Alternator/battery

[SaskStag]

Hi all,
I got the engine going the other day and it was running well. I noticed the voltmeter was showing about 2-4V. After a while, the engine just died. No spluttering. Fuel in filter, clean, old fuel but had stabiliser added/ pump working (or was), new Weber carb.
I'm thinking the alternator has died, but the battery was proving to be difficult and would drain very quickly on starting (used a battery blanket which helped).

questions:

I read a lot about signs of alternator failure showing as overcharging; is that the regulator part that fails when that happens?

Or! Does it matter which way the wires are attached on the voltmeter? The instrument panel is out so wires may be wrong way round.

Can I damage the alternator by using the battery charger to help start the car?

I will try measuring battery with a multimeter tonight. I've left the battery on charge for now.

Cheers, and thankyou for your wisdom
Tanya

[SaskStag]

Looks like the battery is dead, 10V at rest after being on charge all night. Down to 3-4V on cranking and deffo slow. Of course, engine wouldn't start so have to buy a new battery before the alternator can be tested I expect (?)......
At least the V8 lump was running for a few minutes!
Tanya

[Goldstar]

I've come to the same conclusion about my battery Tanya. If you go to the battery page on the LDParts website, there is some helpful information on dimensions etc. I don't suppose your local battery shop is used to providing Stag batteries (come to think of it, neither are those in the UK)

I've just found what looks like a decent deal for UK based owners if you are in the market for a new battery and conditioner - a Varta E24 battery (suggested by Neil 73Stagman, I think it was, in an earlier thread) and a CTEK3.6 charger/conditioner for just over £100 delivered - they retail at £60 and at least £45 separately plus delivery on the charger http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Varta-E24-...item3a7fc36c38

[milothedog]

Looks like the battery is dead, 10V at rest after being on charge all night. Down to 3-4V on cranking and deffo slow. Of course, engine wouldn't start so have to buy a new battery before the alternator can be tested I expect (?)......
At least the V8 lump was running for a few minutes!
Tanya

With that sort of Voltage Tanya it is scrap. Battery tech people explained to me in detail once at a meeting but I can't remember the exact reasons, but it was stated that a vehicle battery that drops below 10 volts will never fully recover to full capacity/performance

They also said a battery never dies, it is slowly murderd

Ian.

[SaskStag]

Our local "Halfords" type shop (Canadian Tire) has a similar sized battery. I was amazed they had the Triumph Stag in the databank, but the battery recommended is actually too long. They have a Honda Civic battery which will fit and same output as the Varta one. Not a great battery for a V8, but I'll be able to fit a battery blanket around it for cold mornings.
Cheers
Tanya

[SaskStag]

Bought the new battery and started the car with the new battery in parallel with the old one which is still in the car. Engine fired up and kept running smoothly.

I found 12.4 V across either battery (not surprising), and the voltmeter gauge showed roughly 12V. I have never had a working ignition light on the car.

My guess is that the alternator is not functioning and all was running off the new battery. There is also a mess of unconnected wires down there with an old regulator, one of them is probably the ignition light wire.

So I'm biting the bullet and buying a new alternator and I'll try to sort out the bird's nest of wire down there, some with bare ends...

Tanya

PS Thank goodness for the book on electrics that Desadrew recommended - a great book

[elvimto]

What was the name of the book Tanya? i was looking at the dry cell type batteries they are good for cars that get irregular use.

cheers Stuart

[Stag therapy]

Stuart

This one http://www.stag.org.uk/forum/showthr...highlight=book

Baz

[Mike Stevens]

Tanya,

if you have no ignition warning light, then this is probably why the alternator isn't working!

The small current through the ignition warning light is used to 'boot-up' the alternator. Without it, the alternator just doesn't work.

So, hopefully before getting a new alternator, get the ignition warning light working!

Cheers,
Mike.

[SaskStag]

I think the PO has bypasssed that light. The car was working just fine before the winter layup. I'm sure the engine would have died because of a flat battery on previous trips, but that never happened.

I bought one of those gel batteries; is that the same as dry-cell?

Thanks
Tanya