Greetings to all Stag collectives. I'm a fully fledged member again and back on the Forum. Funds were xtremely low due to work being very slack has meant the Stag had to come first but after a winter of recon rack, sump off and repaint, front cross member off and repaint, re poly bushed, track rod ends, bottom ball joints, brake calipers stripped and re build, new (bargain eBay) discs and wheel bearings and last but no means least I've stopped the oil leak from the oil pump. All done by me in my single garage. Phew no wonder it took all winter. She looks nice and shiny underneath now. Just a quick thank you for all of your posts while I was offline. Although I couldn't see any pics or repost viewing the forum was a great help, looking at past posts and questions and answers was invaluable. She even passed her mot (second visit) due to headlight misalignment, GRR. Thanks again guys.
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Originally posted by Seaking View PostP.S JULIAN how the hell you manage to heat the outside when you work on yours do you have heated overalls.??///
Do you mean how do I work on the car outside ? Simples ! Luckily I don't really feel the cold and now I've got a marquee over my car I'm not really troubled by the rain either
Cheers
Julian
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Originally posted by stagmuffin View Postwelcome back mate , glad you got your priorities sorted and fixed the animal first. we need some pics now
steve
Outside Garage.jpgRefurb front disc cover.jpgRefurb front offside.jpgRefurb front.jpgRefurb front2.jpg
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Originally posted by Dan stag View PostThat leads me to a question how on earth do you torque the bottom ball joint nut as the angles prevent you getting a socket onto it?
You're right, there is no space to get a socket and torque wrench on there.
Two or three thoughts: Of course it needs to be done up properly but the design means that it is unlikely to come loose or undone, especially as it is a nylock nut.
If you want it to be absolutely correct, you could get a spanner and a spring weighing balance. If you put the weighing balance, say, one foot from the centre of the nut, then pull it until it reads between 35 and 50 lbs then the nut will be tightened to the correct 35-50 lbf ft. If you can only put the balance at, say, six inches, then pull it to 70/100 lbs.
On the other hand, if there's another similar bolt that you can torque up to that setting, you should be able to get a reasonable feel for how tight it is and then just tighten your ball joint by hand to a similar feel - it won't be far adrift. Besides, the Triumph permitted tolerance is pretty large.
Your suspension is looking great - reminds me what mine was like two years ago
Cheers
Julian
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Common sense was the order of the day, often the best way in my opinion. Just a point to make about the disc covers for anyone doing the same job. When I reassembled my front hubs the covers were not rubbing when I spun the wheels to check and were missing by an even amount all round. When I had my first test drive, about a mile from home there was one almighty smack sound then a spine tingling grinding graunching noise which worried me a lot. After limping home and jacking her up I found the disc cover to be touching the disc, by quite a margin, my conclusion was that when the cover got warm because of its concave shape at the top it changed shape slightly and lead to it bending itself onto the disc. Just thought Id mention it.
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