Oil Pump/Transfer Housing

[Guest]

I have been following the thread on oil pump/low pressure with interest for a while. Since I bought my car 2 years ago, there has been a slight leak up in there somewhere and it drips on to the exhaust pipe. Over time it is getting worse, but not yet serious. It looks as if the leak is above the pump and I suspect the oil transfer housing. My pressure is also slow to come up, but it starts to rise immediately on start up and it gets there (over 3 bars) after a couple of minutes and stays there, so I’m thinking that my pump is OK. I ordered all the O rings ages ago, but could not face doing the job after all the other things I have had to tackle. Anyway, today I took the plunge and crawled underneath and after a big struggle with the exhaust pipe, I now have the pump out. All the innards look OK to me (but I have never seen one before) and I will have a look at the ROM and see what I need to check.

Question: How would you know looking at the relief valve spring if it has weakened?

The transfer housing area is covered in oil and associated muck, so I assume that is where the leak is. However I have chickened out for the present as I’m not quite sure how to go about removing it. A 9/16 spanner fits the bolt, but with the switch and gauge fitting there is no real room to get a purchase on it and I don’t want to round it. I can get a socket on it, but not the socket wrench.

To get more access, should I first undo (from top I assume) the capillary union, disconnect the switch and then undo the fitting or maybe just undo the switch?

Any advice would be welcome. I’m done for the day. It's bar night at the local café.

Oops, one more question:
The advice on here is to prime the pump with Vaseline. I assume that means fill it all up inside with the stuff and then re-fit the pump.

[wilf]

I recall someone saying that a basin wrench is good to get the oil pressure switch off.

When I renewed my oil pump seals I chickened out on the transfer housing as the retaining bolt was extremely tight and I decided to let sleeping dogs lie.........the vast majority of my leaks were from the pump anyway, with more from the half moon seals on the cam covers (leaks from there run down much the same paces as from the transfer housing).


btw, I filled the pump with fresh oil when I refitted it, and it re-primed straight away.

[Guest]

Half moon seals? I'll have a look at the bible to see what they are and then get mt torch in there again. Like yours, my transfer housing bolt is very tight and if I would like to avoid disturbing it, but I will first have to be sure where the leak is coming from as I dont want to have to do the job twice.

Last night I also thought why not just fill the pump up with fresh oil. It was full of oil when I took it off and only a few dribbles fell on the floor, so I assume it will not even know that it has been off.

I'll get underneath once again this afternoon.

Forgot to ask - when the relief valve spring fell out, I never noticed which end (stretched or compacted) went where and asume it does not matter.

[wilf]

I mean the half moon shaped rubber "bungs" that fit at either end of the heads, just below the cam cover gaskets. They harden and leak. Changing mine (and the cam cover gaskets) cured a lot of oil leaks. When pre-filling the pump, you need to rotate it (gently) to and fro to ensure the oil fills all the cavities completely. I found almost none dripped out as I refitted the pump.

[Guest]

Wilf,

Not only did I say I did not know what the half moons were, well I now know that I had forgotten because iI have lots of them in my box of spares, so I must have ordered them at some time! My memory is not improving. Anyway, no sign of a leak there, so I decided to have another go at the transfer housing. Got the switch off no bother - it is different to the photo in the previous thread and I could get a spanner on it from underneath. Off came the capillary easily as well from the top. 5/16" is a bit sloppy on the transfer housing bolt, but 14mm is a perfect fit and with an extension piece I was able to get at it from the top. It took a right heave to crack it. There seems to be some grit in there, but maybe that fell in from above on removal.

One year ago I ordered all the bits for the job (2 of everything, being a pessimist and living far from suppliers), but I have just discovered that I forgot to order the transfer housing O ring. Drat! So, I think I will just order a new pump and make the postage worthwhile. Anyway, I'm happy enough that it is out and can wait for the bits.

[wilf]

The Rimmers diagram seems to indicate that the "stretched" end of the spring points "out" of the pump. Can't recall what mine did!

[Guest]

Yes, I think you are right.

I don't suppose it matters now, as I've just ordered a new pump from Paddocks. I have asked them about the pumps that have been delivered with the wrong spring in them and will see what they say. Even after I fit it, if the pressure is too high, I can put the old spring in without taking things to bits again.

I'm learning as I go along, I just wish that I did not have to learn so often and that I could spent more time in the car than under it!!

[jleyton]

Hi Don,

To pick up on a few of the points you've raised:

1) Whenever I've done significant engine work or had the pump off I like to reprime the system by driving the oil pump externally from above - it's far easier than it sounds. Simply remove the distributor and you'll see the oil pump drive shaft. Then, with socket (sorry, can't remember the size) on the end of an extension on a battery drill you can spin up the oil pump to your heart's content with no mechanical items turning without lubrication, but you're getting the oil all the way round the lubrication system.

2) I guess my next suggestion is too late now but I reckon this is unbeatable value for money: http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/shop.p...05fa3b59ef7e1b

3) If you think you may need to remove the spring from the PRV you may have seen the suggestion on here to weld a half washer to the cap to make removal esasier.

4) As much for doing a neat job as for anything else but now you've got the transfer cover off, you'll see the 'blind' outlet. I drilled and tapped this on mine and used one for the oil pressure switch and one for the OPG. It means you don't need to use that slightly clumsy extension and it makes things a little bit easier to work on in that area.

All the very best.

Julian

Ps Where in Lot and Garonne are you - I'm heading that way on holiday again this year, but as I'm bringing four people and luggage, sadly I won't be in the Stag though

[Guest]

Julian,

Thanks for the advice.

Google Map me at "Le Grin St Maurin" and up I will pop. I'm right in the extreme south east corner, 500 meteres from Tarn et Garonne. if I remember rightly, you will be well up the Dordogne (or have I mixed yu up with someone else?) and probably a couple of hours from moi. However, if you fancy a visit or a mid way meet up, then I'm game.

I did have a look last week at the LD part. It was £2 to post to UK address, but over £12 to get it to me, more than the cost of the part!