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    #16
    Originally posted by StagnJag View Post
    Ah, yes I thought you were talking about the main radiator! Doh!

    Sorry!

    Time I went to bed!

    Dave

    Forgiven.

    G'Nite Dave.

    Steve
    TV8, LPG, EEWP, HiD's, ZF 4, 15" Minilites, SS Bumpers & Exhaust, BMW Servo & Master, Rilsan.

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by Stagsongas View Post
      That depends on the amount of air. Seen it too many times to be convinced otherwise, but the overall point is not to get it trapped at the top of the rad. at all. That is avoided by the exit flow being connected at the top, not the bottom. The same goes for the heater matrix, it is just another radiator.

      Regards

      Steve
      I like a good discussion, It's connected to the bottom of the matrix /rad because hot water rises through the matrix/rad pushing cooler water and air in front of it. If you connect the hoses the other way round it will still work, I know this because the PO did just that. As far as trapped air in the rad goes you have one up on me there, x plummer fitted many c/h systems and I have never seen a rad not circulating even when when it's been newly commisioned and the rad has been half full with air.

      Comment


        #18
        'I like a good discussion, It's connected to the bottom of the matrix /rad because hot water rises through the matrix/rad pushing cooler water and air in front of it'

        Which is precisely what I wrote, in different words. Good advice given, endorsed by your repetition.

        Just about every week we have a car brought in with an LPG system installed elswhere, but not working properly. Many of the problems are due to the vaporiser not being plumbed into the car's coolant system correctly. Even in +30C conditions we have this last few days, the vaporiser will freeze up if not properly heated, as the temp drop inside the unit can be 40C or more due to the vaporisation of the liquid LPG.

        When I see a frozen vaporiser it's a simple matter to prove that coolant is not circulating, and it isn't circulating because of the air trapped at the top. Often, if the air is bled off by letting it out at the top, circulation will commence, but that is not a permanent solution as any more air that gets into the car's coolant system in the future can be similarly trapped, cutting off circulation.

        At this point it should be noted that the vaporiser is no different to a radiator in a house or a heater matrix in a car. If you want to come and see the effect at work, then you are welcome.

        Once the plumbing is re-arranged so that the supply goes in at the bottom and the exit is at the top, self-bleeding circulation is established and it all miraculously begins to work just fine. Curious that I don't appear to have any idea what I'm talking about, but manage to get it right every time.

        Regards

        Steve
        TV8, LPG, EEWP, HiD's, ZF 4, 15" Minilites, SS Bumpers & Exhaust, BMW Servo & Master, Rilsan.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by Stagsongas View Post
          'I like a good discussion, It's connected to the bottom of the matrix /rad because hot water rises through the matrix/rad pushing cooler water and air in front of it'

          Which is precisely what I wrote, in different words. Good advice given, endorsed by your repetition.

          Just about every week we have a car brought in with an LPG system installed elswhere, but not working properly. Many of the problems are due to the vaporiser not being plumbed into the car's coolant system correctly. Even in +30C conditions we have this last few days, the vaporiser will freeze up if not properly heated, as the temp drop inside the unit can be 40C or more due to the vaporisation of the liquid LPG.

          When I see a frozen vaporiser it's a simple matter to prove that coolant is not circulating, and it isn't circulating because of the air trapped at the top. Often, if the air is bled off by letting it out at the top, circulation will commence, but that is not a permanent solution as any more air that gets into the car's coolant system in the future can be similarly trapped, cutting off circulation.

          At this point it should be noted that the vaporiser is no different to a radiator in a house or a heater matrix in a car. If you want to come and see the effect at work, then you are welcome.

          Once the plumbing is re-arranged so that the supply goes in at the bottom and the exit is at the top, self-bleeding circulation is established and it all miraculously begins to work just fine. Curious that I don't appear to have any idea what I'm talking about, but manage to get it right every time.

          Regards

          Steve
          Sorry did I say you did.nt know what you are talking about I was shareing my experience's as you are. Now I have just looked at my other vehicle Hyundi Santamo=to Mitsubishi Spacewagon where the heater hose from the back of the stat housing goes to the TOP of the matrix and the return from the BOTTOM of the matrix goes to the bottom hose. ( I have never had air trapped in the heater and has allways funtioned correctly) So you are saying that the manufactures have got that wrong. Once again in my experience I have never seen a c/h rad with a core made up from tubes ( unless it's fan assisted) which air does readily get trapped in. So once again in my experience a car rad and a c/h are very different, and as for traveling 2000+ miles to look at a radatior I think I'll pass on that one but thank you for the offer. I am finished now ( I don't care that much and I'am in fear of taking my own life) also I don't want it to become personal Graham

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