It's amazing how some of the most basic information can be missed out of official manuals, and even if you ring someone used to doing the job, it's one of those things that is so basic, no-one remembers when put on the spot.
I needed to remove my Viscous Fan unit as it was making noises of the impending doom kind. Naturally I didn't want my nice new 4 core radiator ruined, and with the Kenlowe fitted, the VF unit does very little anyway. Still, if you want to fit a new VF unit you'll have to get the old one off first.
OK, I can undo a bolt, but which way? Many cars of the 70's era had left hand threaded bolts holding the viscous unit on, and I didn't want to be battering away at a thread that I was actually damaging. There is no marking to give clues on the bolt head (With things Gas, LH threads have a groove turned in the hexagon for identification, see Acetlylene and Propane Gauges)).
I did manage to get all the info. I needed by using several searches and reading a lot of threads (thanks to this forum) and I thought it a good idea to collate all the info., put it in one easy to search for thread for others in the future. Here it is;
1. Remove Radiator depending on the space in front of the bolt. You have a meaty socket and bar to get in.
2. The bolt hex. size is 24mm or more correctly 15/16" and it's best to use a 6 point hexagonal socket, not a 12 point. I avoided using spanner due to the torque required, and extending that spanner with trickery is risky if it all falls apart with the rad. still in place.
3. The bolt thread is normal, right hand. Standing facing the fan, that is anti-clockwise to undo it.
4. It is best to use the longest breaker bar you can find to undo the bolt.
5. You really do need a medium sized Stilson with effective (not worn) teeth to stop the crank turning whilst undoing the bolt, This can be used on the smooth portion just behind the pulley. It works perfectly.
6. You can always tell when someone has been watching 'Wheeler Dealers' as they refer to using a 'Windy Gun' like Mr China.
I tried my air wrench but It didn't work for me.
7. When replacing the bolt, torque to 120 lbs/ft (thanks Tanya!)
As I'm now running with no VF I made a spacer (Jaguar seat runner jack-up collar about 1.5" OD, bored to suit and clear the bolt) because I was concerned that the original bolt would bottom out without the fan fitted. This spacer is the same length as would have been occupied by the VF unit central boss, so all is well once more with the bolt tight. As to whether I'll be OK with no VF, just the Kenlowe, only time will tell.
Thanks to all involved for making this info. available for me to simply collate.
Regards
Steve
I needed to remove my Viscous Fan unit as it was making noises of the impending doom kind. Naturally I didn't want my nice new 4 core radiator ruined, and with the Kenlowe fitted, the VF unit does very little anyway. Still, if you want to fit a new VF unit you'll have to get the old one off first.
OK, I can undo a bolt, but which way? Many cars of the 70's era had left hand threaded bolts holding the viscous unit on, and I didn't want to be battering away at a thread that I was actually damaging. There is no marking to give clues on the bolt head (With things Gas, LH threads have a groove turned in the hexagon for identification, see Acetlylene and Propane Gauges)).
I did manage to get all the info. I needed by using several searches and reading a lot of threads (thanks to this forum) and I thought it a good idea to collate all the info., put it in one easy to search for thread for others in the future. Here it is;
1. Remove Radiator depending on the space in front of the bolt. You have a meaty socket and bar to get in.
2. The bolt hex. size is 24mm or more correctly 15/16" and it's best to use a 6 point hexagonal socket, not a 12 point. I avoided using spanner due to the torque required, and extending that spanner with trickery is risky if it all falls apart with the rad. still in place.
3. The bolt thread is normal, right hand. Standing facing the fan, that is anti-clockwise to undo it.
4. It is best to use the longest breaker bar you can find to undo the bolt.
5. You really do need a medium sized Stilson with effective (not worn) teeth to stop the crank turning whilst undoing the bolt, This can be used on the smooth portion just behind the pulley. It works perfectly.
6. You can always tell when someone has been watching 'Wheeler Dealers' as they refer to using a 'Windy Gun' like Mr China.
I tried my air wrench but It didn't work for me.7. When replacing the bolt, torque to 120 lbs/ft (thanks Tanya!)
As I'm now running with no VF I made a spacer (Jaguar seat runner jack-up collar about 1.5" OD, bored to suit and clear the bolt) because I was concerned that the original bolt would bottom out without the fan fitted. This spacer is the same length as would have been occupied by the VF unit central boss, so all is well once more with the bolt tight. As to whether I'll be OK with no VF, just the Kenlowe, only time will tell.
Thanks to all involved for making this info. available for me to simply collate.
Regards
Steve
Just need to borrow a pipe wrench off someone now to get that done.
)
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