Removing EVAP system from EX-USA Stag

[Ian928]

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Yesterday I just pulled the Charcoal Canister out of the engine bay. I want to remove as much as possible of this system as I can, but need some advise to do it right:

1. I removed the Canister and routed the vent from the engine straight to the manifold. I guess this is ok?
2. Attached to the Canister sits what, according to the repair manual, is the Running-on valve. When I disconnected the two electrical connections to it, there was some sparks, even though the ignition was off. I guess this is not correct (and I have probably found out why my battery drains...). What triggers the Running-on valve (oil pressure I believe)? Do I have a sticking relay maybe?
3. The running-on valve was connected to the rest of the vacuum system via a T-piece. If I have understood the function of this valve correct, it should stop the car by routing vacuum from the carbon canister to the float chamber and therefore stopping fuel from entering the intake? I have a Ford carburettor on mye car and, and the vacuum line just plumbed into the rest of the system so I guess it is OK to just plug it?
4. There is a Expansion tank in rear next to the fuel pump, the top fitting of this tank is in fact broken, so the tank is now wenting inside the boot. Do I need the expansion chamber, and should I just route the vapours to the engine bay? Maybe put a filter on it there?

Thank you for any help!

[Ian928]

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Another "special" on our EX-USA Stag is this vacuum valve(?) that sits on the radiator. Can anybody enlighten me in what it does, and should I keep it connected? One of the vacuum lines go to the intake, on goes to the vacuum system and one goes to the distributor.

I guess it manipulates the timing according to the water temperature, but in my experience "US-stuff" is for legislation only and is not good for power....

[Marco Polo]

Ian,
i have recently removed the emissions parts from my sons car, and did the same to my car a few years ago. I converted the cars to Uk spec using the parts catalogue and ROM. You need to remove two of the three connections at the oil pressure switch to remove the live feed to the anti running on valve, I just taped mine into the loom.
i removed the pipe from the underneath of the car that runs to the carbon canister. I converted the fuel tank to Uk spec too, I wouldn't connect the vapour line to the inlet manifold, you could get fuel vapour mixing in a hot inlet manifold after you have switched off the engine, with disasterous results. I left the vacuum valve on the rad but removed all the lines and converted everything again to UK spec.
hope this helps,
regards,
Raoul

[Ian928]

Thank you Raoul, very helpful!

I didn't consider plumbing the vapour line to the manifold, just putting a filter on the end and leaving it in the engine bay. Did you change the fuel tank itself or is it possible to convert to UK spec without changing tha tank?

Do you know if the distributors on our cars are the same as the UK-spec cars? If the advance curve is special I am thinking maybe it is better to leave the vacuum valve in place?

[stag8manod]

Hi, I found after many problems trying to tune my first Spitfire which was an ex USA Californian L/H converted to R/H that the ignition vacumn control was retarding the timing and not advancing it. A new British spec advancing distribitor cured it. It did cause some head scratching until the penny dropped or should I say cent.
Cheers Ian A

[SaskStag]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]20521[/ATTACH]

Another "special" on our EX-USA Stag is this vacuum valve(?) that sits on the radiator. Can anybody enlighten me in what it does, and should I keep it connected? One of the vacuum lines go to the intake, on goes to the vacuum system and one goes to the distributor.

I guess it manipulates the timing according to the water temperature, but in my experience "US-stuff" is for legislation only and is not good for power....

The connections on my car are all gone. I did wonder what that bit on the rad was for . I removed the charcoal canister, it wasn't an original one anyway, and nothing was connected to it except the for the vent pipe which is now left open in the engine bay. I plan on removing all the pipes from the tank and sealing them off (finally found some end caps that might work), and take out the expansion tank. Waiting until I can do all this with the garage door open!
Cheers
Tanya

[Marco Polo]

Thank you Raoul, very helpful!

I didn't consider plumbing the vapour line to the manifold, just putting a filter on the end and leaving it in the engine bay. Did you change the fuel tank itself or is it possible to convert to UK spec without changing tha tank?

Do you know if the distributors on our cars are the same as the UK-spec cars? If the advance curve is special I am thinking maybe it is better to leave the vacuum valve in place?

The Aussie cars didnt have the same distributors as the federal cars, I would change yours to a uk type with advance.
cheers,
Raoul

[Westfaling]

My Mk1 Federal car didn't have an anti run on valve. My 78 MGB did. It was a solenoid valve that opened for a few seconds on turning off the engine it allowed air into the inlet manifold to stop running on.
I've kept the expansion tank in the boot but it no longer runs to a carbon canister.
A distributor specialist can re-curve your dizzie to UK specs. That's what I did.
Switching to a Weber carb avoided all the issues of what do do with the US Spec Strombergs which according to most people have to go. I could have bought UK spec Strombergs but the Weber was cheaper.
Nick

regards
Nick

[SaskStag]

I didn't know the Strommies were different. Anyway, also getting a Weber carb set...birthday pressie
Tanya

[DJT]

I didn't know the Strommies were different. Anyway, also getting a Weber carb set...birthday pressie
Tanya

It's my wife's birthday today. If I'd given her a Weber carb kit for her birthday I don't think it would have been received well.........

[KOY 23]

At least the Weber is tiny compared with a pair of strommies, so a tad less painful.

[SaskStag]

It's my wife's birthday today. If I'd given her a Weber carb kit for her birthday I don't think it would have been received well.........

[Ian928]

The Aussie cars didnt have the same distributors as the federal cars, I would change yours to a uk type with advance.
cheers,
Raoul

Ok, hopefully that will liberate a few extra hp also! I saw a thread here about 123 distributor with a tuneable advance curve, but it seemed like he could not get it to run properly. Seems like a good idea to get rid of the vacuum and mechanical advance!

[Ian928]

I went out and had a look at my distributor now, and the vacuum connction is on the inside of the vacuum clock, compared to on the outside of the clock on UK cars. I would like to disconnect it and see how the car runs, but I have yet to find a advance curve for the Stag. On my Porsche 928 you set the timing at 3000rpm, then increase rpms to 6000 and check maximum then back to idle to check there.

[SaskStag]

I am in the process of removing the expansion tank. I've sealed off the little pipes giving off hoses to the expansion tank, except for one which I've fitted a new hose with a generic in-line fuel filter to the vent. The overflow is kept as original.

Does this look ok? Have I missed anything?

Adapted fuel tank.jpg

Cheers
Tanya