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Hood Refurb Tips

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    Hood Refurb Tips

    If anyone is attempting a refurb/recon of their hood frame, I have some tips here that I hope they will find useful. The fist is a checklist to make sure all the main issues are covered. Following that is a short explanation of each item on the list. Sorry if some of the terms are not self explanatory; I will try to finish my sketch of the frame which might help ID the parts.

    HOOD RECON CHECKLIST

    1. Front X-member angle
    2. Front X-member welds
    3. Front X-member threaded inserts
    4. Front X-member corner hinges
    5. Rear bow curvature
    6. Rear bow torsional stiffness
    7. Rear bow captive nuts
    8. Main Bow straightness, longitudinal
    9. Main bow lateral
    10. B-post seal plates
    11. Side catch striker position
    12. Side rails in line
    13. Pivots
    14. Bolts/nuts tight
    15. Torsion springs


    1. Front x-member must be at correct rake angle to ensure good seal and alignment of pins with sockets.
    2. X-member welds (spot and other welds) must be good especially at ends.
    3. Threaded inserts for fixing chrome levers must be secure and have good clean threads
    4. Corner hinge joints to be free to move.
    5. Rear bow must match curvature of car body
    6. Failure of spot welds on rear bow causes loss of torsional rigidity.
    7. Captive nuts can come loose or fall out of the rear bow
    8. Main bow can bend forwards or backwards, causing poor b-post seal and side catch misalignment.
    9. Frame can move sideways off-centre casing poor seal alignment.
    10. B-post seal plates must be straight to ensure good seal alignment.
    11. Side catch strikers must move in correct arc to locate with catches. Apart from being affected by 8, distortion of the J-legs can also cause an alignment problem.
    12. The front and rear side rails must be in line with each other when frame is fully up/forwards. The frame must not arch up (or down) in the middle.
    13. All pivots must be lubricated and free to move without binding, and not as slack as to rattle. Shims can be changed to get correct adjustment.
    14. All pivot bolts and locknuts must be tight. Bolts should first be tight to shoulder before nuts are locked.
    15. Springs must have sufficient tension to balance weight of hood, and the tops part must remain secure in front of the frame tab.


    frame id of sections.jpghood frame PART ID.jpg
    Last edited by V Mad; 26 March 2013, 16:33.

    #2
    Good idea Chris! Should be put into the technical section for reference. You know, that section which no-one ever visits (unfortunately)
    The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

    Comment


      #3
      Will do Drew when I get it tidied up a bit.

      Comment


        #4
        Chris,

        People like you are invaluable and make me happy I own a Stag!

        We need to do something about our ill-fitting hood and will use this thread as a reference! Looking forward to the finished sketch!
        Kirsti & Ian in Norway
        1973 Stag Mk2 (ex-USA), Mallard Blue, TV8 engine, Manual O/D

        Comment


          #5
          Hi Chris,

          This is great. thank you for the info.

          I will be using it over the next week or so to remove any obvious problems with my hood. If it is still bent out of shape it is going to someone who can deal with it.

          Great stuff.

          Comment


            #6
            Chris,
            This info is fantastic and timely. Thank you thank you thanks you
            John

            Comment


              #7
              Chris.
              As per usual excellent information look forward to seeing the completed sketches.
              Thank you.
              Paul.

              Comment


                #8
                Chris, your help and advice is invaluable and has helped me refurbish my frame. Still waiting for the powder coating, Easter wasn't the right time to drop it off!

                Thanks again
                Brian

                Comment

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