Rupert is pressurising its cooling system! Bugger

[richardthestag]

HELP!

Anyone recommend an engineering shop in high Wycombe.

I tried drilling but bottled it.

Fed up with Stag being off the road.

Engine block is coming out today

Cheers

[richardthestag]

engine is out

IMAG0867.jpg

Tomorrow clean it and tape up all the holes and find a shop who can pull those damn studs out.

Would be nice to be able to use it this summer

[wilf]

Don't give up, it WILL get better.

[richardthestag]

Don't give up, it WILL get better.

never give up! never surrender!

I hope to get it running again for minimal outlay. Mrs Tstag is already grumbling and I am getting in for £300+ on a HGF. Bargain I say against £1300 on a clutch for her modern family car.

[new to this]

Richard

ive used a guy in park royal tru tyres ( forget the name its a bit odd but hes ok )he welded up a head for me and fitted new valve guides

dave

[mike@thenook]

engine is out

[ATTACH=CONFIG]22970[/ATTACH]

Tomorrow clean it and tape up all the holes and find a shop who can pull those damn studs out.

Would be nice to be able to use it this summer

Hi Richard,

Come in a bit late on this but is it a stud and bolt left in the block that you cant remove? I had the same problem on mine having sawn through one to get the head off - I drilled the remains out of the block using another stud as a guide for the drill. If you drill small and gradually use bigger you get to the point where you can chisel out with a small screwdriver the remainder of the stud/bolt.
If the bolts are in the head and you cant get them out I have a press you are welcome to use to do the job and it will but I'm a pretty long way away...

As Wilf says, it will get better but this is as difficult as it can get!

[richardthestag]

Hi all

Thanks for the offer Mike, studs dropped out of the heads but are seized in the block, one bolt one stud. They are getting tough because of the welding action. I am scared to drill and machine shop has quoted a reasonable offer to do the job for me. Heads need a lightest touch on the skim front anyway

Block is now stripped and ready to go to machine shop tomorrow.

One question though, wear to main bearings, noticeable wear to the main journals, can just feel the groves with my finger nail. the dark bit (oil channel) definitely sits proud. the bearings themselves are all +10 and have a nice overall matt grey finish. no grooves, nothing nasty.

IMAG0928.jpg

This was a rimmer "tuftrided" crack and bearing set installed 17 years and 30k miles ago. Thought the idea was that the bearings took the punishment and not the crank.
I was thinking about slapping a new set of +10 bearings in across the crank but am thinking this is more than a polish job.

[richardthestag]

Block and heads in machine shop for attention. Ready next week

Crank needs a grind!!!!

Bought from the brothers 1996 by me. Advertised as hardened. Standard thrust washers, big ends and mains on 10thou. Cushty, or so i thought. 30k miles later and crank shows no signs at all of any hardening, engineer agreed no hardening. All shells a in good shape, nice even wear across their surface and plenty of meat left on them. Crank journals are all scored, oilways and big end journals show significant wear, it would be as new again with a 10th shave and set of bearings but ffs. I

I serious doubt any action from the brothers and after 17 years i am not sure i would expect it.

Machine shop can deal with the crank but not harden it! Do i swap it for another hardened complete with shells for about the same as the machining work on my original? No brainer really

I am most annoyed that hgf is rapidly turning into a full scale rebuild becaus of crappy products and non existent quality control. Studs and bolts were also new 17 years ago for the last rebuild, some of the bolts have serious corrosion and obviously one of the blighters snapped off - the reason that a one day job is a month of effort in and still going.

Still at least i wont have to worry about sunburn driving around this glouiously sunny weekend.

[new to this]

good luck with the rebuild, hope it goes back ok

dave

[richardthestag]

Got block back from machine shop yesterday, they had serious problems with both broken stud which had to be spark eroded out and the broken bolt which was drilled.

Anyway, crank is back in, standard thrust washers seem to do the job, need to get a new set of piston rings then they can go back in. Hopefully on the home run.

Question when i come to refit the block to the engine bay, i had a struggle getting the block off the gearbox input shaft, the crossmember seems to get in the way, any of you experts got neat tricks for putting the engine back in with a man o/d box already in the car?

I may need to loosen the crossmember And drop it out of the way, maybe

Rgs

[flying farmer]

I have only once tried it without dropping the crossmember and I wouldn't try again. Provided the bolts come out ok it makes the whole job a lot simpler.

Neil

[richardthestag]

Sounds like a plan then. Cheers neil

[stag8manod]

Hi, The head studs/bolts are 7/16 UNC and inlet manifold is 5/16 UNC. Cheers Ian A

[richardthestag]

Cheers ian

Found that info in the triumph workshop manual already, spent today chasing threads out and putting it back together again.

Happy days