern replacement. (like the throw away ones cars have now)

Ian

[SaskStag]

LOL

I got my replacement from the usual R supplier. Much lighter in weight compared to the old one.
Tanya

[grumpy2]

I'm guessing the laver and cable in photo 4 with the tape is the fresh air vent? Mine won't close so it must be stuck somewhere the photo will help me locate the problem. Cheers

[martin]

I'm guessing the laver and cable in photo 4 with the tape is the fresh air vent? Mine won't close so it must be stuck somewhere the photo will help me locate the problem. Cheers

Your speeling's no beter than moin

[Staghound]

I most humbly thank you all for your help in his matter, it will take a lot of the guess work out of the reassembly.

Many THANKS, Andrew.