water pump

[GATS]

:dude:hi folks, i have a leak from under the water pump, with water coming from the casting, will a new pump sort this out, or is the engine duff, i tried new rubber seals with no luck. could it be wear on the pumps body, paul

[Sheepdip]

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DONT FIT A NEW PUMP. Theres no reason why an overhaul shouldn't work. Did you check the sealing face on the underside of the impeller - well worth having lightly skimmed as it will leak from hereif slightly corroded.

You just don't know what you're getting with a replacement pump.......

Paul

[GDPR]

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You need to get an overhaul kit old boy, then strip the pump and rebuild it.... kit is about £20 I think, quite easy to do, but well worth having the sealing face of the impeller reground by your local machine shop just too be sure it seals right.

Reason for rebuild rather than replace is your shaft and gearare better quality than the ones on the replacement pump........ and you re-use them!

Russ:dude:

[GATS]

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:dude:hi guys, thanks for the info, but how does replacing the bearing, sealsect, help with the leak, does the brass body do anything? and if that is worn replacing seals ect won,t do any good, how does grinding the impeller works?.i under stand the rubber rings seals the oil way from the water, how do the impeller stop the water leaking???.it do not rub on a surface. paul

[GDPR]

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The brass body serves as the bearing/seal carrier - the seal is part of the top bearing, and rubs/seals on the underside of the impeller - the seal being between the bearing and the impeller.... starting to see now? Because the impeller underside may well have been worn and grooved by the seal, it's a good idea to have it refaced so that you get a decent service life from the rebuilt pump.....

The holes in the brassbody are to let out any coolant that gets past the seal and gives the tell-tale leak that you had from the pump - there is also a seal on the lower bearing that stops oil leaking out from below.....the O rings you changed serve only to seal the pump body to the block, and for them to leak is rare -have a look at the pikkie from Rimmer's website.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/stag/ima...b/ld25atmb.gif

[Stagdad]

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kryten wrote:

You need to get an overhaul kit old boy, then strip the pump and rebuild it.... kit is about £20 I think, quite easy to do, but well worth having the sealing face of the impeller reground by your local machine shop just too be sure it seals right.

Reason for rebuild rather than replace is your shaft and gearare better quality than the ones on the replacement pump........ and you re-use them!

Russ:dude:

Russ

Did you get any luck with the marine external mechanical pump you were looking at?

I'd like to go this route now i 've decided to stick with the triumph engine and build up a spare one.

Cheers Steve

[GDPR]

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No - I chickened out and bought a Davies Craig GWP 110 - seems so much simpler. I will fit as a supplementary rather than replacing the original in-block pump, as that seems to overcome the heater flow issues.

I'll fit it when I can get the fan problem sorted, but will get my ZF fitted first....

Russ:dude:

[Stagdad]

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kryten wrote:

No - I chickened out and bought a Davies Craig GWP 110 - seems so much simpler. I will fit as a supplementary rather than replacing the original in-block pump, as that seems to overcome the heater flow issues.

I'll fit it when I can get the fan problem sorted, but will get my ZF fitted first....

Russ:dude:

Russ


I liked the idea of getting rid of the meshing problems that some people have had by removing the pump .

Steve

[GDPR]

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Me too - but there is an issue with internal block flow during warm-up that I can't resolve in my mind enough to trust an entirely external pump - I think there is a work-around using a second electric pump in the heater return pipe, but the Stag, because of where the original pump was mounted is difficult to imitate the standard water flow.

I'm betting on my decent 6 vane pump, which apparently loads the gears less will cope fine during warm-up and pottering about on cold days but is less efficient at high rotational speeds, and the Davies-Craig, switched thermostatically as a two speed pump in the bottom hose will take care of the higher flow needs of warmer days/higher engine speeds....

The issue is whether to keep the viscous, or go fully electric - and that's where I have the dichotomy....and the space issue:?

Russ:dude:

[RogerP]

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Hi Folks.

About ten years ago we had a water pump failure after fitting a new unipart pump, totally wrecked the engine in 1500mls. In the end we had five engine in three months all water pump related problems, anyhow the last engine has done around 50,000mls and the pump started leaking, on removal the gears were found to be shot, reckon just a few hundred miles before complete failure. So after our previous problems we decided to go electric, thrown out the mechanical pump and fitted Davis Craig GWP80 that was inMarch this year so far we have covered 3,000mls with no major problems the biggest problem so far is getting it to run hot enough even with engine fan removed, and yes we have fitted a small pump for the heater. If you can remember that one really hot weekend we had in May for the ESM it was perfect, no problems and on the up side when you turn the engine off the pump runs for two minutes so it gets rid of any hot spots. I will be writing a report for the magazine in the winter when we have covered a few more miles and ironed out a couple of small issues. But so far we are very pleased with the conversion and alsohave a lot more confidence. If anybody wants to talk just give me a ring.

Roger Phillips

[Bob Heritage]

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The heater return should be extended to the feed side of the pump, or else there will not be circulation through the heater. This will also remove the need for an additional electric pump to do the same job.

Bob

[RogerP]

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The heater return should be extended to the feed side of the pump, or else there will not be circulation through the heater. This will also remove the need for an additional electric pump to do the same job.

Bob




Agreedbut I didn't want to run extra pipe round.



Roger

[GDPR]

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Which pump controller are you using Roger? And have you binned the thermostat?

Russ:dude:

[RogerP]

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kryten wrote:

Which pump controller are you using Roger? And have you binned the thermostat?

Russ:dude:

Russ


The thermostat has been removed to allow thesensor for the control unit to fit, the thermo cover has been drilled and taped to fit sensor.

The control unit we have fitted is the digitally controlled version. This one starts to pulse when ignition is switched on, it's on for 10 seconds then off for 30 seconds untill it reaches 20 deg below your set temperature then it's on for 10sec and off for 10sec then when it reaches set temp it comes on continuously but alters the voltage to increase or decrease speed of pump depending on how much cooling it needs.

The controller has 5 preset temp settings starting at 75deg - 95deg in 5deg increments this can be adjusted as you drive depending where you site the controller, but beware there are still a lot off the old controllers in the pipe line which do nothing untill they reach 20deg below your set temp, and we got one of those, ended up having a long argument with the Australian company as they were advertising on thing and sending out another but they did send a replacement.

In hindsight we may have done better leaving the thermostat in but drilling a few small holes around the edge to allow some water flow and fitting the sensor elsewhere ie: in the inlet manifold close tothe thermostat, but having refitted the manifold didn't fancy removing it again to drill and tap, I think this would have got over the problem of running to cool.

Roger Phillips

[Seaking]

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I am still going down the mechanical route just awaitng one part to be made now i have used a tr5/6 water pump and have drilled and ground away.