Rear Wheel Cylinders - Any tips

[Goldstar]

for taking them off with the brake pads in situ-or more accurately putting them on. I have removed the os cylinder - one piston seized solid and brown fluid so that will have to be changed.

By the way does this look correct before I put the springs and shocks back on? Top of pic is front
Rear OS Brakes.jpg

Cheers

Paul

[Stagdad]

for taking them off with the brake pads in situ-or more accurately putting them on. I have removed the os cylinder - one piston seized solid and brown fluid so that will have to be changed.

By the way does this look correct before I put the springs and shocks back on? Top of pic is front
[ATTACH=CONFIG]20018[/ATTACH]

Cheers

Paul

No it looks far too clean Paul,sorry cant really help as that whole setup looks really foreign.Are you sure the wheel nuts souldn't be cone inwards.

[Goldstar]

Theyre the nuts that hold the splined hubs for the wires, Steve. I think they are bevelled both sides but theyre just on the studs so I don't do my normal trick of putting them down somehwere and losing them.If you fancy escaping from Mrs H for an hour or so, I'll be in the garage tomorrow afternoon...

Just wondering if there are any tips for saving me sweat and grazed knukles getting the cylinder back on before I just get on with it tomorow?

[Nambo]

Ive just put mine together, but I put the cylinders on first, before the shoes, dont know if that makes them easier to do?
I know putting the retaining clips on the back of the cylinders was a bugger, and that was doing it on the bench, (well kitchen worktop actually).

Looking at your picture makes me ask the list a question, in the bike world we allways file a chamfer or ramp on the leading edge of the brake shoes to stop them grabbing on, I see yours are not, maybe the Stag back brakes are so poor that grabbing brakes are a bonus!

[Guest]

The pic is 90° out, turn it clockwise 90°. I did my brakes about a month ago and I'm struggling to remember the details. The spring at the top (non cylinder end) should be on the inside - and it's a sod of a thing to fit. From memory (which is getting useless), I'm pretty sure that you will not be able to fit the cylider, auto adjusting mechanism and the handbrake actuator with the shoes in place. I found it difficult enough doing it with the shoes off and then re-fitting them. However, someone with a better memory might correct me. And Nambo is right, those retaining clips are difficult. I broke one of the new ones trying to fit it and had to put an old one back on.

[Goldstar]

Rear OS Brakes2.jpg

Thanks guys, I can tell its a tricky job so I'm trying to disturb the least number of components. MArtin has posted a couple of times about replacing the cylinder without taking the shoes off so hopefully he will read this and post any tips he has for the job.

Nambo, I notoced the lack of chamfer when I got the drum off, more noticeable as the NS shos are chamfered. They look pretty new so I thought I would just take a bit off with the Dremel.

[milothedog]

for taking them off with the brake pads in situ-or more accurately putting them on. I have removed the os cylinder - one piston seized solid and brown fluid so that will have to be changed.

By the way does this look correct before I put the springs and shocks back on? Top of pic is front
[ATTACH=CONFIG]20018[/ATTACH]

Cheers

Paul

Paul. the top spring should be behind the shoes, but more importantly it looks like you may have the leading and trailing shoes the wrong way round. hard to work out with that picture can you post another picture viewed from the side of the car .

Ian.

is it the O/S (drivers) if so they are fitted wrongly

[Goldstar]

Hi IAn, yes it is the OS and you're right I think, I thought the 'full' shoe was at the rear but having seen so many different pics I wasn't sure. I will get another pic shortly - thanks for your reply

[Goldstar]

Is this pic any better Ian? As you can see the diff mounting bushes are also a bit shot.....Rear OS Brakes3.jpg

[milothedog]

Is this pic any better Ian? As you can see the diff mounting bushes are also a bit shot.....[ATTACH=CONFIG]20023[/ATTACH]

Paul,

assuming that the brake shoe on the right in the picture is nearest the front of the car then you have them the wrong way round,

there are pictures in the ROM. The leading shoe (right hand in picture should have the longer gap exposed shoe iron at the top if that makes sense.

Ian.

[Goldstar]

Paul,

assuming that the brake shoe on the right in the picture is nearest the front of the car then you have them the wrong way round,

there are pictures in the ROM. The leading shoe (right hand in picture should have the longer gap exposed shoe iron at the top if that makes sense.

Ian.

Hi Ian, yes, sadly it makes sense. Another PO legacy to be put right. Thanks for the help.

Just taking a break from trying to drop the rear subframe to replace knackered bushes. Most of the nuts are stuck fast and soaking in Plus Gas. Just need to check availability of fixings before I get angry with the grinder.....Those diff hanger bolts look tricky to replace if I don't get the nuts off

[DJT]

...Those diff hanger bolts look tricky to replace if I don't get the nuts off

You are right there! They go in from above, so to do properly requires open heart surgery on the area above. Take your time to remove the nuts. A nut-splitter would be handy if you have one.

[Guest]

P1000946.jpg

This is my offside before I took them off.

As an aside, I have just taken the car out for the first time since changing the rear brakes and cylinders. The brakes seemed to work OK. I checked the drums when I got back - right hand side warmish, but burned my fingers on the near side drum. Something not right in there. Handbrake was useless as well. So it will have to come to bits again I think.

Lastly, the diff hanger bolts (I assume you mean the ones that come through the body) are welded in and I think that is the open heart surgery that DJT is referring to. Luckily, mine just needed cleaning up a bit.

[milothedog]

Over adjusted was the drum tight to refit.

Ian

[Guest]

No, from memory, it was just like the other one. I clicked up the rachets with the handbrake cable off using the footbrake. I did not think that it was possible to over adjust. I will be interesting to see if the drum will come off easily. Sorry for usurping Goldstar's post.