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    Best engine temperature?

    Some advice please.

    One of my previous threads details my water pump solution. I've now got a new Tony Hart SuperGill and a Davies Craig 115 electric water pump. It has a dual controller which also switches an electric fan on (viscous fan now removed).

    With the controller I can choose the target temperature. From 75 upwards in 5 degree increments.

    It's currently set at 75 and it manages to keep it just about there but the fan is running quite a lot of the time even when cruising at 70. At 75 the OEM temp gauge is dead centre.

    I could set the controller for a higher figure and would then presume it wouldn't be working so hard all the time. However what would be the optimum temperature for it to run at? What are the pros and cons of different settings?

    With the controller I can see what is going on as it's mounted in the glove box. It displays the running temperature and fan activity.

    Anyone's thoughts would be appreciated.

    Thanks

    Chris

    (1971 Mk I and very leaky).

    #2
    I set mine at 85 degrees. Where your needle hangs depends on the gauge temp sensor. The LD parts one hangs vertically at 90 degrees. 75 is too cool.

    John.

    Comment


      #3
      i have mine set at 95, bout half way on my gauge, i dont think it's ever come on, oh yeah once with heatsoak after a sprited drive down the A38, soon went off though

      Alan

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        #4
        About 90 is good Chris, much less and the thermostat won't open, use an 88 degree one. Martin.

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          #5
          Thanks for that. I'll set it higher - probably 85. It'll be a distraction while I set up the new hood release cables this weekend - I'm thinking that might not be fun!

          I didn't think that the fan should be on as much as it is but it's testament to how efficient the new system is that it can keep it down to 75. I'm glad I went this way having seen horror stories of water pump failures.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by martin View Post
            About 90 is good Chris, much less and the thermostat won't open, use an 88 degree one. Martin.
            My thermostat is now redundant. We took it out as the EWP effectively does the job.

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              #7
              Just to clarify, the set point for my water pump is 85 degrees, the fan is 95. Fan rarely comes on.

              Comment


                #8
                In my Dolly Sprint with an EWP and Dual controller I set it to work at 85 degrees. If I am honest, 90 degrees was a better temp and on either the car only brought the fan in on a warm day when it had been idling for quite some time. That was on a refurbished cooling system (none of my friend's Slant 4 Dollies (a Sprint and an 1850) ran as cool or at least as controlled.

                I have to ask though (although everyone has their methods of doing things ) did you blank off the Bypass hose and are you still running an thermostat (in the Sprint, the Bypass was blocked off with the thermostat taken out).

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by ChasR View Post
                  In my Dolly Sprint with an EWP and Dual controller I set it to work at 85 degrees. If I am honest, 90 degrees was a better temp and on either the car only brought the fan in on a warm day when it had been idling for quite some time. That was on a refurbished cooling system (none of my friend's Slant 4 Dollies (a Sprint and an 1850) ran as cool or at least as controlled.

                  I have to ask though (although everyone has their methods of doing things ) did you blank off the Bypass hose and are you still running an thermostat (in the Sprint, the Bypass was blocked off with the thermostat taken out).
                  As Chas says if you don't blank off the bypass when you remove the stat you defeat the object by feeding hot water back into the block.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The idea of an up to date, unified electric pump and fan combination is very interesting. I've read about a lot of mod.s over the past couple of months but not this one. Can anyone give me details of where to get it, how much it costs etc?

                    Regards

                    Steve
                    TV8, LPG, EEWP, HiD's, ZF 4, 15" Minilites, SS Bumpers & Exhaust, BMW Servo & Master, Rilsan.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I think it's EWP electric water pump you need to google.
                      Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Most interesting. I was thinking to go exactly this route for cooling my Stag, when the time comes. Paul :-)
                        1975 Triumph Stag long term restoration project, TV8, MOD

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Stagsongas View Post
                          The idea of an up to date, unified electric pump and fan combination is very interesting. I've read about a lot of mod.s over the past couple of months but not this one. Can anyone give me details of where to get it, how much it costs etc?

                          Regards

                          Steve
                          Hi Steve,

                          What you are looking out for is a Davis Craig EWP & Fan controller although the fan and pump are separate items. Wards sell a kit to allow you to convert your car to run it complete with hoses etc. However, a certain Midlands member IIRC may have a full kit ready to go which he may sell or keep for a rainy day.



                          ATM I have a spare controller which I plan to 'trick' into thinking an EWP is there (using the Davis Craig instructions) and using it as a fan controller/temperature gauge (after all, it will be taking the temperature from the top hose). I should in theory also gain a temperature gauge giving the temperature of both heads, and not just the one.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Dear All,

                            Very interesting, thanks.

                            ChasR,

                            I'd be interested in a PM from anyone with a kit they might sell? I'll ping Wards too.

                            I did my first real run of about 50 miles in warm weather yesterday (top down!). Once or twice I felt the need to run the heater when in traffic, just in case. Kenlowe was earning his corn for sure, it is reassuring to hear it run, but worrying at the same time.

                            I've not given much thought to coolant temps for years, not had to, save this problem I had with an X350


                            All in all, I think it's time to get a nice uniform approach to engine cooling. Mechanical water pumps are quite ignorant, although they persist in many new car designs and any thermostat has the potential to stick closed. Getting rid of both and replacing them with a coherent coolant management system is very attractive.

                            When you start an engine from cold, you want it to warm up ASAP, the theromostat is there to help with that but it's a sticking plaster approach - the real problem is that you are running a mechanical circulation pump that you don't need or want at that time!

                            Just as a PS, does the original mehchanical Water Pump get removed when this system is fitted?

                            Regards

                            Steve
                            TV8, LPG, EEWP, HiD's, ZF 4, 15" Minilites, SS Bumpers & Exhaust, BMW Servo & Master, Rilsan.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Mechanical pump is removed and replaced with a brass bung with either the electric or belt drive pump.

                              I have an electric pump without a controller on my Stag engined TR, that retains its thermostat and has a good heater.

                              My Rover V8 engined Toledo has an electric pump with controller and no thermostat and a crap heater. The real problem is that the pump only runs for one third of the time in low temperatures (ie Winter), then increases to 2/3 or full time with increasing temperature. I also have to rely on a mechanical switch for the cooling fan as that feature has ceased to function on the controller.

                              Neil
                              Neil
                              TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

                              Comment

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