Hi, Just spent the last few weekends stripping of all the under seal , and things are looking good underneath , no holes or flaking rust , just some light surface rust on the floors , rear & arches , Have rubbed down & degreased and am now ready to repaint - My plan is to coat with a couple of coats of the Rust buster epoxy 121 mastic over which I'll apply Dynax UB , however I feel with the surface rust I should be applying something prior to the epoxy. Have a can of rustoleum combicolour which is supposed to act as a primer /top coat over rust , am considering a coat of that to act as primer , Any thoughts on this combination ? ,or should I be considering using something other than the combicolour underneath . Your thoughts much appreciated - Cheers Steve
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Whats the best anti rust primer ?
Collapse
X
-
Hi Steve if you are using Rustbuster then use the rust converter fe123 on any rusted areas. Ensure it's degreased with a alcohol based cleaner you'll be suprised the residue that comes off a rusty area. Brush it on to the areas. Don't use it on shinny surfaces only on the rusty pitted ones. Then you can apply your primer straight on top after its cured.
This product was tested as number one by practicle classics test rust converters. You can also dilute it down with water and spray into any sections as a pre treatment to any wax cavity treatment. It's a job I will do as soon after i get floor painted.
I couldn't believe how good this stuff was.
Hope that helps.
Edd
Comment
-
Originally posted by stag888 View PostHi, Just spent the last few weekends stripping of all the under seal , and things are looking good underneath , no holes or flaking rust , just some light surface rust on the floors , rear & arches , Have rubbed down & degreased and am now ready to repaint - My plan is to coat with a couple of coats of the Rust buster epoxy 121 mastic over which I'll apply Dynax UB , however I feel with the surface rust I should be applying something prior to the epoxy. Have a can of rustoleum combicolour which is supposed to act as a primer /top coat over rust , am considering a coat of that to act as primer , Any thoughts on this combination ? ,or should I be considering using something other than the combicolour underneath . Your thoughts much appreciated - Cheers Steve
Back in the 70's Triumph used White, I'll get me coat
IanWise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic
Comment
-
Julian.
Correct.
White allows the beauty of iron oxide to shine through where as all the other colours block it out .
They all rust the same as we all know, a mate of mine who worked at RR in Crewe said that they rusted just as much as any other car but the owners had the money to repair them!!
I will be interested in the responses to the first question, I was going to assume some form of epoxy primer such as used on boats / ships / oil rigs.
The surface primer that was interesting is the one they painted the American tank that was dragged out of the sea at Slapton Sands Devon it was given some sort of coating from a company based in Bristol I believe and that looked to be holding back the rust consider in the tank had been in the Sea water for 60 odd years.
Paul.
Comment
-
Originally posted by staginhiding View PostOk Ok I get all the banter,but seriously why do white cars rust more than any other colour,or used to in the 70's 80's..
I guess its to do with the paint composition..
I expect some knowlegable answers now..so that means Julian and Ian keep quiet..
IanWise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic
Comment
-
Edd, Have thought of using the Fe123 rust converter , however , the mixture of surface rust / original WHITE ( There's a surprise ) finish makes it difficult to define where the surface rust starts & where it finishes, bearing in mind the Fe123 is not a primer , I'm worried when I coat over shiny or original finish areas - which I can't really avoid I'll create a poor base for the epoxy that'll follow. I have read on a Landrover forum that when applied to anything other than rust the latex finish can peel off !!!!! Hence my thought along the lines of using something that would provide a solid base over both existing , clean steel & deal with the surface rust.Near Side 3.jpg You can see from this near side floor the challenge. The weather isn't helping , although in a garage , it's unheated and with the temperature about 8 deg or less most of the time , most products inc Fe123 have application / curing issues . I believe things may be warmer slightly next weekend , so I have time to keep researching.. perhaps that's half the problem , too many choices have lead me to indecision. Steve
Comment
-
Originally posted by stag888 View PostEdd, Have thought of using the Fe123 rust converter , however , the mixture of surface rust / original WHITE ( There's a surprise ) finish makes it difficult to define where the surface rust starts & where it finishes, bearing in mind the Fe123 is not a primer , I'm worried when I coat over shiny or original finish areas - which I can't really avoid I'll create a poor base for the epoxy that'll follow. I have read on a Landrover forum that when applied to anything other than rust the latex finish can peel off !!!!! Hence my thought along the lines of using something that would provide a solid base over both existing , clean steel & deal with the surface rust. You can see from this near side floor the challenge. The weather isn't helping , although in a garage , it's unheated and with the temperature about 8 deg or less most of the time , most products inc Fe123 have application / curing issues . I believe things may be warmer slightly next weekend , so I have time to keep researching.. perhaps that's half the problem , too many choices have lead me to indecision. Steve
I'll be very interested to hear what you decide and how you get on.
I know exactly the problem of telling exactly where rust starts and finishes and the problems of getting something to adhere properly.
I also totally agree about TOO MANY choices !! (It's even the same when my wife asks me to get a loaf of bread these days)
Just one thought - sorry, this is going to increase your choices and make the decision even harder - but have you considered Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80. They say "As hydrate 80 will activate on clean steel the affected area should be cleaned beyond the visibly corroded surface, this will ensure complete treatment." I've found it brilliant: http://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and...ngs/hydrate-80
Anyway, good luck and let us know how you get on.
Cheers
Julian
Comment
-
Personally i spent hours removing as much paint as i could , if those areas on yours have rust under the remaining areas are going to break out too. I used a mixture of flap wheels and my black and decker powerfile , this is really usefull , you go through belts fast but shop arround and i get them for about a 80p each. After my surfce cured i tested it by dragging a sharp nail over it abd it was very tough ,you can dab areas like it did in the front wheel arches .
I looked at the one Dave mentioned and its vitually the same being water based .
Here is a intersting thread from practicle classics
Edd
http://www.rust.co.uk/filestore/Prac...erter_Test.pdfLast edited by edd; 16 March 2013, 12:32.
Comment
Comment