88 deg thermostat

[Rubce]

Hi All

Who sells 88 deg thermostats without a foot suitable for a Mark 1 engine? Paddocks and EJ Wards don't list an 88deg and LD Parts only sell the type with a foot.

Regards

Bruce

[flying farmer]

I got one from Halfords, I worked my way along the shelf until I found one. Start by looking for the cheapest priced ones, but take your old one along as there are some which are slighty too small in diameter
Neil

[wilf]

Purely out of interest, why do you want an 88 degree 'stat?

[jleyton]

Purely out of interest, why do you want an 88 degree 'stat?

I've always thought that 88 degrees is best. Works just fine for me.

Cheers

Julian

[DJT]

Bruce,

QTH117k from Quinton Hazell. If you search for that number on here you will find a document I posted a while back listing the cars it fits. Mainly SAABs and the Maestro Turbo Diesel.

88 degree is best for our climate. Quicker warm up but doesn't make the car run hotter.

As my old teachers used to tell me 'RTFQ'. Ignore the above as it is for a Mk2 Stag

[wilf]

Sorry Julian and Dave, "best" for what exact reason? You won't get any quicker warm up from a higher temp rated 'stat, just an elevated running temp, and how can that be a good thing for an engine with acknowledged small reserves of cooling capacity and marginal head gaskets?

[DJT]

This is taken from the LDparts website:
This First Line branded FTK010 88 degree Thermostat Kit ensures 85C is the minumum temperature the engine will run.
Thus in winter the engine will operate at an efficient heat, the fuel consumption will be optimised and the heater will be warm.
A lower temperature Thermostat will not cause an engine to run cooler in summer.
We believe that in summer, the thermostats on Stags never close to regulate temperature as they do on other cars, and the temperature will go where it goes. Only those components that limit upper temperatures will keep the car within limits, and even they are not always sufficient in under tropical conditions (36C and above with direct sunshine).

I have to disagree with your assertion that the 88degree stat won't help with a quicker warm up. It does. It keeps the coolant in the engine longer before opening and bringing the radiator into the system. I find, even in winter, that the heater starts to warm up within a mile with the 88 degree stat, but takes much longer with the 82 degree stat.

Running temperature of the engine is unchanged at a few degrees below 1/2 on most days, increasing to a few above on the hottest days.

[Mike Stevens]

I'm just changing from an 82 to an 88. The temperature gauge hardly lifts off the stop and the heater isn't brilliant. I've checked the actual temperature with an infra-red 'gun' and it reads around 80 on the thermostat housing. I don't believe an increase to 88 will adversely affect the operation but hopefully will give a warmer heater!

Cheers,
Mike.

[wilf]

Mike, if that is how your 82 degrees stat worked, then it was faulty.

Dave- exactly how does the engine reach its operating temperature "faster" with a higher rated 'stat? It simply cannot and I am afraid there must be a misconception or misunderstanding here.

The rate of rise of temperature for a given output duty, PRIOR TO THE STAT OPENING is exactly the same, no matter what stat is fitted. The LD parts quote emphasises what I said - the Stag has marginal cooling capacity at the best of times. Raising its core operating temperature cannot help with that.

BTW, engine run more efficiently the cooler they are...........

[Mike Stevens]

Wilf, the 82 degree stat was new this Spring, but might of course be faulty. However, the measurements I took with the non-contact thermometer did agree with its opening point.

"engine run more efficiently the cooler they are..........." Can't say I agree with that. Yes, they run more efficiently the cooler the air intake is, but not at a cold engine temperature.

My Stag cooling has never been marginal. (I hope I don't get to regret saying that!). I don't believe that changing to an 88 will have any detrimental effect. It will (should) just make the engine run a bit warmer, but well below 100. I hope!

Cheers,
Mike.

[mike@thenook]

I've always thought that 88 degrees is best. Works just fine for me.

Cheers

Julian

And me - by far

[DJT]

Mike, if that is how your 82 degrees stat worked, then it was faulty.

Dave- exactly how does the engine reach its operating temperature "faster" with a higher rated 'stat? It simply cannot and I am afraid there must be a misconception or misunderstanding here.

The rate of rise of temperature for a given output duty, PRIOR TO THE STAT OPENING is exactly the same, no matter what stat is fitted. The LD parts quote emphasises what I said - the Stag has marginal cooling capacity at the best of times. Raising its core operating temperature cannot help with that.

BTW, engine run more efficiently the cooler they are...........

let's agree to disagree. I know what I am happy with. And I'm not alone.

[mike@thenook]

Sorry Julian and Dave, "best" for what exact reason? You won't get any quicker warm up from a higher temp rated 'stat, just an elevated running temp, and how can that be a good thing for an engine with acknowledged small reserves of cooling capacity and marginal head gaskets?

If there is no water running from the block to the rad the engine will run hotter for longer, in fact by the exact difference between any two thermostats opening temperature.
Engines actually run more efficiently when they are warm not cold - if the reverse were true why would there be a hot air pipe on the Stag (and many other cars) running up to the air inlet...?
Also oil circulates and does its best at protecting when hot, not cold

[milothedog]

If there is no water running from the block to the rad the engine will run hotter for longer, in fact by the exact difference between any two thermostats opening temperature.
Engines actually run more efficiently when they are warm not cold - if the reverse were true why would there be a hot air pipe on the Stag (and many other cars) running up to the air inlet...?
Also oil circulates and does its best at protecting when hot, not cold

That's what Mr City & Guilds told me back in the seventies unless he got it wrong

To be honest an ICE is S**T when it comes to efficiency, loosing an enormous amount of energy as heat but that's what we are stuck with until a decent flux capacitor is invented

Ian

[wilf]

Golly but there are some firmly held (and totally incorrect) theories held here. Obviously my thermodynamics Professor was teaching complete rubbish!

But, like the man says, we can agree to disagree and move on.........world would be a dull place if we all thought and liked exactly the same things.