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Been using Champion EON plugs for a few years.
To be honest, never noticed any difference between any of the plugs I have fitted over the years on the Stag.
Only time/car that was fussy was my old Lancia Y10 Turbo, apart from some fancy NGK plugs, it used to eat all others within a few thousand miles!
I only use Denso Irridium plugs, the only plugs Ive ever put in that I really notice an improvement in, makes my Triumph Trident run like a watch, cheapest place is http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/
Regarding the original question.
I had a Triumph 500 twin motorbike that I ran without a battery, just a couple of capacitors.
I originally fitted NGKs, by the time they had done 200 miles, the bike was near impossible to start, such a weak spark produced by the one or two revolutions of a Lucas alternator, as I was on a trip and my foot was getting sore having to kick it over 40 plus times every time I needed to start it, I bought a couple of new plugs at a garage, Champions, of course those brand new plugs made it start 1st of 2nd kick again, and for the next couple of years until I sold the bike, those Champions still produced a good spark and 1st or 2nd kick starting, whereas the NGKs only managed the 200 miles.
(They were the same heat range before anybody asks).
I use Bosch super plus WR8 DC+ as fitted and recommended by Faversham's. Apparently they run better at higher temperatures than NGK. Unfortunately, all my local motor factors only sell NGK so get them off eBay. Steve
I only use Denso Irridium plugs, the only plugs Ive ever put in that I really notice an improvement in, makes my Triumph Trident run like a watch, cheapest place is http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/
Regarding the original question.
I had a Triumph 500 twin motorbike that I ran without a battery, just a couple of capacitors.
I originally fitted NGKs, by the time they had done 200 miles, the bike was near impossible to start, such a weak spark produced by the one or two revolutions of a Lucas alternator, as I was on a trip and my foot was getting sore having to kick it over 40 plus times every time I needed to start it, I bought a couple of new plugs at a garage, Champions, of course those brand new plugs made it start 1st of 2nd kick again, and for the next couple of years until I sold the bike, those Champions still produced a good spark and 1st or 2nd kick starting, whereas the NGKs only managed the 200 miles.
(They were the same heat range before anybody asks).
It's strange how peoples experiences differ I fitted iridium plugs to my Bonneville T140v and my 2000 spacewagon both became difficult to start and devoloped a misfire replaced them with Champions in the bike and NGK's in the car My conclusion was iridium was find in modern ignition systems but does not work well in old systems. Graham
Not that I have contributed anything technical of the Forum before, I have just logged on to post a question to the 'gurus', about coils and ballast resisters and noticed this thread on plugs and thought I would throw in my 'ha'penny worth'. Dozens of Stag owners have always said to me "always use NGK plugs in any car, not least the Stag!" So I have. The ones recommended have been BP6ES. As another guide the Subaru race/rally tuning engineer I use for my Outback also swears by NGK for all his tuning development work and uses nothing else.
However, very recently this came up in discussion on the Mercedes-Benz club Forum and their chairman said that he was having running and starting issues on his w116 6.9 litre car. A technical guru in that club advised he switch to BP5ES not the 6ES as they run hotter and it subsequently resolved his running issues. A fellow Stag owner friend of mine, who also ran w116 3.5 V8, was also having starting problems with his Merc so he too switched, it also solved his issues. So I checked the NGK website to see which plugs they recommend for the Stag - it is definately quoted as BP5ES, not the BP6ES, I have always been advised to use.
Which brings me to that similar issue I wish to raise with members. On occasions where I drop to third gear and 'boot' the throttle to overtake a truck on a hill say, my Stag accelerates fine until it get to around 5000 rpm, then it starts to 'cough' and splutter. Under normal driving with 'spirited' acceleration I have no robelms until it gets to the upper rev range. My car has recently been on a rolling road for tuning and running checks (comforting to learn that it achieves 170lbs torque still and 158 bhp as it has all the usual mods plus tubular manifolds). However, when it reached around 5000 revs it loses power. The engineer said that it was probably simply plugs, knowing that the leads and cap were recently changed by me. Also the Luminition kit was working fine and he suggested I fit new plugs...which I did. But I still have the loss of power in the upper rev range. On the run back from Gaydon on the Fosse Way, it kept doing it and was bugging me no end. I then thought that maybe my coil needs changing and improving. It is an AC Delco without any marking for model or type. My Stag is a Mk 1 1/2 with a Mk I engine. It does not have a ballast resister fitted, so I am assuming it has Mk II wiring (early '73 model), despite having been restored with a Mk I engine in it's earlier life prior to my purchase. It was a nut and bolt resto in 1989. and was garaged unused for around 8 years following the death of it's owner after resto. until I purchased it in 2002.
I have been carrying a new Lucas Sport coil (DLB105) as an emergency spare for years and thought I would fir this, until I checked the interent and found that this is not recommended for Stags. So my long-winded question is...What coil do the Stag experts recommend and should I fit a separate ballast resister? Also is it the opion that I am on the right track in solving my problem? Thanks
In your place, I would be checking for: 1: adequate fuel flow and pressure, and check for blocked fuel filter/collapsed fuel pipes. 2: Ignition timing and the ignition advance retard mechanism, and advance curve, 3: plugs, and in particular excessively large plug gaps. Do some searching here as there are some good recent explanations about how to establish what ballasting system and thence coil you need.
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