Used Engine Oil.

[Jeff]

Has anyone used or thought of using their old engine oil inside the doors, arches etc., as a rust prohibitor/protector.

Always good in engine bay where oil has leaked.

Just needs to be heated slightly so will run better, then about 20 blankets on top of cardboard on top of plastic sheet and 50 weeks to allow drainage and good to go.

No seriously, anyone?

Jeff.

[Wendy]

No, but I do use diff oil to rust-proof the underside of the boot... :-/

[Staggard]

The PO used it on my car and sprayed it everywhere so much so you could not get near it without getting smotherd I had to get it steam cleaned before I brought it home. Because of the higher temptures over here oil still run's out of the chassie members ( after 3 years )when it get's very hot. UPSIDE not a hint of rust anywhere

[martin]

I used to know a guy with a '54 Beetle, who every year, filled the sills with it, yes, filled, drove it round for two weeks then drained it, he had three holes in each sill with rubber plugs to facilitate, in the early eighties the car was spotless, it did smell a bit though. He had the most memorable name, Eldred Oickle. It used to be a common practice to hand spray the undersides of cars, especially cart spring leaves and shackles, then it was discovered that it's carcinogenic, and the practice promptly stopped. On balance, I wouldn't use it, loads of good waxes about, (eg Dynax 50) Martin.

[Jeff]

I used to know a guy with a '54 Beetle, who every year, filled the sills with it, yes, filled, drove it round for two weeks then drained it, he had three holes in each sill with rubber plugs to facilitate, in the early eighties the car was spotless, it did smell a bit though. He had the most memorable name, Eldred Oickle. It used to be a common practice to hand spray the undersides of cars, especially cart spring leaves and shackles, then it was discovered that it's carcinogenic, and the practice promptly stopped. On balance, I wouldn't use it, loads of good waxes about, (eg Dynax 50) Martin.

Good point Martin about the cancer risk but I think that's only if it permiates the skin by touch, but not being an expert I don't know if it is absorbed through the lungs, certainly not worth taking the risk.

Main reason for suggestion is that it's free, sort of, unlike the other products.

How are you by the way?

Jeff.

[martin]

Hi Jeff, still vertical, thank you for asking.
Couldn't agree more, about it being free, but it's absorbed through the skin, that's why mechanics now all have to wear gloves, and I'm chicken. Martin.

[ChasR]

Some people these days try to mix oil with waxes to make the waxes more 'runny'. However, there are a number of good cavity waxes present in the market now, especially those by Bilt Hamber .

[StagnJag]

Hi Jeff, still vertical, thank you for asking.
Couldn't agree more, about it being free, but it's absorbed through the skin, that's why mechanics now all have to wear gloves, and I'm chicken. Martin.

The Viagra's working then!

Anon.

[martin]

The Viagra's working then!

Anon.

If only !

[flying farmer]

I have always used engine oil in the doors, wheel arches and everwhere else double skinned and to be honest I don't think there is any rustproofer to touch it as it creeps everywhere. The TR5's chassis gets a squirt every year and it has been on the road 21 years since I rebuilt it including many years as my only car averaging 12000 miles a year in those days and not garaged. Still no sign of chassis rust, and I can guarantee no wax will beat that as eventually rust gets behind them and lifts them off the metal.

I had an epic fail with Waxoil in my Dolomite sills years ago, I literally filled the sills with it then drained out the surplus, but about 6 years later rust came through as the rust had lifted the waxoil.

Compare this to my PI saloon twenty years ago, I squirted oil into the doors when I got it and resprayed it. Several years later it needed doing again due to the paint crazing. I stripped the car back to its original factory paint (very sharp chisel and soft primer filler), to find a little plug of filler in every doorskin, and despite several years of daily use rust had never lifted the filler. Became a firm believer in the properties of engine oil from that point, though I must admit I tend to use fresh oil these days as very little is needed for a top up.

I am using proper Dinotrol cavity wax on my Project Stag, it will be the only car I own that will not be oozing oil from every seam. I just hope I am doing the right thing!

Neil