Oil Change Method?

[72BLUE]

I have done a search, but all threads on 'oil change' are about VR1 it seems!

Anyway, I have some VR1 ready, but seeing as how this will be the first time I have ever changed oil on a Stag, I was after a few tips!

I have the original paper filter setup still, but may change to spin-on later. I have a new filter and seal.

Can I get away without jacking the car?
Will I need a new copper washer for the sump plug?
Should I not bother doing it at home and access a proper garage type lift?


Cheers Keith

[mike@thenook]

Hi Keith,

You will find it very difficult probably impossible to change the oil filter without jacking the car up, unless you have a very small person with strong fingers!
There is no copper washer on the sump plug, it is a gas tight fit in other words the tighter you screw the plug in the more it seals, the thread is tapered.
I have the spin on kit which makes life a lot easier in the long run.
I use VR1 now - cannot beat it for holding presure and keeping clean.

Cheers,

[72BLUE]

Thanks Mike, I have a 'contact' with a proper car lift, so I might just pay him a visit............

Cheers
Keith

[DJT]

Keith,

Sorry if this is a bit basic, but you did ask:

Warm the engine up first. I usually get the drive-on car ramps set up, then go for a short run. Drive the car straight up the ramps, chock the rear wheels and get under to drain the oil. Be careful though; hot 20W50 up the sleeve can hurt

When the sump almost stops dripping, replace the plug finger tight then go for the filter. Don't forget to dig out the old seal and fit a new with a smear of clean oil. Install the paper filter cartridge and fill the filter bowl slowly. Don't completely fill it as it fits at a slight angle, so you will spill new oil.

Replace the bowl then tighten the bolt. Stop the bowl from turning as you tighten or it can cut or displace the seal.

Remove the drain plug and drain any of the remaining old oil that has run into the sump whilst changing the filter. Then replace the plug and tighten. Pour in the new oil until it reaches the full level on the dipstick. Remove the King lead from the ditributor and, with the car in neutral, spin the engine until the oil light goes out (or pressure builds if you have a gauge).

Refit the King lead and start up. Check for oil leaks as it warms up. Recheck the oil level. Tidy up, wash your hands and go for a test drive - about 50 miles should do it..........

[Staggard]

Keith,

Sorry if this is a bit basic, but you did ask:

Warm the engine up first. I usually get the drive-on car ramps set up, then go for a short run. Drive the car straight up the ramps, chock the rear wheels and get under to drain the oil. Be careful though; hot 20W50 up the sleeve can hurt

When the sump almost stops dripping, replace the plug finger tight then go for the filter. Don't forget to dig out the old seal and fit a new with a smear of clean oil. Install the paper filter cartridge and fill the filter bowl slowly. Don't completely fill it as it fits at a slight angle, so you will spill new oil.

Replace the bowl then tighten the bolt. Stop the bowl from turning as you tighten or it can cut or displace the seal.

Remove the drain plug and drain any of the remaining old oil that has run into the sump whilst changing the filter. Then replace the plug and tighten. Pour in the new oil until it reaches the full level on the dipstick. Remove the King lead from the ditributor and, with the car in neutral, spin the engine until the oil light goes out (or pressure builds if you have a gauge).

Refit the King lead and start up. Check for oil leaks as it warms up. Recheck the oil level. Tidy up, wash your hands and go for a test drive - about 50 miles should do it..........

Small thing wash the filter bowel out

[AlanD]

and dont forget how all the gubbins inside the bowl fit too, there is a breakdown in the manual if you have one if not shout up and i'm sure we can supply one on disk, i can if you need it

alan

[72BLUE]

Thanks guys, great input as per usual

Another question: with Dave recommending to drive on ramps, I take it more oil comes out of the sump if the front of the car/engine is higher than the rear?

Cheers
Keith

[DJT]

Hi Keith,

I don't think it makes an appreciable difference. I mentioned ramps 'cos that's what I have, and I've used them for getting on for 40 years. You got quality products with Green Shield stamps back in the day

[Goldstar]

Thanks guys, great input as per usual

Another question: with Dave recommending to drive on ramps, I take it more oil comes out of the sump if the front of the car/engine is higher than the rear?

Cheers
Keith

I suspect it's as much to do with access as it is oil flow although IIRC the sumpl plug is at the back of the sump so it should help. The ROM says best done on level ground but you would need long arms without a pit or a ramp. If you have access to a ramp I would use it, I'm guessing the sump has a slope inside to encourage maximum emptying?

Paul

[72BLUE]

Thanks Dave and Paul, I might have to do it at home as my pal with the proper ramp works shifts and is a hard man to track down. I have a couple of sets of drive up ramps so will use a pair of them.

Keith

[mjheathcote]

I jack up the front to change the filter and drain most of the oil, but then to get the last bit out lower to ground and jack up the nearside slightly for the last bits to flow across to the drain plug.

[72BLUE]

I jack up the front to change the filter and drain most of the oil, but then to get the last bit out lower to ground and jack up the nearside slightly for the last bits to flow across to the drain plug.

Thanks for that, which leads me to something else that I have yet to do, jack the car up!

Is the best place for the front end, when using a trolley jack, the engine crossmember and the same for a pair of axle stands?


Cheers
Keith

[4x4]

Small thing wash the filter bowel out

Wash the filter bowel out?
Is that in case it is full of s**t???

[grumpy2]

What is VR1?

[Andy Rundell]

What is VR1?

A good 20/50 mineral oil made by Valvoline.