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Power steering hoses...am I being stupid?

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    Power steering hoses...am I being stupid?

    Nice easy job I thought, whip off those old perished hoses while the car is laid up. Got them off OK with lots of penetrating oil and waited for new ones to arrive. They're a very different shape, my old ones must be original with 35 years of bends and twists in them! So I get under the car, offer up the new hose and start turning the nut with my fingers. It just won't pick up the thread and I'm frightened of being too brutal in case I cross thread something. I've checked the old pipes and they are definitely not cross threaded so has anyone got any top tips? Should I run a tap round the hole? Anyone know what the thread sizes of the two pipes are?
    To coin a phrase....Grrrrrr!

    Simon

    #2
    I've had exactly the same problem a few times. I don't think you need to use a tap.

    You'd think that with the design of the end fittings then they'd go in quite easily but that's just not the case.

    I haven't really got many tips, other than perseverance

    If you try and push the nut as far forward as possible on the union and then get it started in the threads you can prove to yourself that it will fit but the bends mean that it probably won't fit at the other end. I've always had to reshape the metal sections, carefully, to a greater or lesser extent.

    Not too much help I'm afraid, other than to reassure you that a) it's do-able and b) you're not alone c) you're certainly not being stupid.

    Good luck.

    Cheers

    Julian

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Simon, you're right not to be brutal, be certain you've got the pipes and holes matched, they're different sizes. It's better if you've got a helper, the threads will start, but the rubber sections will try and prevent it, somebody bending them to your instruction should do it. Try and copy the shapes of the originals, good luck. Martin.

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        #4
        I did both very recently for the second time, they are fiddly but do as Martin says with a helper holding the rubber section in a suitable position. You definately have to fit the steering rack ends first. I found that the new ones do not seem to go in as far as the old ones and consequently always weeped fluid from the end of the nut. The second time I did it I wrapped a few turns of PTFE tape behind the shoulder of the flare on the pipe to give the nut something to bite down on. Does'nt leak anymore.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Stevekid1 View Post
          I did both very recently for the second time, they are fiddly but do as Martin says with a helper holding the rubber section in a suitable position. You definately have to fit the steering rack ends first. I found that the new ones do not seem to go in as far as the old ones and consequently always weeped fluid from the end of the nut. The second time I did it I wrapped a few turns of PTFE tape behind the shoulder of the flare on the pipe to give the nut something to bite down on. Does'nt leak anymore.

          Totally agree with the above comments, I had just refitted the engine last year, the high pressure pipe decided to split on the bend just as it goes into the rack. I got some new ones and eventually got them to fit I found some use of good old anglo saxon helped but they are a (insert your on word here) to fit and get into shape.
          I did not do the PTFE tape and consequentially it was picked up at the last MOT that there is a slight weep on the union where it goes into the rack so it looks like it will have to come out again not a job I am looking forward too.

          Best of luck and take your time.

          Paul.

          Comment


            #6
            I had the same problem and had to resort to bending the end of the metal fitting a little just to get it to start in the hole, but at least it didn't leak afterwards

            Neil
            Neil
            TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

            Comment


              #7
              A good tip that was given to me at the very beginning of my apprenticeship is to push the union nuts against the rack and turn them backwards, while pushing in, until you feel a 'click'- that is the start of the thread, and can mean all the difference between having an easy time getting the nut started and a crossthreaded union that is then ruined.....

              Just my threepennyworth

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by kryten View Post
                Just my threepennyworth
                Blimey there's inflation for you...
                Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

                Comment


                  #9
                  If you live near Kent you could probably hear me cursing from underneath the car. The workshop is a lonely place on your own!
                  I finally got the hoses on after a lot of perseverance so I'm glad I didn't try to force anything. Eventually after countless attempts the thread took up and I was able to tighten them up. Haven't put the fluid in yet so don't know if they will weep. For the record, I suspended each hose in turn on a rope wrapped around the brake master cylinder. I also discovered the hard way that you need to do the low pressure hose first (The bigger nut on the steering rack end!).
                  Next question is how to bleed the system. I read somewhere that I should simply jack the front of the car up and slowly turn the steering wheel from side to side with the engine running! Any further thoughts?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by lord65 View Post
                    If you live near Kent you could probably hear me cursing from underneath the car. The workshop is a lonely place on your own!
                    I finally got the hoses on after a lot of perseverance so I'm glad I didn't try to force anything. Eventually after countless attempts the thread took up and I was able to tighten them up. Haven't put the fluid in yet so don't know if they will weep. For the record, I suspended each hose in turn on a rope wrapped around the brake master cylinder. I also discovered the hard way that you need to do the low pressure hose first (The bigger nut on the steering rack end!).
                    Next question is how to bleed the system. I read somewhere that I should
                    simply jack the front of the car up and slowly turn the steering wheel from side to side with the engine running! Any further thoughts?

                    Nope, that's all you need to do, then check the level the next day once all the frothing has settled

                    Ian
                    Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I agree with everything above. I had to tweak the bends slightly to get the pipes to run in the right place. One other tip - protect the inner wing above the alternator with masking tape as the pipes flapping around can put a lot of marks on the panel.
                      Nick
                      Nick
                      72 Federal Stag. TV8, RHD & MOD Conversions.

                      Comment

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