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    Dash Rheostat Seized - Any tips?

    My Lucas rheostat that supposedly dims the instrumentation lighting is seized solid.

    Had a search on the forum but could not find anything, do they free off or is it futile to even try?

    Tried a drop of Plus Gas but no joy so far..............

    Cheers
    Keith

    #2
    I'd suggest connecting the wires and bypassing the rheostat to give you dash lights that are bright enough to read - that's what I've done.

    Cheers

    Julian

    Comment


      #3
      Yes Julian, perhaps the best option, I have a 4 way connector splice on atm.

      Cheers
      Keith

      Comment


        #4
        Yep, I reckon the standard rheostat is pretty much a waste of time - only adjusting lights from dim to off

        Cheers

        Julian

        Comment


          #5
          Do I take it then that bypassing the rheostat makes them brighter? I have worked out that first click to right is as bright as it will go, then further turning dims to less than a glow-worm on a good day.
          Halfords wipers, Turtle wax and shampoo - RV8 and a beautiful Rover 75 ("relax it's a Rover")

          Comment


            #6
            Unfortunately it won't make them significantly brighter but it will mean that they are permanently at the 'brightest' setting. I suggested it because Keith's rheostat was playing up anyway.

            I took mine out because I was tidying up all of the dash wiring and I reckoned it didn't serve any useful purpose.

            Cheers

            Julian
            Last edited by jleyton; 20 November 2012, 18:16.

            Comment


              #7
              I have bypassed mine. But then I have a Mk1 which is even dimmer.

              Comment


                #8
                Hi
                Can I use a 4 way crimp joint to bypass the rheaostat? I have the dash apart and am trying to tidy up the wiring and put my new clock in, new chrome bezels and sort out dfarned rev counter (Alan - help! See PM). then I spied the rheostat looking dirty and begging to be removed or upgraded.
                Sorry, crimping and 'lektrics also a new artform i am learning
                Tanya
                Tanya: Brit in Canada
                71 Fed Stag, TV8, ZF 4spd auto, EWP and crossed fingers

                Comment


                  #9
                  Soaking it in Plus gas should eventually free it. But as said the lights can be made slightly brighter by bypassing it altogether.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Here you go Tanya, I used one of these....



                    Cheers
                    Keith

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thanks Keith! Interesting site and explains why I'm having a tough time trying to find electrical parts over here to fit! There aren't any and I'm having to improvise! The connector you indicate looks simple to use, I was going to use:

                      Non-Insulated 3-Way Terminals, Vinyl 3-Way Terminals, Nylon 3-Way Terminals, Heat Shrink 3-Way Terminals, Non-Insulated 4-Way Terminals, Vinyl 4-Way Terminals, Nylon 4-Way Terminals, Heat Shrink 4-Way Terminals


                      Cheers
                      Tanya
                      Tanya: Brit in Canada
                      71 Fed Stag, TV8, ZF 4spd auto, EWP and crossed fingers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 72BLUE View Post
                        My Lucas rheostat that supposedly dims the instrumentation lighting is seized solid.

                        Had a search on the forum but could not find anything, do they free off or is it futile to even try?

                        Tried a drop of Plus Gas but no joy so far..............

                        Cheers
                        Keith
                        Hello Keith,
                        these rheostats are simply a design, which is bound to fail. A TR friend here in Germany (a retired electronics engineer) builds new ones with modern parts, which can simply be built into the old place (€ 35.00 - no exchange). He also builds electronic voltage stabilizers into old housings (€ 16.00 - exchange).
                        Here are his contact details: Klaus Koppel
                        Tel.: 0049-2366-82352
                        Email: klauspkoppel@cityweb.de

                        Kind regards,
                        Dieter.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hi everyone, bypassing the rheostat will make things brighter, and is also a safe and simple modification, especially if you have a stuck switch. If you are trying to improve the lighting don't blame it all on a forty year old switch. Replacing my forty year old well blackened bulbs and cleaning all the contacts on the instruments made such an improvement that I left the rheostat in place.
                          Brian
                          Brian

                          Comment

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