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    Rear brake bleed nipple snapped off



    Just need to vent my frustration. It looks like the PO never once changed the brake fluid, its filthy and the bleed nipples (original by the look of it) have rusted in nicely over the years. The front ones loosened easily enough but the rear ones were solid. An overnight soak in penetrating fluid has got the off-side one turning (and I will replace this original one with a steel one) but the near side one has snapped off
    So now it's a replacement cylinder. Why does a seemingly easy job often turn into a longer one...?!!
    I'm a mechanical novice, really; if I replace one rear cylinder, should I replace the other as well (I haven't stripped the good one out so have no idea what the seals are like etc but there is no apparent weep seen from the outside)?
    I'll be following the Haynes manual; any tips for the cylinder replacement to make my life easy?
    Thanks.
    Ross. Perth WA.
    1976 TV8 BW65 Tahiti Blue

    #2
    Originally posted by Stocky View Post


    Just need to vent my frustration. It looks like the PO never once changed the brake fluid, its filthy and the bleed nipples (original by the look of it) have rusted in nicely over the years. The front ones loosened easily enough but the rear ones were solid. An overnight soak in penetrating fluid has got the off-side one turning (and I will replace this original one with a steel one) but the near side one has snapped off
    So now it's a replacement cylinder. Why does a seemingly easy job often turn into a longer one...?!!
    I'm a mechanical novice, really; if I replace one rear cylinder, should I replace the other as well (I haven't stripped the good one out so have no idea what the seals are like etc but there is no apparent weep seen from the outside)?
    I'll be following the Haynes manual; any tips for the cylinder replacement to make my life easy?
    Thanks.

    Ross,

    If the other side is not seized or leaking then you don't need to, but for what it cost why not put new on along with some shoes if needed then it's done and sorted long term.

    Not a difficult job can be a bit fiddly though.

    Ian
    Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Stocky View Post
      Why does a seemingly easy job often turn into a longer one...?!!
      That's the story of our lives as Stag owners although, to be fair, it's probably the case with most classic car owners.

      Cheers

      Julian

      Comment


        #4
        Hi Stocky

        If you're suspicions are right and the brake fluid has never been changed, chances are the other wheel cylinder is at best inefficient. It's a bit of a PITA job but worth the peace of mind. Also if your brakes are anything like mine the shoes and springs have all been put on wrongly anyhow..!

        Good luck

        Paul
        Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

        Comment


          #5
          Hiya Ross, if the shoes are OK, there's no need to remove them, with a bit of fiddling the cylinders come off quite easily, worth fitting new handbrake boots while you're at it. Martin.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks chaps.
            The rear brakes have clearly not been touched for a very long time, considering the accumulated muck and rust, so I thought I might as well do it all properly and replace both cylinders and inspect the shoes. I'll replace the hoses too while I'm at it, who knows how old they are.
            The front hoses come off easily; the rears are real pigs! I've already managed to twist and snap one of the copper pipes that runs outboard from the hose and I'm worried about the near side inboard pipe/hose connection, I can see the bracket twisting. Will be a bit patient and let the WD40 get to work on the others. Oh, and a brake pipe clip snapped off on the trailing arm.
            So, from needing to change the brake fluid and renew the O-rings on the leaking PDWA to a complete rear brake refurbishment in one morning. Hey ho.
            Ross. Perth WA.
            1976 TV8 BW65 Tahiti Blue

            Comment


              #7
              It's an old car, that's one of the pleasures of owning it. Martin.

              Comment


                #8
                I share your pain. PLusGas is better than WD IMHO. Euro Car Parts stock it. I soaked my NS wheel cylinder in it the other night. Back into the garage tonight to get the bugger off.
                Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Stocky View Post
                  The front hoses come off easily; the rears are real pigs! I've already managed to twist and snap one of the copper pipes that runs outboard from the hose and I'm worried about the near side inboard pipe/hose connection,
                  Just out of interest, do you have copper brake pipes? I put copper pipes on mine, and I always understood you could only use silicon brake fluid with copper. Is that correct?

                  Robert

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Radenac View Post
                    Just out of interest, do you have copper brake pipes? I put copper pipes on mine, and I always understood you could only use silicon brake fluid with copper. Is that correct?

                    Robert


                    In short, no, any Dot 4 is fine. The trouble with copper brake pipes is that they work harden, Kunifer don't, much better. Martin.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Hi Ross,
                      consider replacing your brake hoses as well, if the brakes have not been touched in years then chances are the hoses are still the same. I fitted the stainless braided on mine but depends on your budget. Also you sould be looking to completely flush out the system since there is most likely rust and water in it which will knacker your new rear wheel cylinders very quickly and you will end up doing a second brake job more money more money more money. I stripped my whole system front and back and did a clean out with the lines open I used a cleaner solvent to flush through system and blew out with air. Its a longer job than you think but a fully functional braking system is what keeps you alive so I never cost cut in that respect.

                      cheers Stuart

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Radenac View Post
                        Just out of interest, do you have copper brake pipes? I put copper pipes on mine, and I always understood you could only use silicon brake fluid with copper. Is that correct?

                        Robert
                        I assumed mine were copper but when I cleaned it up is it a white/grey metal, soft like copper, is this Kunifer? I have ordered replacement pre-made pipes in copper, just for expediency, I could change back in future I suppose.
                        Still can't remove the N/S/R hose. I'll leave it soaking in PlusGas overnight. The O/S/R had virtually "welded" solid to the bracket on the trailing arm; steel/alli reaction I suppose. Drums off tomorrow...
                        Ross. Perth WA.
                        1976 TV8 BW65 Tahiti Blue

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by elvimto View Post
                          Hi Ross,
                          consider replacing your brake hoses as well, if the brakes have not been touched in years then chances are the hoses are still the same. I fitted the stainless braided on mine but depends on your budget. Also you sould be looking to completely flush out the system since there is most likely rust and water in it which will knacker your new rear wheel cylinders very quickly and you will end up doing a second brake job more money more money more money. I stripped my whole system front and back and did a clean out with the lines open I used a cleaner solvent to flush through system and blew out with air. Its a longer job than you think but a fully functional braking system is what keeps you alive so I never cost cut in that respect.

                          cheers Stuart
                          Thanks Stuart. Yes, I had already decided to replace the hoses and I have ordered braided. Good point about the flush, any particular recommendation for what to use? Meths?
                          Ross. Perth WA.
                          1976 TV8 BW65 Tahiti Blue

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Hi Ross, it certainly sounds like Kunifer, that stuff lasts forever, unless something's broken, there's no need to change them. Martin.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Only the two short pieces from the hose to the cylinder on each side. Unfortunately these twisted as I was trying to release the hose union, one actually fractured and I think the metal has weakened on the other so I am replacing for safety.
                              Ross. Perth WA.
                              1976 TV8 BW65 Tahiti Blue

                              Comment

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