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**milothedog** · 26 June 2013, 18:56

Originally posted by Don Maxwell View Post

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The pic on the right is my new drive shaft. The one on the left is the old one from the other side that I replaced last year. The old one's wheel flange is 11.13 mm thick and the new one is 4 mm, but it has countersunk bosses for the wheel studs and this gives an overall "thickness" of 10.5 mm. The rest of the drive shaft looks the same as the old one. The supplier says all his stock are the thin ones. The one I put in last year had the thick flange.

I just hope that there is sufficient clearance within the wheel nuts to take up the increase in the length that the wheel studs will protrude from the flange.

It seems odd that there is such a difference in wheel flange size and I am wondering if I had the right part for the job.

I would appreciate any advice before I start taking the existing one off.

Thanks.

That looks like one of the re manufactured wheel studs, I had this and was told by the supplier you just need to cut them down. So I did only to find that the thread wasn't run down them enough to pull the wheel tight on the hub flange

. I sent them back and sourced some good S/H ones.

Ian

**Guest** · 28 June 2013, 17:52

The fact that the studs might me too long was/is a worry, but they look the same length as the old ones in the pic. However, I am more worried that this might not be the correct Stag part, bearing in mind the difference in thickness of the wheel flange.

Anyone know?

**iani** · 28 June 2013, 18:28

The new one looks more like a Mk1 2000 driveshaft with a Nyloc on it, I had one of these come off on a 2000 I had, Triumph changed to a castellated nut on the Mk2's for good reason.

**Guest** · 28 June 2013, 19:52

Now I'm more worried! I will go and have a look at that nut. I still have suspect that this is not a Stag part.

**redstag** · 29 June 2013, 11:38

Hi Don,

I think the one on the left is a new repro part and the one on the right is an original.

Pete

**Westfaling** · 29 June 2013, 22:34

The stud on the right hand one hasn't pulled in enough to the flange. Hopefully it will when tightened up by the wheel nut. Otherwise the wheel nut won't tighten. It looks like it's a bit long too the nut might bottom out before tightening. If I remember correctly the rear wheels have the longer studs so It's probably not that.
Nick

**redstag** · 30 June 2013, 00:34

Hi Don,

This is a picture of a Rimmers new repro flange. You can see that it is machined to a single thickness rather than having the varying thicknesses of the original casting as per the second picture (again from Rimmers). Looks like you have the right parts, just made differently although I do not know why they specify the new flange as a 'steel wheel fitment'. Whether you get a nyloc nut or a castellated nut will just depend on the core stock the reconditioner has available.

Like Ian I have had problems with the new studs as well and only use good original used ones now.

Pete

**Guest** · 30 June 2013, 09:28

Thanks to all. I will now go ahead and fit the shaft. I tapped out one of the studs from the old flange and it is slightly longer than the new one, but with a longer chamfer, so overall it will prodrude less. I think I will fit the old studs and put the new ones into the squirrel store. I will do a test first to see if the wheel nut has enough room inside to tighten up properly on the refubished hub. If it does bottom out, I suppose T'll just grind a bit off the studs.

It looks as if my car is fitted with the Rimmers new repro flanges, so this is not the first drive shaft change in the car's lifetime.

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