Alternator wiring question

[SaskStag]

Hi all,

I managed to install the new alternator with the Tony Hart bracket and it sits very well, looks great.

The new alternator is pictured here:

http://www.rareelectrical.com/p-13400-new-110a-high-amp-replacement-alternator-triumph-tr6-tr8-tr250-spitfire-stag.aspx

It has the plug at the back with a red wire that goes to the Battery connection on the alternator with the battery cable; two brown wires that go to excitation wire; and a spare grey wire for future accessories.

My car is a Mk 1 so should have relay and control box. Both are removed. Which leaves a spare white ignition wire and a brown/purple wire. I have a big cable for the battery output to the bulkhead insulated bolt which also has the starter motor cable and cable to the positive side of the battery (which is new).

I attached the white and brown/purple wire to the alt brown wires. Engine turned over but did not fire.
I then attached the white wire to the battery output and the engine started straight away. And it kept going even with ignition keys out. I had to use the battery isolator to stop the engine. If I connect the battery the fuel pump starts, and the start solenoid clicks. When the engine was running, the voltmeter still only shows 12.6V and there is still no ignition light on the warning light cluster.

Ok, I'm stumped.........any ideas?

Tanya

[stag8manod]

Hi Tanya, Will the wiring of your car cope with the increased output of the new alternator. I ask because I to would like to up grade mine to cover the accessories I have added and I am concerned to how much I can increase the capacity. Cheers Ian A

[4x4]

Hi Tanya.

I'm not sure I can directly work out how to fix the problem you now have (though someone here might).
However - what I can tell you is what I did when I had the same alternator problem.
I simply disconnected and isolated all the existing alternator wiring at the alternator (so leaving the regulator and control box in place), except for the warning light wire (which I connected to the new alternator needless to say).
I then ran one big new fat wire straight to the battery.

Hope this is of some help to you.


Adrian.

[SaskStag]

That's essentially what I've done, except I haven't tried not connecting the white wire. I'll try that today, and check the bulb in the warning cluster.

The white wire goes to the inertia cut-out, so disconnection might render it useless? But I think I can see why the engine bypass the ignition switch otherwise.

I upgraded the big fat brown wire to a 1G very fat cable for the higher amperage. Nothing was smoking IF the alternator was charging! (Except some power steering fluid on the manifold which caused me to panic!)

I might have to get the bigwigs at the local car club to help out with this one as it might be easier to see any problems.
Tanya

[SaskStag]

An update for future forumites. Many thanks to the forum archives and some local encouragement to solve this problem...

The white wire needs to be taped up out of the way, then the engine is back under control of the ignition key!
The brown and purple wire (Mk 1 car) is attached to the alternator, and..... (drum roll....) you can`t use an LED bulb in the warning light cluster for the ignition lamp!

Alternator is now happily in its new position, charging, no smoking wires and voltmeter showing charge as it should, result! It`s so easy to adjust the belt as well!

Thanks all!
Tanya

[4x4]

Excellent News Tanya.

Now all you need to do is go out at night to realise you can actually use the headlights to navigate by (as opposed to them just being a way of letting other people know you are there).
The brighter headlights are one of the best things about a more modern alternator for me!

Happy travels


Adrian.