Nearly got the heads off

[mike@thenook]

I've been wondering just how I will get the heads off having sheared a bolt with a stud extractor a coupe of weeks back, I have assumed it would be a monumental task!
Andrew had promised to bring his HRS stud tool for me to borrow so met at area night last night at the Windmill and Andrew handed me "the tool".
I got home about 5.30 today & thought I'd go and see if I could get just one stud out, I had serious doubts knowing the normal problems but to my amazement hour and a half later I had all out bar one!
What I didn't remember was that when I rebuilt the engine 19 years ago I'd fitted nickel plated studs, clearly this has made the job a lot easier but without that tool it would have been a very long job indeed. Some of the studs are still quite shiny but I reckon I may also have used some copperslip too as there is something very similar on the studs.
So, one left to get out and frankly if it is too difficult as it is the rear stud on the drivers side of the block I will be able to just twist the whole head to free it.
Also had a call to say Gosnay's have my crank all done (10 under on mains and polished big's) and a set of specially ordered Cords standard piston rings (gold dust!) so things is looking good for getting my new block built quite quickly.
Once the heads are off they will go to Gos' too
Thanks so much to Andrew for loaning 'his' really useful tool and I guess to Tony Hart for making them in the first place.
Should have the new block built soon and just then need the heads to complete.
Nice to know too that Rod will soon have his car fixed too after 'the bike meeting' - I'll look forward to the yellow burble at the weekends n Horseman Side again before not too long!
Cheers

[GDPR]

Bloody lucky to find those rings Mike - they would deffo be my rings of choice.

[paulbell6]

Mike, be careful in twisting off the head as the stud does not run perpendicular to the head face so when it is rotated the faces may jam up resulting in damaged to the very valuable head face.

Paul

[Stagdad]

So the Crank was a goodun then Mike

Cheers Steve

[Firept]

Mike.
Before you twist the head off the stud remember to release the cam shaft so that all the valves are closed.
I had the same problem but the stud broke off level with the head don't panic as with a Dremmel you can cut a slot and they will some times just come out with a driver if you are lucky, but do not use the tapered style "easy out" they are crap and I have never had success with them far better to get a thick block of metal drill a pilot hole using a drill press and then attach this to the block using one of the other stud holes so that you have an accurate guide for the drill then you can just keep increasing the size of the drill /pilot hole and the either tap a decent thread and lock a stud / screw in to the old part of the stud and wind it out that way.
At least it sounds like you are getting there.
all the best
Paul.

[milothedog]

As I tried to suggest before Mike, you need this type of extractor, not only do you get the drilling guides but when it comes to the removing part you are able to turn it in both directions allowing you to slowly work it free unlike a L/H thread extractor.

http://www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/820932/25pcs-bolt-extractor-set-TOOLCRAFT-820932-Thread-type-5-14-mm

Ian.

[mike@thenook]

Bloody lucky to find those rings Mike - they would deffo be my rings of choice.

Couldn't believe it when I asked, he said maybe and 2 hours later said i've got you a set £135 plus vat which in my mind is well worth it too

[mike@thenook]

So the Crank was a goodun then Mike

Cheers Steve

Yes Steve - got it back today and looks like new (as it would) with just 10 under on the mains - really pleased and thanks again

[mike@thenook]

As I tried to suggest before Mike, you need this type of extractor, not only do you get the drilling guides but when it comes to the removing part you are able to turn it in both directions allowing you to slowly work it free unlike a L/H thread extractor.

http://www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/820932/25pcs-bolt-extractor-set-TOOLCRAFT-820932-Thread-type-5-14-mm

That's a handsome piece of kit and I certainly wouldnt forget the name being as though it is my Son's name!



Ian.

I'm going to try a bit of heat on the last stud tomorrow - it is the only stubborn one but like I say, rear-est stud to the bulkhead on drivers side, I'll do as Paul suggests and release the cam before twisting if the heat doesn't free it - such a s*d given all the others are out but that's life - could have been one out and the rest seized!

Cheers,

[404ROD]

Mike,
I went past your place today. Didn't hear any cursing or swearing so that must have meant things were going well.

Rod

[mike@thenook]

Mike,
I went past your place today. Didn't hear any cursing or swearing so that must have meant things were going well.

Rod

Funny you should mention it but I did do a bit of cursing and swearing yesterday!
I applied some heat to the offending stud and had another go - I've now sheared the top of of it with the aid of Andrews HRS tool (a truly brilliant piece of kit) so I am now resigned to twisting the head up and across so I can get anough rook between block and head to saw through it - its the left corner stud thank God so could have been a lot more difficult!
Andrew to the aid again as he is lending me his Sabre Air saw which sounds like easier work than the normal metal saw - I'll be glad to have both heads off anyway though and ready for whatever needs doing.
As I said to Andrew, it's weird how just that one stud has been a real problem - completely seized in and I can only imagine this is maybe due to that end of the head on RH bank being hotter than elswhere, or maybe there is another problem that will appear once I have removed it.....
We'll see.....

[kh7733]

Hi Mike,

I had a similar problem with mine, both side. the way I got around it was to use some cable ties and a ratchet strap to hang the cam cog from the garage rafters.
I then slid the heads straight off the studs, the chain and cog just moved out of the way. once off I had it held while I put the cog back on the hanger.
Then heated the studs up with a torch and some cursing and a great deal of force managed to remove the studs.

Kevin

[mike@thenook]

That sounds an interesting concept - I have visions of an entire engine hanging on plastic straps by it's camshafts from a garage roof rafter.......

Is that right? How'd you get the unit up that high?

Think I must have missed something here......

[dasadrew]

Not sure whether I've missed the boat on this thread, but have you tried the rope trick? Put some of the removed studs back in and loosely fit the nuts. On my VERY limited experience it sounds to me like this could be a promising way of budging that single last stud.

[mike@thenook]

Not sure whether I've missed the boat on this thread, but have you tried the rope trick? Put some of the removed studs back in and loosely fit the nuts. On my VERY limited experience it sounds to me like this could be a promising way of budging that single last stud.

I must admit I haven't tried that one yet, no - could be an idea albeit I am now at the point I can twist the head and jack up in some way on that corner far enough to cut the last stud - Andrew has leant me a very nice looking air saw which I must admit looks just the job.
Once off I can hopefully press the offending stud piece out of the head on my 10 ton press..

Cheers!