headertank

[wilf]

But, but..............it works!

[milothedog]

But as John (Koy23) has already said, that pipe extends into the radiator about 1", so it is below the water level and can't let air purge out. Another outlet into the filler neck, or a T in the top hose is the best solution.

I don't disagree Dave but with the "Y" hose air will always have a way of finding it's way to the highest point in the system. Plus on initial filling air can be bleed out by removing the original filler plug and filling from the new tank.


Now go back to bed your supposed to be retired and before you say it I have an excuse, I have been roped in helping my son out on a big job refurbishing a shop basement in town


Ian

[DJT]

But, but..............it works!

Must be magic.....

[DJT]

Now go back to bed your supposed to be retired and before you say it I have an excuse, I have been roped in helping my son out on a big job refurbishing a shop basement in town


Ian

[wilf]

Must be magic.....

It is, I am lead to believe, the cooling fairies.

[Westfaling]

Well I finally got around to fitting the Volvo header tank Ibought for $7. Other than installing a fitting in the filler plug I kept the installation simple using the existing connection to the overflow bottle.
I haven't wired up the level switch but my relay panel has a (key in ignition) buzzer which is not in use so I think I'll use that. Hope it works.
Nick

Header 2.jpgHeader 1.jpg

[Dave M]

I have, I used the one from CBS, it's the same as Chris uses in his kit, easy enough to fit from outside, you just need to drill a hole for it.

Ian

Hi Ian
Which end of the tank did you put your switch into and how far up from the bottom of the tank?

Cheers
Dave

[iani]

Hi Ian
Which end of the tank did you put your switch into and how far up from the bottom of the tank?

Cheers
Dave

i put it in on the inner surface, facing the cam cover, about halfway down below the filler cap.

[Dave M]

i put it in on the inner surface, facing the cam cover, about halfway down below the filler cap.

Thanks Ian

[Dave M]

Here's a pic of my latest header tank, it should be big enough and high enough.

[stag157.7]

Hi Jeff,
i would move you fuel filter back to the turret, behind the wiper motor, it might cause fuel vapourisation that close to the exhaust in the hot weather, just a thought but looks very good, well done, like the tape too, might try it on some electrical wires to tidy them up a bit

Alan

second that, if it leaks you will have a fire on your hands

alan

[Sheepdip]

As many will know I have been a fan of header tanks for many years having first fitted the Volvo option about 7 years ago and written an article for the Stag Mag about it.

However, of late I have been getting worried about possible signs of HGF. This started before I took the car off the road for a body restoration and it has been niggling me all the time. I considered removing the engine and stripping it down but the additional cost over the body work would have been too painful. I was pinning my hopes on the new thermostat I fitted last December being faulty and that another new one would resolve the problem. It didn't!

This morning I looked at the header tank again and discovered that the small return spigot at the top of the tank was blocked. This is despite me flushing the tank out and scrubbing it clean whilst it was off during the body work. I missed checking this spigot at the time. Using a small drill bit in my fingers I have managed to clear the blockage (rust and K-seal!). Just returned from a 20-mile 70mph run and all is fine. No over pressurising of the system and water levels where they used to be before this problem started.

Relieved? You bet!

Stag paranoia affects even us old-timers.

Dave, I copied your idea soon after seeing your article and still think its the neatest and cheapest, especially as has a low level sensor by default - I wired mine to the oil pressure light and a buzzer so soon know if it needs topping up or oil. I plumbed mine directly into rad and Just curious, the level stabalises at about 1/4 full so doesn't need to lose much by seepage before the switch activates - how does this compare with yours? The plastic tank also helps keep an eye for any trouble - once saw bubbles in the tank, but that was pulled over at the top of a mountain pass in Switzerland with caravan in tow with the temp gauge off the end and Steves excellent external pump battling the heat! Still runs fine.

[DJT]

Dave, I copied your idea soon after seeing your article and still think its the neatest and cheapest, especially as has a low level sensor by default - I wired mine to the oil pressure light and a buzzer so soon know if it needs topping up or oil. I plumbed mine directly into rad and Just curious, the level stabalises at about 1/4 full so doesn't need to lose much by seepage before the switch activates - how does this compare with yours? The plastic tank also helps keep an eye for any trouble - once saw bubbles in the tank, but that was pulled over at the top of a mountain pass in Switzerland with caravan in tow with the temp gauge off the end and Steves excellent external pump battling the heat! Still runs fine.

Hi,

Mine seems to be happy with the level just below the header tank welded seam. When hot the level rises to just above the seam.

[Sheepdip]

Thanks Dave - I mounted mine as high as possible but clear the bonnet pad, but hadn't thought about water levels. Thinking again guess the way its setup the cold level corresponds with the highest point in the engine (probably top hose) so lowering it slightly will help. The level switch is a boon, never need to manually check - the buzzer is a bit frightening but rather hear that than watch for a light.

Paul