Wiring loom problem

[SaskStag]

Hi,

One more question and then I'll be quiet for a while - promise. Back to work tomorrow and looking busy.

Still trying to figure out why my Stag doesn't have dipped lights, but has main only. Replaced worn out steering column switch. The fusebox wiring looked like it didn't follow the wiring diagram, but that's now sorted with V-mad's new fusebox.

The dash is now out so gives me a chance to look at the wiring again. Looks like the loom to the engine bay on the left has been cut through and resoldered together. I have only checked the redone connections, they seem good and solid, and rewrapped the insulation tape, but it does look a bit Heath Robinson.

Then it looks like there are wires that come from the master light switch straight to the engine bay loom and they must be bypassing the fusebox? It looks like one wire serves both left and right hand dipped beams. There are also loose ends, not taped up.

Incidently, the right rear marker light wiring was spliced into the right stop light even though the marker light wire is right there but taped up. The right stop bulb doesn't work some of the time, although the marker light worked. Anyway, I put all that back to original.

What bothers me, is I am no expert, following somebody who is expert enough to know shortcuts.

My plan is to rejoin all the cut wires back to original. Does my suspicion of bypassing fuses seem valid?
I wonder what mystery problem made them do that?

What i think is happening, new wires in black:
bypass fuses.jpg

Tapped in wires to loom going to steering column
All tapped wires to loom that was cut.jpg

Cut and rejoined loom with one wire connected to two. Left is engine bay, right is to loom behind dash
Joined cut loom.jpg

Thanks for all the help from the forum, it gives me the courage to keep going on my own
Tanya

[Westfaling]

Tanya
If the PO bypassed the fuses that's potentially dangerous ( fire risk) must have been a reason perhaps a problem with the loom to the front. Any signs of damage? perhaps the front loom has been replaced as it looks like all the wires have been spliced. Maybe they were trying to get dip and main beam on at the same time.
Those crimped connections are usually crap IMHO I always solder them.
Returning it all to original makes most sense to me.
Nick

[SaskStag]

Can't see any obvious problem to the front. The wires look dirty and the tape was worn away where they go behind the brake lines. I cleaned it up and covered the loom with that plastic corrugated stuff. I think I will have to pull out the lamps and check the wiring behind.
Will have to practise soldering more. I'm too liable to use crimps, although good quality ones.
T

[brian0443]

Tanya, the fact that you are replacing the fuse box probably points to the reason for all the 'shortcuts'. No circuit through the fuse- lets forget about it.
One wire servicing both dipped beams, same as I found on mine....because of a faulty fuse holder on one line. Electrically fine,(within the limits for fuse and wiring) but it meant both lights went out when the fuse went.

Crimping, if properly done, will give you a very strong connection, but do use shrink wrap to keep out the elements. A dab of solder always helps.
Brian

[Mike Stevens]

I agree with Brian. If you are going to remake some wires, do consider using heat shrink, maybe even the adhesive lined stuff. This will help to waterproof the joint. Personally, I would also solder them, making sure to create a good mechanical joint first, (make each end into a little 'hook' before hooking them together and soldering.

Remember you can't fit the heatshrink after joining the wires! (Unless you can get to another end somewhere!).

Fuses are a very good idea. The energy in a lead-acid battery is quite something!

Cheers,
Mike.

[Firept]

Tanya.
Crimp connectors are fine, if exposed to the weather then you can cover with heat shrink but looking at your photos if the blue crimps are the ones you have done then please buy a better crimp tool they work so much better.
I used to use them a lot and the tool I used was made by AMP and was about the £100, but these are pretty good (http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Co...ing-tool-63964 ).
As with most things in life you get what you pay for.
If you want your wiring to look really good then use Hellermann sleeves and you will need one of these (http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Co...ource=googleps) to help fit them.
The sleeves come in different sizes and colours but good for fitting over soldered joints.
It does look like you are having fun!! Vehicle electrics are definitely a Lucas dark art.

All the best
Paul,

[SaskStag]

Thanks chaps!!! Yes, having fun and learning lots!! I use heat shrinks, wish i could get them on the previously soldered ones instead of using tape.

The blue crimps are the POs. I physically can't use the basic crimp tools so bought myself a nice rachet tool that was recommended, very much like the one you posted. Thanks for the other link!
All tips very welcome
Tanya

[Goldstar]

Don't forget to refill the Lucas smoke

[SaskStag]

:d:d:d

[SaskStag]

Hi all,
Been trying to figure out the wiring again. The front left indicator had a red/black wire and a red/green wire and a dangling earth wire. In my diagram the red/black goes to the left front marker light, but it has a red/green wire only instead. Maybe that's so the marker light will indicate also (I can't remember what it used to do!). Hey, I wonder if the harnesses are mixed up!! (Light bulb moment - helps to write things down) Edit: No, the marker light only has 2 spades.... But yes , it could still be mixed 'cos the dangling earth is a ring terminal and must go on the bracket...must be that!!!

Looks like main beam is on all 4 lamps for Federal cars. I was trying to figure out if I have a front loom off another car, as the parts car for mine appears to be French Blue or Tahiti Blue (Bonnet and front). Did those colours come on USA cars? My car also came with an all amber indicator light that is divided like the UK ones. What country used these on Stags?
Cheers Tanya

[Westfaling]

Tanya
I had to go to my shop to check but you're right my. federal car has all four lights on with main beam.

As far as I'm aware there were only two side light options; all amber with a twin filament bulb for North America or Amber/ clear with two separate lamps for Blighty( and Europe, Australasia ??) . I'm not aware of an all amber option with two separate lamps. Pehaps the all amber lens fits over the twin lamp base never tried it myself.
Nick

[DJT]

Hi Tanya,

All Stags started out with 4 x H1 single filament headlamps. In dip mode the outers are on. In main beam mode the inners come on as well, giving you 4 lights.

[SaskStag]

Weird, another Stag peculiarity. Here's close-ups of the lens from my avatar:
divided amber indicator lens.jpg normal USA indicator lens.jpg

I have bought another USA lens so the divided one is now a spare
Tanya

[new to this]

Weird, another Stag peculiarity. Here's close-ups of the lens from my avatar:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19771[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]19772[/ATTACH]

I have bought another USA lens so the divided one is now a spare
Tanya

i think they look good the orange lens,i was going to fit them on my car but rimmers only had one side

dave

[SaskStag]

The amber lenses are getting rare and go for higher prices. There are some on ebay that look pretty good.

Instead of trying to figure out whether I had some exotic foreign Stag parts car in my Stag with a different loom; I concluded the wiring was in fact correct, and the wiring diagram in the ROM was wrong. Replaced all connectors, put dangling earth wires back to an earthing point with new connectors. Wired in the new horn.

And....do you think THIS is why the headlamps were blowing a fuse that "required" bypassing by the numbskull PO?

Power to earth.jpg

I will get a 'sparks' from the British car club here to come over next weekend and check everything before I connect to the battery - moral support required!

Thanks!
Tanya