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    Ignition Timing

    Hi all.

    I am trying to correctly set up my engine and ignition timing and i am struggling a bit!!

    I have luminition electronic ignition fitted and after setting up the the engine timing on no2 cylinder and at 12 degrees BTDC and making sure the distiibuter is pointing to the No2 cylinder on the ignition stroke. I then fire up the car and as I rotate the dizzy anitclockwise it sounds pretty good but on road test it seems lacking in the lower revs and takes a little time to pick up speed.

    The thing that concerns me is that when I put a timing light on and with the vacuum pipe off I rotate the dizzy back to align the the pulley marks to TDC and the engine sounds as rough as though misfiring and I getpops from the carbs. I have tried compensating by adjusting tickover but after hearing that there are up to 12 places to refit the dizzy into how can you be sure you are exactly correct.

    Also has anyone got a picture of their dizzy cap showing the correct position of the leads in relation to the coil as mine are in the right firing order but perhaps in the wrong position?

    One last thing on a slightly different note what are the benefits of fitting a header tank as I have not seen the article in the club mag

    With regards,

    Paul

    #2
    imported post

    Hi all I would really like some advice on timing the engine so I would be grateful for any input

    Cheers

    Comment


      #3
      imported post

      riber3 wrote:
      The thing that concerns me is that when I put a timing light on and with the vacuum pipe off I rotate the dizzy back to align the the pulley marks to TDC and the engine sounds as rough as though misfiring and I getpops from the carbs. I have tried compensating by adjusting tickover but after hearing that there are up to 12 places to refit the dizzy into how can you be sure you are exactly correct.
      Paul,

      I think this is your problem. Why are you trying to rotate the dizy back to align the timing marks at TDC? The timing light should show the mark on the pulley in line with the 12 degree BTC position. If you align the pulley timing mark with TDC then you are setting the engine up at TDC not 12 degrees before TDC.

      Dave
      Dave
      1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

      Comment


        #4
        imported post

        You haven't got a timing light with an adjustable advance setting, have you? This can cause confusion to those not used to them, so if you have, set the advance dial to zero and just align to 12 deg as normal with the vac off and plugged.

        Russ:dude:

        Comment


          #5
          imported post

          kryten wrote:
          You haven't got a timing light with an adjustable advance setting, have you? This can cause confusion to those not used to them, so if you have, set the advance dial to zero and just align to 12 deg as normal with the vac off and plugged.

          Russ:dude:
          I am a muppet Russ is right I haven;t got an adjustable dial on my light and I forgot myself so will now set it up properly!!! Thanks Dave. Before I go though can you tell me the benefits of installing a header tank or what mag issue it was discussed in?

          Paul

          Comment


            #6
            imported post

            Paul,

            There is a wealth of information and opinion on here about header tanks. Use the search facility and you will find it.

            Basically, the design of the engine, with the water pump high up in th eblock, means that any shortage of water and the pump will cavitate and be ineffective. By installing a header tank (and there are various options) you can provide a reservoir of water above the pump. If this header tank is fitted with a level switch you can be warned of any loss of coolant before it gets to the stage of doing damage.

            Some have used Mercedes headers, others have used them from the TR7, but this doesn't have a level switch as standard. I used one from a Volvo, and it was this that was described in the May 2008 magazine. This was in my previous Stag. As yet I haven't got around to fitting it to my current Stag.

            Idealy you wouldwant to modify the radiator with additional connections to improve the set up I had.

            Dave
            Dave
            1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

            Comment


              #7
              imported post

              Dave,

              thanks for the info, I did read up a lot about the various ones members had fitted last night but I didn't realise that it was you car that was featured so I will check my mag later. The point I was looking which you explained is regarding the cavitate of the water pump.

              Paul

              Comment

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