Hi
Having just converted a Stag (auto) to 2500 manual o/d, Im extremely pleased with the results and thought I'd put down some of the detail in case anyone else wants do this.
I was searching the internet for information trying to make sure I bought the right parts, something like this would have helped me so hopefully this will aid anyone doing the same thing.
You need ....
1 x Stag with (knackered engine)
1 x triumph 2500 engine (with saloon type front plate for engine mounts)
1 x 2500 manual o/d gearbox.
Note : The stag manual box and the 2500 engine have the same bellhousing drillings, but the input shaft on the Stag box is longer and thicker so it won't fit intot the 2500 clutch/flywheel. Also I gather tyhe Stag 1st gear is a higher ratio than 2500 box. If you changed the input shaft, it looked to me as though the stag box would fit, buit really you may just as well find a 2500 gearbox.
2500 front crossmember (with engine mounts), and 2500 anti roll bar clamp assembly. At first it might look like the ARB might not fit properly, but it does you just have to push it about a bit.
I gather you can use the Stag engine mounts in the bay and make up vitesse-style mountings for the engine, but that was a bit beyond my facilities. If you do this, you don't need the new front crossmember.
2500 PAS pulley. The pump itself is the same as the Stag one, but the pulley is different. The stag one would interfere with the radiator hoses.
You can keep the Stag radiator but you have to make sure it's as far forward as it will go. Mine's pretty close to the engine crankshaft bolt. There's only just enough room to get a fan belt past it ! However it's an aftermarket aluminium one, so might be a bit deeper than standard anyway.
Ideally, it would be better to hack the body about a bit and move the radiator forward a few inches, but I haven't done that.
You need some new radiator hoses: I had to make one up out of 2500 hose and the metal tube the stag uses (had to cut that up a bit)
Watch out for the rad filler nut at the passenger side end : it pokes up a bit and if you re-locate the radiator forwards, it could foul on the bonnet.
2500 manual gearbox crossmember : This will fit directly onto the Stag body, but you need elongated bolts for the mounting and the tubing spacers they sit in to keep it all tight.
The Stag Auto (maybe manual?) transmission tunnel fouls against the cluitch actuation arm on the side of the 2500 gearbox, so you have to move this somehow. I used a BIG HAMMER. It just needs pushing over an inch or so. I discovered this after the gearbox was already in, so I just levered the inside of the trans tunnel against the gearbox side and made a bit more room.
2500 exhaust: (Manual?) But you have to shorten it by about 5". Originally I cut it just after the first silencer box (about the middle of the propshaft) and put a straight tube connector to mate the pices up. It worked but there's a lot of tension in the system that way so I put a chicane in which shifts the centre section over by about 2 inches (made one up- 48mm inner diameter tube worked). That seemed a lot more 'comfortable'. The Stag rear mounting doens't align the ame so you have to come up with someting innovative.
Standard Stag propshaft : I used a rimmer bros one with CV joints. Brilliantly smooth, hopefully 'fit and forget'. This is important info as I had to the the plunge and buy one to see if it'll fit.
The Stag gearbox rear flange is larger than the 2500 one by a miniscule amount so to fit the stag propshaft you need a Stag flange. The rear one on the diff is the same though, of course.
The nut whcih holds the flange on appears to be 28mm or 1 1/8". A socketthat size is quite hard to find ! But you can order them online.
Undoing the nut on te flange can be f. difficult. I only realised the different size one the gearbox was on, so .. tricky.
I virtually hung on the socket and handle but it wouldn't budge. Eventually I did it by putting a socket on it, and a long extender on the handle so it lodges against the chassis. Then put the gearbox in REVERSE and try to start the engine. Ping! the nut gave way. Good nut. Nice nut. Lovely nylock nut. Have some copperslip.
The air filter on the 2500 would normally go where the battery is on the Stag, so in theory you should move the battery to the passenger side inner wing (as per the saloon). I didni't do this : I left the battery in its box on the driver's side, and fitted a tubular air filter bought from Halfords. I don't have te code on me but they do tubumar ones which fit straight onto the J part of the air filter box on the 2500. It was a bit tight so I made a curved tube up to hold it in a better place, just above the PAS pump.
This makes things a bit leant towards the driver's side : PAS pump, carbs, exhaust, battery, air filter all reside there. Seems ok though ! The only thing you could really move is the Battery which wouldn't make much of a difference really. You have to move the screen washer bottle to the pasenger side, but that becomes obvious pretty quickly.
I converted from Auto, so had to take care of clutch cables etc,
First I needed a manual pedal box with clutch pedal : That's not too hard to change. You could, in theory, just change the brake pedal (to big on auto) and add a clutch pedal but it's much easier to xchange the whole box.
I had an old Stag clutch master cylinder knocking about so I used that. If you do this, be sure to buy the 1" (larger) bore clutch slave cylinder for the 2500. I bought the 1 7/8" smaller one by mistake and the result was too much throw in the clutch, giving some very odd noises and the clutch getting stuck disengaged (until I bopped it back with a hammer). I'm aware it could have popped off the clutch actuation fork.
You need the 2500 clutch hydraulic cable too, of course.
Inexplicably, the thrust arm from the slave cylinder to the clutch was too short by about 2 cm, meaning when you put the clutch full down the slave cylinder spat all its innards and fluid out. I put a spacer in the bar (a small, long reach socket which I never use) and that seems to have dealt with it.
The Speedo cable screwed straight on to the gearbox I had bought, but the spindle which it inserts into was missing on the box so I used one out of a Stag manual box I had knocking about.
It's a bit tight but it fits. More on this in a moment. though.
The electrics are quite easy to sort, but the starter motor is on the opposite side on the 2500 manual box to the stag auto. The result is you end up with a lot of 'spare' power cable from the battery to the starter. I just looped it up the inner wing and wrapped it in cable protector. I'm glad I did this because the engineer's report fella pointed out it was wearing itselfr out. After only a few miles of test driving, it had worn its way through the paint on the inner wing ! as all this is right below the carbs, if it had worn such that the cable connected to the wing, a fire would seem very possible.
The auto box has an inhibitor which stops you starting it when it's not in "park". There's quite a substantial plug to service the auto box its electrics, and it's part of that. I shorted the starter inhibitor wires across by putting a thick copper wire into the relevant plug holes. I haven't yet dealt with the reverse lamp but It think this is catered for in that plug too.
The issues I now have are :
* Speedo reads low by quite a lot. 30mph on speedo = about 40 in reality. I think this may be because of the spindle thingy I used in the gearbox where the speedo cable attaches is the wrong type, and/or maybe the speedo is tired. I need to research that a bit.
* Haven't wired in reverse lamps yet. I forgot them. The switch is on top of the manual gearbox so it's a bit of a faff. One day ..
* The rev counter is still for the v8 but I now have a 6-pot so it reads two-thirds the right amount. A straight replacement with a 2500 rev counter will fix this.
* Engine sits a touch high in the bay, and the radiator pipe rubs a bit on the bonnet padding. It doesn't mis-shape the bonnet though so I'll let it just bed in.
* The smiling is starting to make my face ache :-D
Update :
After 3 months of driving about, I've discovered that I've accidentally bought an excellent engine. Nice and smooth, and burns no oil.
The current setup isn't fast on accelearation (down 30 bhp from standard v8 140bhp?) but it cruises easily at 70 or 80 and is quick enough to be fun. I was also astonished to find that on a run it did 31mpg, before I'd managed a detailed tune-up (timing, carbs). I'm tempted not to touch anything!
One star of the show is the exhaust : I've used a standard bore (late- 1 7/8") 2500 exhaust with 2 x mid boxes and tail box. It's virtually silent.
The smiling is really hurts now..
Having just converted a Stag (auto) to 2500 manual o/d, Im extremely pleased with the results and thought I'd put down some of the detail in case anyone else wants do this.
I was searching the internet for information trying to make sure I bought the right parts, something like this would have helped me so hopefully this will aid anyone doing the same thing.
You need ....
1 x Stag with (knackered engine)
1 x triumph 2500 engine (with saloon type front plate for engine mounts)
1 x 2500 manual o/d gearbox.
Note : The stag manual box and the 2500 engine have the same bellhousing drillings, but the input shaft on the Stag box is longer and thicker so it won't fit intot the 2500 clutch/flywheel. Also I gather tyhe Stag 1st gear is a higher ratio than 2500 box. If you changed the input shaft, it looked to me as though the stag box would fit, buit really you may just as well find a 2500 gearbox.
2500 front crossmember (with engine mounts), and 2500 anti roll bar clamp assembly. At first it might look like the ARB might not fit properly, but it does you just have to push it about a bit.
I gather you can use the Stag engine mounts in the bay and make up vitesse-style mountings for the engine, but that was a bit beyond my facilities. If you do this, you don't need the new front crossmember.
2500 PAS pulley. The pump itself is the same as the Stag one, but the pulley is different. The stag one would interfere with the radiator hoses.
You can keep the Stag radiator but you have to make sure it's as far forward as it will go. Mine's pretty close to the engine crankshaft bolt. There's only just enough room to get a fan belt past it ! However it's an aftermarket aluminium one, so might be a bit deeper than standard anyway.
Ideally, it would be better to hack the body about a bit and move the radiator forward a few inches, but I haven't done that.
You need some new radiator hoses: I had to make one up out of 2500 hose and the metal tube the stag uses (had to cut that up a bit)
Watch out for the rad filler nut at the passenger side end : it pokes up a bit and if you re-locate the radiator forwards, it could foul on the bonnet.
2500 manual gearbox crossmember : This will fit directly onto the Stag body, but you need elongated bolts for the mounting and the tubing spacers they sit in to keep it all tight.
The Stag Auto (maybe manual?) transmission tunnel fouls against the cluitch actuation arm on the side of the 2500 gearbox, so you have to move this somehow. I used a BIG HAMMER. It just needs pushing over an inch or so. I discovered this after the gearbox was already in, so I just levered the inside of the trans tunnel against the gearbox side and made a bit more room.
2500 exhaust: (Manual?) But you have to shorten it by about 5". Originally I cut it just after the first silencer box (about the middle of the propshaft) and put a straight tube connector to mate the pices up. It worked but there's a lot of tension in the system that way so I put a chicane in which shifts the centre section over by about 2 inches (made one up- 48mm inner diameter tube worked). That seemed a lot more 'comfortable'. The Stag rear mounting doens't align the ame so you have to come up with someting innovative.
Standard Stag propshaft : I used a rimmer bros one with CV joints. Brilliantly smooth, hopefully 'fit and forget'. This is important info as I had to the the plunge and buy one to see if it'll fit.
The Stag gearbox rear flange is larger than the 2500 one by a miniscule amount so to fit the stag propshaft you need a Stag flange. The rear one on the diff is the same though, of course.
The nut whcih holds the flange on appears to be 28mm or 1 1/8". A socketthat size is quite hard to find ! But you can order them online.
Undoing the nut on te flange can be f. difficult. I only realised the different size one the gearbox was on, so .. tricky.
I virtually hung on the socket and handle but it wouldn't budge. Eventually I did it by putting a socket on it, and a long extender on the handle so it lodges against the chassis. Then put the gearbox in REVERSE and try to start the engine. Ping! the nut gave way. Good nut. Nice nut. Lovely nylock nut. Have some copperslip.
The air filter on the 2500 would normally go where the battery is on the Stag, so in theory you should move the battery to the passenger side inner wing (as per the saloon). I didni't do this : I left the battery in its box on the driver's side, and fitted a tubular air filter bought from Halfords. I don't have te code on me but they do tubumar ones which fit straight onto the J part of the air filter box on the 2500. It was a bit tight so I made a curved tube up to hold it in a better place, just above the PAS pump.
This makes things a bit leant towards the driver's side : PAS pump, carbs, exhaust, battery, air filter all reside there. Seems ok though ! The only thing you could really move is the Battery which wouldn't make much of a difference really. You have to move the screen washer bottle to the pasenger side, but that becomes obvious pretty quickly.
I converted from Auto, so had to take care of clutch cables etc,
First I needed a manual pedal box with clutch pedal : That's not too hard to change. You could, in theory, just change the brake pedal (to big on auto) and add a clutch pedal but it's much easier to xchange the whole box.
I had an old Stag clutch master cylinder knocking about so I used that. If you do this, be sure to buy the 1" (larger) bore clutch slave cylinder for the 2500. I bought the 1 7/8" smaller one by mistake and the result was too much throw in the clutch, giving some very odd noises and the clutch getting stuck disengaged (until I bopped it back with a hammer). I'm aware it could have popped off the clutch actuation fork.
You need the 2500 clutch hydraulic cable too, of course.
Inexplicably, the thrust arm from the slave cylinder to the clutch was too short by about 2 cm, meaning when you put the clutch full down the slave cylinder spat all its innards and fluid out. I put a spacer in the bar (a small, long reach socket which I never use) and that seems to have dealt with it.
The Speedo cable screwed straight on to the gearbox I had bought, but the spindle which it inserts into was missing on the box so I used one out of a Stag manual box I had knocking about.
It's a bit tight but it fits. More on this in a moment. though.
The electrics are quite easy to sort, but the starter motor is on the opposite side on the 2500 manual box to the stag auto. The result is you end up with a lot of 'spare' power cable from the battery to the starter. I just looped it up the inner wing and wrapped it in cable protector. I'm glad I did this because the engineer's report fella pointed out it was wearing itselfr out. After only a few miles of test driving, it had worn its way through the paint on the inner wing ! as all this is right below the carbs, if it had worn such that the cable connected to the wing, a fire would seem very possible.
The auto box has an inhibitor which stops you starting it when it's not in "park". There's quite a substantial plug to service the auto box its electrics, and it's part of that. I shorted the starter inhibitor wires across by putting a thick copper wire into the relevant plug holes. I haven't yet dealt with the reverse lamp but It think this is catered for in that plug too.
The issues I now have are :
* Speedo reads low by quite a lot. 30mph on speedo = about 40 in reality. I think this may be because of the spindle thingy I used in the gearbox where the speedo cable attaches is the wrong type, and/or maybe the speedo is tired. I need to research that a bit.
* Haven't wired in reverse lamps yet. I forgot them. The switch is on top of the manual gearbox so it's a bit of a faff. One day ..
* The rev counter is still for the v8 but I now have a 6-pot so it reads two-thirds the right amount. A straight replacement with a 2500 rev counter will fix this.
* Engine sits a touch high in the bay, and the radiator pipe rubs a bit on the bonnet padding. It doesn't mis-shape the bonnet though so I'll let it just bed in.
* The smiling is starting to make my face ache :-D
Update :
After 3 months of driving about, I've discovered that I've accidentally bought an excellent engine. Nice and smooth, and burns no oil.
The current setup isn't fast on accelearation (down 30 bhp from standard v8 140bhp?) but it cruises easily at 70 or 80 and is quick enough to be fun. I was also astonished to find that on a run it did 31mpg, before I'd managed a detailed tune-up (timing, carbs). I'm tempted not to touch anything!
One star of the show is the exhaust : I've used a standard bore (late- 1 7/8") 2500 exhaust with 2 x mid boxes and tail box. It's virtually silent.
The smiling is really hurts now..
£235 fleabay item number 370706111480
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