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    New uprated driveshafts fitted

    I have been putting up with the assortment of bangs and clonks from the rear end of the Stag for the three years I have owned it. The splines were somewhat past there best but the thought of digging deeply into my pockets has been putting me off doing much about it.

    At Stoneleigh a couple of weeks ago, I happened across a pair of uprated shafts on the Revington TR stand, on offer for £240 the pair including 4 GKN universal joints and the inner flanges. Seemed too good to pass up so I battered the plastic and bought them.

    Fitted them this weekend, no more nasty clonking, and the last of the four new joints fitted by the previous owner was just starting to disintegrate.The first one was failing only 3000 miles after fitting, just after I bought the car and since then I have fitted two more. Four failed joints in 12000 miles, don't you just love cheap s##t parts!
    The new shafts have larger teflon coated splines so will hopefully last longer and help prevent spline lock when cornering.
    Photos show the old and new shafts side by side, the second one showing the first signs of the uj cup turning in the yoke, on wriggling it, movement would be alternatively tight then loose accompanied by cracking noises, hmmmm needle roller shrapnel!
    Last photo shows the different spline sizes.

    DSCF0015 (600 x 450).jpgDSCF0016 (600 x 450).jpgDSCF0017 (600 x 450).jpg
    Neil
    TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

    #2
    This is something I've been putting off. Were these new? Do they have a rubber sock over the splined area? Will be interested to hear how you get on. Mike

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Neil,

      Are these Rislan coated ?

      Mark
      1972 Mk 1 - Sapphire Blue; Original TV8; HID Lamps up front;

      Comment


        #4
        Hi Neil. That's sounds like a bargain. I need to not get too carried away so going to use what I have and there's the problem
        I have two sets. The originals felt great whilst driving the car with no clunks noises and they have grease nipples and circlips.
        The next choice is a original new old stock ( must be rare ) they have no grease nipples and have no circlips ie pressed in. They still have the original wax coating over the splines. It would be great to see your process on pressing your hubs off. After doing my diff input shafts it's something I'm thinking of avoiding and chancing my rear hub bearing ( how often do they wear out ?
        Edd

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by edd View Post
          Hi Neil. That's sounds like a bargain. I need to not get too carried away so going to use what I have and there's the problem
          I have two sets. The originals felt great whilst driving the car with no clunks noises and they have grease nipples and circlips.
          The next choice is a original new old stock ( must be rare ) they have no grease nipples and have no circlips ie pressed in. They still have the original wax coating over the splines. It would be great to see your process on pressing your hubs off. After doing my diff input shafts it's something I'm thinking of avoiding and chancing my rear hub bearing ( how often do they wear out ?
          Edd
          Hi Edd, there are pictures in my albums of how to do the rear bearings, I also have all the tooling needed except a press ( I use the works one). if you are stuck for the tools give me a shout, I'm sure something can be sorted out

          Ian
          Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic

          Comment


            #6
            The splines are coated, but I can't remember what with, the black ring seen on the new shafts is the seal which slides on the shaft, I had to prise it off to split the shaft so I could fit it through the trailing arm.

            The shafts are new.

            I think these may have been a one off pair made for the Stag/saloon range (they also had a pair of mk1 saloon shafts at the show). They don't really advertise anything for the Stag/saloon range, I think they had some made up when they did their uprated TR shafts but could never shift them hence being so cheap.

            The TR shafts are over £200 each

            In all the years of running Triumphs I have never had a rear hub fail. (cue a long list of failures)!
            My TR had one knackered hub when I bought it over 20 years ago, I got a pair of hubs and shafts off a mk1 saloon in the local scrappies ( now a housing estate). Unfortunately the shafts don't fit either the TR or the Stag. I still have the spare hub up the loft
            Neil
            Neil
            TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

            Comment


              #7
              I know someone who had one break

              ohh.jpg

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by MB View Post
                I know someone who had one break

                [ATTACH=CONFIG]20735[/ATTACH]
                Make that 2.....................
                Dave
                1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Can remember a wheel passing me while sat on the back seat of my dads 2.5PI in the 70's!
                  Mike.
                  74 Stag (Best Modified 2007), 02 Maserati 4200, 17 BMW M140i, 00 Mitsubishi Pinin

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by mjheathcote View Post
                    Can remember a wheel passing me while sat on the back seat of my dads 2.5PI in the 70's!
                    I was driving out of Portsmouth in my Mk1 2000 when I felt a strong vibration, pulled over to find the nyloc on the end of the driveshaft had almost come off. I guess this is why Triumph changed to using a castellated nut & cotter pin from the Mk2's.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by iani View Post
                      I was driving out of Portsmouth in my Mk1 2000 when I felt a strong vibration, pulled over to find the nyloc on the end of the driveshaft had almost come off. I guess this is why Triumph changed to using a castellated nut & cotter pin from the Mk2's.
                      I had the same problem - I was running 205/70 tyres and wondered why the left rear kept scrubbing on the bodywork;
                      I got the idea the tyres were too wide so went to change them for 195/70's only to find as they fit the last new tyre it was the hub that was loose and the centre nut allowing about 1/2" play, just enough to allow the rub - very expensive and pointless experience.
                      My previous Stag sheared a rear hub from the input side - Only doing 30 mph at the time fortunately!
                      Mike

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I've not had one come off, but I've had a few bearings get excessive play on saloons. Luckily my local Triumph agent (when we had that sort of thing) had all the kit to renew the bearings. Really nice chap, sadly no longer with us.

                        Cheers,
                        Mike.
                        Mine since 1987. Finished a 20+ year rebuild in 2012. One of many Triumphs and a 1949 LandRover!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          My NSR wheel overtook me once when I was driving my 1500TC many moons ago. I can still remember the bump and then having to fish the damn thing out of a hedge !

                          Mark
                          1972 Mk 1 - Sapphire Blue; Original TV8; HID Lamps up front;

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by StokeyStag View Post
                            My NSR wheel overtook me once when I was driving my 1500TC many moons ago. I can still remember the bump and then having to fish the damn thing out of a hedge !

                            Mark
                            I remember being out with a friend in his MG Midget, when we heard a "ting, ting, ting, ting, ting" noise - and we both wondered what it was.
                            Ten seconds later we found out - as one of the (front) wire wheels parted company with the car and overtook us.
                            Seems the ting, ting, ting noise was the wheel nut bouncing down the road.
                            He'd rebuilt the front suspension for the MOT, and put the handed hubs (for the wire wheels) on back to front.
                            So the nuts loosened, instead of tightened.
                            Whoops.................
                            4x4 Manual OD Stag

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by milothedog View Post
                              Hi Edd, there are pictures in my albums of how to do the rear bearings, I also have all the tooling needed except a press ( I use the works one). if you are stuck for the tools give me a shout, I'm sure something can be sorted out

                              Ian
                              Thanks Ian at present I,m going to leave the shafts as they are , like I said they all look recent with grease nipples and circlips and the car was very smooth and had passed its mot. I will also need projects in a few years time once it's done
                              I,m going to sell my original old stock on eBay as it looks to me this type of non circlip type is more from a mk1
                              Edd

                              Comment

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